What is this, a Fiesta RST? TB Traction/Torsion bars installed.

MPA

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#61
110ft/lbs? Damn, I wonder if I could spin my torque wrench one spin past 100 to get that 110.
 


KKaWing

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#62
To get a socket and wrench in on top perhaps?
 


jayrod1980

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#64
Since you are removing and reinstalling the bolts, do they need thread locker or anything like that?
 


jeff

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#67
I just installed both bars last week but the PM brand. The rear torsion bar literally takes about 5 minutes on ramps. The front brace, from everything I read, is best installed with the car on jacks or on a lift (no weight on wheels). So that's what I did. Once you get that massive bolt out the assembly comes apart just a bit, but simply lift the wheel and push it back into place while you slip the bolt back in each side. Tighten a bit, drop the car, put it on ramps, torque to 85 ft lbs....that's what I read for the spec. About 30 minute job with proper tools.

The car is tighter. Seats hug me a bit more when hard cornering. I also installed my FMIC and stage 2 tune and come to think of it it does feel like there is a bit less wheel hop even with the new power. Maybe the bars are the reason.
 


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#68
I just installed both bars last week but the PM brand. The rear torsion bar literally takes about 5 minutes on ramps. The front brace, from everything I read, is best installed with the car on jacks or on a lift (no weight on wheels). So that's what I did. Once you get that massive bolt out the assembly comes apart just a bit, but simply lift the wheel and push it back into place while you slip the bolt back in each side. Tighten a bit, drop the car, put it on ramps, torque to 85 ft lbs....that's what I read for the spec. About 30 minute job with proper tools.
I would go retorque those bolts if you only got to 85 ft lbs. That is the seating torque which could be done with an airgun putting it back on, after that you lower it (put on blocks or a ramp) and need a torque wrench with those angle meters on it to get it to 90 degrees. Which would give you I think 110-115 ft lbs.
 


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#69
Is anyone else getting a lot of creaking with these bars installed? I get creaking at low speeds with the TB torsion bar, traction bar, trunk bar, and cross member support.
 


Sourskittle

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#71
I have lots to install. I'm pretty excited about this one. I'm also very happy they went to the current design over the "slip-fit"
 


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#72
Installed mine this morning, but haven't had a chance to really test them out. Though right off the bat the steering feels a bit stiffer but that could just be placebo.

Tips for installation of the traction bar, if you're using ramps or a lift, take one bolt out at a time instead of both like I did. Lining the subframe and A-Arm holes back together was a bit of a pain. And they're (the bolts) on there tight, I used the old breaker bar + floor jack trick to get the passenger side out, then an impact on the driver side (which for some reason wouldn't budge the passenger side).

Torsion bar was super easy, except I'm a dummy and didn't know what locknuts were and thought the bolts were too long. Only when I thought, screw it just torque it down, did I realize what they were.

I'll report back later after work and a bit of spirited driving.
 


jayrod1980

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#73
Can't say enough good things about Danny Check, the owner of TB. I had some reservations about the traction bar and clearance with my charge pipe. I think MAPerformance makes the biggest, most "in the way" hot side charge pipe. I gave him some dimensions and he felt it would fit. Well I ordered the traction bar and crossmember brace (replaces the two stock braces that aren't connected), and went with Pierce for the rear torsion bar, as I like the supported and beveled mount point better with Pierce. The advantage with TB is the low profile their design has. My shipment came with a personally signed letter which was a nice touch. The black textured paint and parts themselves were finished well and the packaging was well padded with bubble wrap. No dings or issues.

Well I installed the crossmember brace no problem but as others have said, the a arms are a bit of a pain. I used an impact to loosen the bolt enough for my breaker bar. Taking both bolts out is a no no, as it causes the holes to get out of alignment. Some of you may have read about me modifying my MAPerformance charge pipes to fit with the DHM race intercooler. I tested fitment the traction bar appeared to rub. I cut down and cleaned up my charge pipe a little more to see if it would seat a little higher into the turbo inlet. I was about to install the bar with a small corner touching the charge pipe. Unfortunately this made my car vibrate like crazy.

I let Danny know, who assured me prior that he would refund me fully if it didn't fit. Well I asked about return shipping after showing the spot where the bar rubbed. He straight up refunded me the cost of the bar with no return needed. This is a great company! I definitely wouldn't hesitate to buy from them again, and I did some observations with both parts prior to removing the traction bar. The crossbar brace alone greatly reduces flex from the front. With the traction bar added it felt like it was on rails and with no wheel hop, I felt like I lost power because it was so fuss free. I'm definitely keeping the crossbar brace.

I wanted the TB stuff to work because I feel it's much lower profile than Pierce's 4 or 6 point brace. After the fitment issue, I purchased the 2 point Pierce brace. I'm hoping it won't rub, otherwise I'm looking at replacing my charge pipe.

Bottom line, if you want to stiffen the car and reduce roll, while not compromising any real ground clearance, I'd recommend the TB traction bar and crossmember brace... At least if you don't have the MAPerformance charge pipes. TB really stands by their products and I'm keeping my eye out for future stuff simply because they have such good service... Free fast shipping too!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 


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#74
That's some great service! I always like supporting vendors like this over big corps that half the time won't even get back to you!
 


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#75
If the Pierce Motorsports 2 Point brace fits with your MAP Charge Pipe, then you could consider getting the TB 4 Point brace to complete the "6 Point" layout. I prefer the TB 4 point brace compared to Pierce's one due to the much lower profile. This is what I have now, along with Pierce's 2 Point brace, and handling is great! I also have the TB midbrace and Pierce's Strut and Torsion Bar Braces. Next would be Mishimoto's trunk brace [rockon].

I wanted the TB stuff to work because I feel it's much lower profile than Pierce's 4 or 6 point brace. After the fitment issue, I purchased the 2 point Pierce brace. I'm hoping it won't rub, otherwise I'm looking at replacing my charge pipe.

Bottom line, if you want to stiffen the car and reduce roll, while not compromising any real ground clearance, I'd recommend the TB traction bar and crossmember brace... At least if you don't have the MAPerformance charge pipes. TB really stands by their products and I'm keeping my eye out for future stuff simply because they have such good service... Free fast shipping too!
 


jayrod1980

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#76
If the Pierce Motorsports 2 Point brace fits with your MAP Charge Pipe, then you could consider getting the TB 4 Point brace to complete the "6 Point" layout. I prefer the TB 4 point brace compared to Pierce's one due to the much lower profile. This is what I have now, along with Pierce's 2 Point brace, and handling is great! I also have the TB midbrace and Pierce's Strut and Torsion Bar Braces. Next would be Mishimoto's trunk brace [rockon].
I have the TB 4 point... That's the cross brace that attaches the sub frame to the unibody, right? I love it! I wish the traction bar worked... Love the profile.
 


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#77
Yes, that's the one. I believe Pierce's 2 Point brace will fit as it definitely sits lower than TB one due to angle of the bar connection to the A-Arms. Thanks [:)]

I have the TB 4 point... That's the cross brace that attaches the sub frame to the unibody, right? I love it! I wish the traction bar worked... Love the profile.
 


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#78
I had mentioned in the other thread, which is locked, that I did not feel I needed an alignment even after stupidly removing both a-arm bolts at the same time. Well, when I got new tires put on Sat at Kauffman, they check the alignment for free. Now, I don't know for sure if my screw-up caused this, I bought it CPO so it could have been the previous owner did something, hell I could have hit something driving to cause it, or again it could have happened during my bone-headed installation screw up.



It didn't pull one way or the other, to be honest I couldn't tell you anything was wrong with it but regardless the results are the results.
 


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#79
Ordered a torsion bar and torque bar last week

Also have an RMM that should show up here shortly.

By the sounds of it the car should stick and turn alot better.

Does anyone have the torque specs for the torsion bar and Cobb RMM? I see a previous post mentioned 110lbs for the tourqe bar once the wheels are sitting on something.
 


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#80
I ordered both the 2 point traction bar and torsion bar from Pierce. The traction bar showed up today. Looks great. Silver metallic paint. Going to install that one tomorrow. I have a Quick jack and an electric impact gun so I hope it will be easy.

Installed the traction bar this afternoon. Not too bad a job using my Quickjack. The bolts were really on hard. Finally got them off with my electric impact wrench (wired). Took a short drive. Noticed that I could get on the throttle more in 1st and 2nd gears since the steering/front wheels seem more stable.
 


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