When and Where to Change Timing Belt + Cost

[jtl]

The manual should identify items that require/recommend replacement; either via Maintenance Schedule (like the timing belt) or in the course of service. For example...
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Thanks, Intuit. After looking through the service manual I added this bracket:

Bearing Retainer - Product ID: YS4Z-3N324-AA (referred to as 'the halfshaft bracket' in the service manual)

Interestingly, the service manual makes no mention of discarding either tensioner, at least not where I'm looking (2015, Timing Belt (Removal and Installation, 303-01 Engine - 1.6L EcoBoost)). The accessory belt tensioner is $85 on Tasca ($137 MSRP) and looks pretty beefy, which is why I'm questioning whether it's worth the money to replace.

Your list is good. I also had the thermostat and housing changed while everything was apart. I had my dealership do it so I'm covered under warranty for their work. No complaints so far. The mechanic has over 28yrs of engine building under his belt!

Thanks, I will grab a new thermostat while I'm at it. Was there any particular reason you had the housing changed?

Is the thermostat accessible while doing a timing belt?
Because I understand that it's very difficult and time consuming to get to, so when I have my timing belt done next summer I may consider having my thermostat changed also, thanks.

Well I can see the housing here:



It took a good amount of effort to get to this point so I can definitely see why it should be replaced at the same time as the timing belt (and water pump).



I've come this far, so I might as well give it the works!

 

[Intuit]

That jack stand on the crash bar? I don't think that's designed to support any weight. I use two points of the cross-member behind the engine.

Just providing a slightly different perspective, born of experiences with a prior vehicle. First, aftermarket parts were absolute junk. Replacing parts that weren't actually worn or bad, always backfired. It took several examples before that sunk in. For anything as important (or just hard to get to) as what you're doing, at least use the overpriced dealer parts. No remanufactured or aftermarket parts.

 

[ogminlo]

Replacing parts that weren't actually worn or bad, always backfired. It took several examples before that sunk in. For anything as important (or just hard to get to) as what you're doing, at least use the overpriced dealer parts. No remanufactured or aftermarket parts.

Yes! You're already saving thousands of dollars on labor doing the work yourself, don't try to save $75 on timing belt tensioner or water pump. That said, I didn't hesitate to install a Gates accessory belt kit a couple months back. They make excellent belts and that stuff is on the outside of the motor. If their tensioner or idler pulley doesn't last 8 years like the factory parts, I can pivot back to OE Ford in an afternoon.

It took a good amount of effort to get to this point so I can definitely see why it should be replaced at the same time as the timing belt (and water pump).

That lower radiator hose (C1BZ-8286-A) you can see the top of in your photo is also a bear to get to. Since you're draining the coolant to do the water pump and the thermostat, consider replacing that. Or at the very least clean it off and inspect it for signs of wear like little cracks forming.

 

[jtl]

That jack stand on the crash bar? I don't think that's designed to support any weight. I use two points of the cross-member behind the engine.

Just providing a slightly different perspective, born of experiences with a prior vehicle. First, aftermarket parts were absolute junk. Replacing parts that weren't actually worn or bad, always backfired. It took several examples before that sunk in. For anything as important (or just hard to get to) as what you're doing, at least use the overpriced dealer parts. No remanufactured or aftermarket parts.

That jack stand is supporting the far side of the condenser to decrease torsion on the A/C tubes. Long story short I'm trying to avoid messing with that entire system because I didn't have the refrigerant vacuumed when I started the whole thing. You can sort of see another jack stand peeking out from behind the rotor assembly.

And for better or worse (better for the car, worse for my poor wallet at least in the near term) I'm going OEM for everything (with the exception of upgrading to a Mountune radiator).

Yes! You're already saving thousands of dollars on labor doing the work yourself, don't try to save $75 on timing belt tensioner or water pump. That said, I didn't hesitate to install a Gates accessory belt kit a couple months back. They make excellent belts and that stuff is on the outside of the motor. If their tensioner or idler pulley doesn't last 8 years like the factory parts, I can pivot back to OE Ford in an afternoon.



That lower radiator hose (C1BZ-8286-A) you can see the top of in your photo is also a bear to get to. Since you're draining the coolant to do the water pump and the thermostat, consider replacing that. Or at the very least clean it off and inspect it for signs of wear like little cracks forming.

You know it's funny you put it that way. If I have to replace some of these parts in a few months after deciding I didn't want to pony up the cash now, I'd happily pay double for them to get that time back. As for the radiator hoses... 9 years and 130k miles is a good run for a hose, and I see whoosh hoses (with free shipping!) will end up costing less than OEM.


I'm drifting pretty far off topic, but thanks everyone for your help. I look forward to finishing this job in a few weeks. Maybe I'll make a thread about the whole thing.

 

[Intuit]

I didn't hesitate to install a Gates accessory belt kit a couple months back. They make excellent belts and that stuff is on the outside of the motor.

This matches my experiences as well. Back in the day, the GoodYear Gatorback accessory drive belts were good as well. Dunno if they're still sold.

 

[jtl]

I finally received all the parts for this job. I did end up going with a Gates accessory belt kit partially because it has some pretty solid reviews but mainly because I am well over budget (oops!).

I've removed the crankshaft pulley bolt but I have not been able to remove the harmonic balancer. It has four spokes and no bolt holes, so none of the pullers I have fit. The only puller I've found that looks like it might work is $185 (https://schleytools.com/products/17...pulley-puller-set?_pos=1&_sid=7a8ada61f&_ss=r).

Has anyone hear run into this before? Is there a cheaper tool or a different method for removing it?

 

[jtl]

Has anyone hear run into this before? Is there a cheaper tool or a different method for removing it?

I'll keep posting my experience here in case it helps out anyone down the road.

I was able to get the crankshaft pulley off without a puller but now I need to replace it. I was trying to pry it off at the bottom and I broke a piece off the edge. If anyone else encounters the pulley itself not coming off, don't pry it like that lol.

What did work:
I sprayed lots of penetrating oil in there. I let it sit for a while. Then I rotated the pulley clockwise. The crankshaft couldn't turn with the pulley due to the pin that is in place (Locking Tool, Crankshaft, 303-748) to keep it from rotating past TDC, and the pulley came loose.

I also used an old chisel as a wedge behind the pulley which did push it out a little bit, though I wouldn't recommend this approach because it scratched up the back of the pulley. It may have helped a little bit but the pulley did not come off until I rotated it, so I am skeptical as to how much it helped. I will note that at that point it was rotating quite easily. I initially thought I had inadvertently rotated it clockwise and out of TDC and it was just rotating back, until the pulley came off.