Why is my car running hot!? 🙃

[Blanco_ST]

Alright guys so i live in the good ol coachella valley where the weather gets to 120
My car seems to do perfectly fine when im moving but at any stops even when the ac is off my cars temp just keeps going up and up and up! Ugh i can't even run my damn ac unless its at night.
I just recently changed the thermostat which definitely helped but it didn't solve my issue when im at a stand still.
The fan kicks on and it seems to be moving air but obviously not enough right?
My car has 71,000 miles. Do yall think i need to replace the fan. im tired of this i just wanna run my A/C in comfort at a stop light

 

[the duke]

Radiator likely can't keep up. Some have this problem, other do not. Most swap in an aftermarket like the Mountune radiator and it's solved most of the cooling problems these cars can have.

 

[slopoke]

I've come across a thread referencing that the fan has a high speed mode. It may be that yours is not going into high speed mode. In the thread it says the likely culprit is the module, which isn't too much money. Good luck and keep us posted as to what solves your problem.

https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/radiator-fan-high-speed-mode-not-working.20665/

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QFnUqC20Cwg

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u0-kgf9fjeg

 

[slopoke]

I found a couple of videos that may help you go in the right direction. I posted them in my original reply to you. I also foujd the part number. It was the top series of numbers on the data sticker that was on the module. It's 940 0029 06. I did a search and found quite a few on Ebay, but could not find one at a retail or reputable online store. It must come with the fan/shroud assembly and not separate. Good luck.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2510209.m570.l1313&_nkw=940+0029+06&_sacat=0

 

[Blanco_ST]

I found a couple of videos that may help you go in the right direction. I posted them in my original reply to you. I also foujd the part number. It was the top series of numbers on the data sticker that was on the module. It's 940 0029 06. I did a search and found quite a few on Ebay, but could not find one at a retail or reputable online store. It must come with the fan/shroud assembly and not separate. Good luck.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2510209.m570.l1313&_nkw=940+0029+06&_sacat=0

Awesome, i will keep you guys updated!

 

[scooter123]

The radiator on these cars is a bit undersized. It's typical Ford move, I don't know of any automaker more willing to spend 2000 dollars to "save" 5 dollars. If you want an example of this just look an the Focus transmission fiasco, Ford estimates that will cost the company a 2 Billion Dollar write down. All because they could save a bit of money on the control system for the transmission.

The solution is a higher capacity radiator. I chose the Mountune 3 Pass Radiator and it not only keeps the car at it's ideal operating temperature it's also resulted in a 3.5 mpg GAIN in fuel economy in City driving. The only downside is that it's thicker than the OEM radiator and it moves the fan shroud closer to the engine. In my case that resulted in a cooling hose getting rubbed thru but after replacing that hose I now have that side of the fan shroud wire tied to the bracket for the AC Condenser hose on the passenger side of the shroud. I would advise anyone with this radiator to check for rubbing potential between the fan shroud and any coolant hose. Note the hose that fell victim to this is the lower hose on the coolant reservoir.

Final note. Many people try going to a lower temperature thermostat in hopes of solving overheating issues. This is a complete waste of time and money. Think about it, your engine is overheating, meaning the temperature is exceeding the 195 degrees the OEM thermostat is designed to maintain. So, with an overheat at say 240 degrees how on earth is a 180 degree thermostat going to reduce that temperature, the factory thermostat is wide open. The only solution is to increase the cooling capacity. As a stopgap measure you can set the cabin temp to MAX and turn the cabin fans to high and nurse your car home. However if you want AC you will have to change to a higher capacity radiator. I'll also note that if you want maximum efficiency from this engine the Factory thermostat is the best choice. I wasn't kidding about that 3.5 mpg gain and the reason for this gain is that in any summer condition all I see in the temperature indicator is 4 bars, never see 5 bars or any higher. Unfortunately in the winter the car is slower to warm up and as a result the City mileage drops about 3 mpg. As for power, before the wastegate got stuck open my car was traction limited in first and second gear on all season tires.

 

[Blanco_ST]

The radiator on these cars is a bit undersized. It's typical Ford move, I don't know of any automaker more willing to spend 2000 dollars to "save" 5 dollars. If you want an example of this just look an the Focus transmission fiasco, Ford estimates that will cost the company a 2 Billion Dollar write down. All because they could save a bit of money on the control system for the transmission.

The solution is a higher capacity radiator. I chose the Mountune 3 Pass Radiator and it not only keeps the car at it's ideal operating temperature it's also resulted in a 3.5 mpg GAIN in fuel economy in City driving. The only downside is that it's thicker than the OEM radiator and it moves the fan shroud closer to the engine. In my case that resulted in a cooling hose getting rubbed thru but after replacing that hose I now have that side of the fan shroud wire tied to the bracket for the AC Condenser hose on the passenger side of the shroud. I would advise anyone with this radiator to check for rubbing potential between the fan shroud and any coolant hose. Note the hose that fell victim to this is the lower hose on the coolant reservoir.

Final note. Many people try going to a lower temperature thermostat in hopes of solving overheating issues. This is a complete waste of time and money. Think about it, your engine is overheating, meaning the temperature is exceeding the 195 degrees the OEM thermostat is designed to maintain. So, with an overheat at say 240 degrees how on earth is a 180 degree thermostat going to reduce that temperature, the factory thermostat is wide open. The only solution is to increase the cooling capacity. As a stopgap measure you can set the cabin temp to MAX and turn the cabin fans to high and nurse your car home. However if you want AC you will have to change to a higher capacity radiator. I'll also note that if you want maximum efficiency from this engine the Factory thermostat is the best choice. I wasn't kidding about that 3.5 mpg gain and the reason for this gain is that in any summer condition all I see in the temperature indicator is 4 bars, never see 5 bars or any higher. Unfortunately in the winter the car is slower to warm up and as a result the City mileage drops about 3 mpg. As for power, before the wastegate got stuck open my car was traction limited in first and second gear on all season tires.

I assumed the misimoto thermostat wasn't gonna solve my problem, but it actually seemed to help me stay away from 220 where as before it would always want to creep pass 220 now i drive around at 207 sometimes hitting 214 with a/c on. I purchased a new fan module but that wasn't or the issue... i really thought there would be away around having to put a new radiator in but i thought wrong ahahaha.
Has anyone tried the whoosh motorsports radiator?? The misimoto radiator is $$$

 

[draxxus131]

Any radiator upgrade is a good idea. Even the eBay one's are decent. For better fitment though, whoosh is closer than eBay.

Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk

 

[rcnut14]

Any radiator upgrade is a good idea. Even the eBay one's are decent. For better fitment though, whoosh is closer than eBay.

Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk

Also keep in mind the whoosh is double pass, and the other name brands (mishi, mountune, koyo) are triple pass.

not saying that’s a bad thing, I actually went with the whoosh because of live in a very mild climate and I don’t want TOO much cooling

 

[Dialcaliper]

Also keep in mind the whoosh is double pass, and the other name brands (mishi, mountune, koyo) are triple pass.

not saying that’s a bad thing, I actually went with the whoosh because of live in a very mild climate and I don’t want TOO much cooling

Not knocking the Woosh radiator as they sell quality parts, but it’s not really possible to have “too much” cooling, because once the thermostat closes, coolant is no longer circulating through the radiator.

Even in very cold temperatures, the reason you have to block airflow into the engine compartment is not because of the radiator - in that case it’s because when under hood temperatures are very low, the engine block and head, filter etc shed enough heat, combined with much cooler air brought into the intake that even with the thermostat closed, an engine sometimes has a hard time coming up to normal operating temperature. Your radiator has little to no influence on the low temperature end once it is out of the loop, save a small amount of coolant mixing at the radiator outlet

As to whether you “need” the most efficient radiator you can stuff under the hood, that’s a different question.

 

[rcnut14]

Not knocking the Woosh radiator as they sell quality parts, but it’s not really possible to have “too much” cooling, because once the thermostat closes, coolant is no longer circulating through the radiator.

Even in very cold temperatures, the reason you have to block airflow into the engine compartment is not because of the radiator - in that case it’s because when under hood temperatures are very low, the engine block and head, filter etc shed enough heat, combined with much cooler air brought into the intake that even with the thermostat closed, an engine sometimes has a hard time coming up to normal operating temperature. Your radiator has little to no influence on the low temperature end once it is out of the loop, save a small amount of coolant mixing at the radiator outlet

As to whether you “need” the most efficient radiator you can stuff under the hood, that’s a different question.

I understand that, I should've been more clear: my concerns were more in the sense of warming up, especially in winter temps, and considering I don't drive very far daily. Maybe I am wrong in that? IDK

 

[Dialcaliper]

I understand that, I should've been more clear: my concerns were more in the sense of warming up, especially in winter temps, and considering I don't drive very far daily. Maybe I am wrong in that? IDK

The radiator shouldn’t have much of an effect. Coming up to temperature will take longer when it’s cold out, but as long as it comes up, everything is fine. If you’re experiencing other problems like low temperature readings, very low fuel economy or your heater not blowing hot because the coolant is too cold, that would be the time to experiment with partially blocking the front grille to reduce cold air into the engine bay, but that’s usually only a problem if you are living somewhere that it gets very cold out in the winter.

 

[Jabbit]

Also keep in mind the whoosh is double pass, and the other name brands (mishi, mountune, koyo) are triple pass.

not saying that’s a bad thing, I actually went with the whoosh because of live in a very mild climate and I don’t want TOO much cooling

Whoosh is triple pass. First batch was dual but they are all triple now.

 

[Blanco_ST]

Uhhhg whoosh is all sold out i already ordered a new one but for now im running at temps of 215 220 with no a/c on its f****** terrible. It was 114 outside yesterday. I definitely run hotter on the free way also when i slightly make my idle higher buy putting my foot on the pedal my temps seem to go down as if the slightly higher idle speed helps it cool down.