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Mountune Fiesta MRX Turbo
- Thread starter Brura22
- Start date
Performed install, and here are some notes. First I want to send out a big Thank you to eglove. He was nice enough to share some thoughts about his install which I think made a big difference for me.
Before you start, if you have any reservations about doing this yourself, if you can build a computer, you can do this install. The one thing you need more than anything else is patience. Allocate a lot of time. If something gets you stuck, walk away, think about it, and then come back. Think about everything your doing. Read the ATP instructions several times, several days before doing the install to where it is ingrained into your brain. Do not wait until its time to do the install and think your going to just read as you go. Take your time and think about everything your doing as you do it. I did not use the instructions during the install, that is how many times I read through them before the install and I was reading them almost once a day for two weeks. that way when your looking at the car, everything is familiar.
First a general complaint. If I ever find the guy who designed this turbo and decided that it was ok to put a banjo fitting on the back side of this turbo......Im just saying.
So, As I had stated, I bought a second manifold had it ceramic coated, I removed the factory turbo and manifold, installed the new manifold to the new turbo in my lap vband and all. Replaced all of the studs in the block. On the vband, you tighten until you run out of threads, this may be a known for some, for others if you overtighten it or want to know how much to tighten it, you do it till you run out of threads which is very easy to see sitting in your lap, not so much when installing under the car. eGlove will tell you if you overtighten it, it breaks.![[rofl]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_rofl.gif "ROFL [rofl]")
He saved me a lot of time. THANK YOU AGAIN. Doing it outside the car, especially if you dont have a lift is key here. Getting the vband correctly lined up to the turbo and vband bracket on the manifold is the key to the whole install. The turbo and manifold slipped right back into the car with ZERO problems. You put it in turbo air intake first pointing down about 3/4 from drivers side to passenger side just past the stud sticking up on the windshield wiper arm. It goes right in. then you have it upside down manifold laying on the cradle. Then you can install the oil return line. And I highly recommend installing the water return line that is on the engine block side of the turbo at this time. You dont have to, but if you dont, you will need to wait to install the oil return line because you will be taking that off again once the turbo is mounted to be able to tighten the water line down. Then you just flip the turbo around (lots of space), and hang the manifold on the bolts and press the manifold up to the block (Dont forget the manifold gasket), and tight the nuts down. I tightened them down until they wouldnt go any more with a ratchet and go slow as they start to tighten up. I highly recommend you not use any type of powered mechanical means to tighten. I used a 1/4 impact to break them loose. Some of the nuts came off, some brought the studs with them. Remember mine has 176,000 miles on it. I had sprayed them a day prior to removing them, but in the end it was no big deal. I bought replacements to use.
As for prepping for the install. I removed the CAI tubing. both cowls, The headlights have to be unscrewed to get to the bottom cowl bolts, but I just left them sitting in place. I did not remove the battery (not necessary). I had the rear end of the car higher than the front. While you may laugh, this prevented coolant from pouring out of the car when I disconnected the water lines from the turbo. Then I clamped using vices both water lines so when I put the rear of the car down it would not spill out. I could have clamped before I started, but I had the car up anyway to remove the entire exhaust system. Normally, 300 hp requires a minimum of a 3" exhaust. I know some have said the stock exhaust is good for 300hp. That is not true and there are hundreds of websites and many books about engine building to back that up. moving on. I bought the Nexus 3" from CPe.
On a second note, ATP did a better job with the water lines instead of the Mountune water tubes. The water lines could be installed prior to putting the turbo in the car and if I ever have to take the turbo off to replace or upgrade this wastegate, I will be buying a set of the water lines from ATP. The tubes were a dumb idea even if Mountune wanted to make it look as close to factory as possible, It was a dumb idea. Im also thinking this thing should have been converted to externally wastegated. That would have made this install and upgrading later very easy. And if you were a early adapter of this turbo, Tyler from Mountune sent me a note, giving me instructions on how to preload this wastegate. He says in his note if it was purchased in the last couple of weeks, the preload has already been set. If not I can only assume if it was not purchased in the last couple of weeks, your preload on the wastegate was not set and this may be robbing you of power. Im thinking it sounds like Mountune is figuring this out as they go, and coming from a company with their reputation, I take some issue with that.
Also, I used Copper anti seize on everything. The banjos, the oil feed. the manifold bots, the 02 sensors, if it had something that had to screw into something, I used the copper anti seize. You can buy this at most auto stores like Autozone, advance auto, ORileys and the such.
Now I have a problem with my install. When I went to stage 3 on the stock turbo, I used a MA Performance Hot side and cold side pipe. While the cold side matters not, the hot side is a different matter. My hot side pipe is 2.5" in diameter and is almost 100% hard pipe from FMIC to turbo. The 2554R turbo outlet relocates about 3 inches to the passenger side from where the stock turbo outlet was. I also have the pierce 6 point brace in my car. So I had to do some finagling to figure out the hot side pipe orignally. My buddy who has the same gear got his to work but he does not have the 6 point brace. I may opt to get the ATP hot side pipe or just go with the pipe that came with the kit. I have read some supra sites that indicate the size of the hot side pipe really doesnt matter and I am certain we have some folks here that can chime in with some welcomed opinions which I eagerly await to read. My thinking is if the turbo outlet is 2 inches and I run 2 inches all the way to the FMIC, the speed of the air doesnt change which would be good. But while the velocity doesnt change, the velocity of the air keeps the air hot at 2", so the FMIC has to work harder to bring it back down to ambient thermal dynamics 101. If you go from the turbo outlet of 2" to a hot side pipe of 2.5" the thought is velocity is slowed somewhat because of larger volume of pipe, air temp drops somewhat making it easier for the FMIC to bring air back down to ambient. You lose some velocity so maybe there is a trade off in low rpm response. I dont know, but I welcome any opinions on this. I could be smoking some low grade something, but to make the 2.5" work I think will be more effort than what it is worth and using either the mountune or ATP pipe would be better for fitment purposes. Now, if the Mountune or ATP pipe is better, I am almost certain the more hard pipe you have over silicone is better. The ATP is almost solid pipe from turbo to FMIC whereas the Mountune piece uses a lot of silicone. The Silicone is expanding under boost and that is not good for performace. The more pressure you can keep in the pipe the stronger the performance, this is a known fact.
I bought new manifold gasket, Why not right, your in there and its like 19.00. I bought new fire rings, one for the vband adapter that goes between the manifold, and a new fire ring that goes between the exhaust side of the turbo and the down pipe. I bought the rev 9 catless downpipe from ebay at 168.00 because DHM went out of business after I ordered my pipe from them, and I had to get something so it didnt hold up my install waiting on the refund, which I got Friday but I had started my install on Thursday. If it burns up and catches on fire I will let everyone know, but I personally have wondered about the CPe at 540.00. Its a pipe, with 3 bungs, and flexible insert. Im struggling to understand what the 540.00 is for? Certainly its not 380.00 in silver paint? That silver paint is not ceramic and has no thermal properties, I verified that with them.
In case anyone is wondering, the banjo on the firewall points up, and the banjo towards the engine points down. When i installed the water line towards the back of the turbo, I had it angled to the drivers side of the turbo which points the top of it back towards the passenger side of the firewall. I created an extended rubber hose to reach it. This kept it out of the way of the air intake tube for the turbo, and I ran the oil feed line behind the air intake tube towards the firewall on the passenger side. The firewall side banjo water line installed and lined up perfectly with the factory water line. When tightening the banjos, remember copper washer on both side of the banjo. Tighten then using a phillips head screwdriver inserted into tube to hold tube straight while tightening down the banjo fitting. The one on the back of the turbo next to the engine you want to be angled towards the exhaust side of the turbo or drivers side of the car, not all the way next to the turbo,because you need room to screw it down with a wrench, just a little so that it clears the oil return tube. this will make installing the water line there easier because of the position of the oil return tube. The one on front of the turbo closest to the firewall, you want to be perfectly straight up. The phillips head screw driver will help you to position the tube while tightening down the banjo. I tightened the banjo fittings until they would not turn any more, As they tighten up, go slower they will reach a point where they will just stop. I used a wrench to tighten the banjos.
When your removing the oil return star bolt from the oil pan, the axle rod is in the way, if your not experienced at doing engine work, this will seem impossible to remove. Use a 30mm torx socket, and an extension on your ratchet, and lay it on the axle, and very carefully break it lose, do not get impatient or you will strip it. Use the same method for reinstalling. Just tighten until it wont turn any more, no need to over tighten.
Anyone getting ready to do this install is welcome to ask questions as it is still fresh in my mind. I will do my best to help. I will wait to see who says what about the hot side pipe before I order anything for next weekend.
Before you start, if you have any reservations about doing this yourself, if you can build a computer, you can do this install. The one thing you need more than anything else is patience. Allocate a lot of time. If something gets you stuck, walk away, think about it, and then come back. Think about everything your doing. Read the ATP instructions several times, several days before doing the install to where it is ingrained into your brain. Do not wait until its time to do the install and think your going to just read as you go. Take your time and think about everything your doing as you do it. I did not use the instructions during the install, that is how many times I read through them before the install and I was reading them almost once a day for two weeks. that way when your looking at the car, everything is familiar.
First a general complaint. If I ever find the guy who designed this turbo and decided that it was ok to put a banjo fitting on the back side of this turbo......Im just saying.
So, As I had stated, I bought a second manifold had it ceramic coated, I removed the factory turbo and manifold, installed the new manifold to the new turbo in my lap vband and all. Replaced all of the studs in the block. On the vband, you tighten until you run out of threads, this may be a known for some, for others if you overtighten it or want to know how much to tighten it, you do it till you run out of threads which is very easy to see sitting in your lap, not so much when installing under the car. eGlove will tell you if you overtighten it, it breaks.
He saved me a lot of time. THANK YOU AGAIN. Doing it outside the car, especially if you dont have a lift is key here. Getting the vband correctly lined up to the turbo and vband bracket on the manifold is the key to the whole install. The turbo and manifold slipped right back into the car with ZERO problems. You put it in turbo air intake first pointing down about 3/4 from drivers side to passenger side just past the stud sticking up on the windshield wiper arm. It goes right in. then you have it upside down manifold laying on the cradle. Then you can install the oil return line. And I highly recommend installing the water return line that is on the engine block side of the turbo at this time. You dont have to, but if you dont, you will need to wait to install the oil return line because you will be taking that off again once the turbo is mounted to be able to tighten the water line down. Then you just flip the turbo around (lots of space), and hang the manifold on the bolts and press the manifold up to the block (Dont forget the manifold gasket), and tight the nuts down. I tightened them down until they wouldnt go any more with a ratchet and go slow as they start to tighten up. I highly recommend you not use any type of powered mechanical means to tighten. I used a 1/4 impact to break them loose. Some of the nuts came off, some brought the studs with them. Remember mine has 176,000 miles on it. I had sprayed them a day prior to removing them, but in the end it was no big deal. I bought replacements to use. As for prepping for the install. I removed the CAI tubing. both cowls, The headlights have to be unscrewed to get to the bottom cowl bolts, but I just left them sitting in place. I did not remove the battery (not necessary). I had the rear end of the car higher than the front. While you may laugh, this prevented coolant from pouring out of the car when I disconnected the water lines from the turbo. Then I clamped using vices both water lines so when I put the rear of the car down it would not spill out. I could have clamped before I started, but I had the car up anyway to remove the entire exhaust system. Normally, 300 hp requires a minimum of a 3" exhaust. I know some have said the stock exhaust is good for 300hp. That is not true and there are hundreds of websites and many books about engine building to back that up. moving on. I bought the Nexus 3" from CPe.
On a second note, ATP did a better job with the water lines instead of the Mountune water tubes. The water lines could be installed prior to putting the turbo in the car and if I ever have to take the turbo off to replace or upgrade this wastegate, I will be buying a set of the water lines from ATP. The tubes were a dumb idea even if Mountune wanted to make it look as close to factory as possible, It was a dumb idea. Im also thinking this thing should have been converted to externally wastegated. That would have made this install and upgrading later very easy. And if you were a early adapter of this turbo, Tyler from Mountune sent me a note, giving me instructions on how to preload this wastegate. He says in his note if it was purchased in the last couple of weeks, the preload has already been set. If not I can only assume if it was not purchased in the last couple of weeks, your preload on the wastegate was not set and this may be robbing you of power. Im thinking it sounds like Mountune is figuring this out as they go, and coming from a company with their reputation, I take some issue with that.
Also, I used Copper anti seize on everything. The banjos, the oil feed. the manifold bots, the 02 sensors, if it had something that had to screw into something, I used the copper anti seize. You can buy this at most auto stores like Autozone, advance auto, ORileys and the such.
Now I have a problem with my install. When I went to stage 3 on the stock turbo, I used a MA Performance Hot side and cold side pipe. While the cold side matters not, the hot side is a different matter. My hot side pipe is 2.5" in diameter and is almost 100% hard pipe from FMIC to turbo. The 2554R turbo outlet relocates about 3 inches to the passenger side from where the stock turbo outlet was. I also have the pierce 6 point brace in my car. So I had to do some finagling to figure out the hot side pipe orignally. My buddy who has the same gear got his to work but he does not have the 6 point brace. I may opt to get the ATP hot side pipe or just go with the pipe that came with the kit. I have read some supra sites that indicate the size of the hot side pipe really doesnt matter and I am certain we have some folks here that can chime in with some welcomed opinions which I eagerly await to read. My thinking is if the turbo outlet is 2 inches and I run 2 inches all the way to the FMIC, the speed of the air doesnt change which would be good. But while the velocity doesnt change, the velocity of the air keeps the air hot at 2", so the FMIC has to work harder to bring it back down to ambient thermal dynamics 101. If you go from the turbo outlet of 2" to a hot side pipe of 2.5" the thought is velocity is slowed somewhat because of larger volume of pipe, air temp drops somewhat making it easier for the FMIC to bring air back down to ambient. You lose some velocity so maybe there is a trade off in low rpm response. I dont know, but I welcome any opinions on this. I could be smoking some low grade something, but to make the 2.5" work I think will be more effort than what it is worth and using either the mountune or ATP pipe would be better for fitment purposes. Now, if the Mountune or ATP pipe is better, I am almost certain the more hard pipe you have over silicone is better. The ATP is almost solid pipe from turbo to FMIC whereas the Mountune piece uses a lot of silicone. The Silicone is expanding under boost and that is not good for performace. The more pressure you can keep in the pipe the stronger the performance, this is a known fact.
I bought new manifold gasket, Why not right, your in there and its like 19.00. I bought new fire rings, one for the vband adapter that goes between the manifold, and a new fire ring that goes between the exhaust side of the turbo and the down pipe. I bought the rev 9 catless downpipe from ebay at 168.00 because DHM went out of business after I ordered my pipe from them, and I had to get something so it didnt hold up my install waiting on the refund, which I got Friday but I had started my install on Thursday. If it burns up and catches on fire I will let everyone know, but I personally have wondered about the CPe at 540.00. Its a pipe, with 3 bungs, and flexible insert. Im struggling to understand what the 540.00 is for? Certainly its not 380.00 in silver paint? That silver paint is not ceramic and has no thermal properties, I verified that with them.
In case anyone is wondering, the banjo on the firewall points up, and the banjo towards the engine points down. When i installed the water line towards the back of the turbo, I had it angled to the drivers side of the turbo which points the top of it back towards the passenger side of the firewall. I created an extended rubber hose to reach it. This kept it out of the way of the air intake tube for the turbo, and I ran the oil feed line behind the air intake tube towards the firewall on the passenger side. The firewall side banjo water line installed and lined up perfectly with the factory water line. When tightening the banjos, remember copper washer on both side of the banjo. Tighten then using a phillips head screwdriver inserted into tube to hold tube straight while tightening down the banjo fitting. The one on the back of the turbo next to the engine you want to be angled towards the exhaust side of the turbo or drivers side of the car, not all the way next to the turbo,because you need room to screw it down with a wrench, just a little so that it clears the oil return tube. this will make installing the water line there easier because of the position of the oil return tube. The one on front of the turbo closest to the firewall, you want to be perfectly straight up. The phillips head screw driver will help you to position the tube while tightening down the banjo. I tightened the banjo fittings until they would not turn any more, As they tighten up, go slower they will reach a point where they will just stop. I used a wrench to tighten the banjos.
When your removing the oil return star bolt from the oil pan, the axle rod is in the way, if your not experienced at doing engine work, this will seem impossible to remove. Use a 30mm torx socket, and an extension on your ratchet, and lay it on the axle, and very carefully break it lose, do not get impatient or you will strip it. Use the same method for reinstalling. Just tighten until it wont turn any more, no need to over tighten.
Anyone getting ready to do this install is welcome to ask questions as it is still fresh in my mind. I will do my best to help. I will wait to see who says what about the hot side pipe before I order anything for next weekend.
Performed install, and here are some notes. First I want to send out a big Thank you to eglove. He was nice enough to share some thoughts about his install which I think made a big difference for me.
Before you start, if you have any reservations about doing this yourself, if you can build a computer, you can do this install. The one thing you need more than anything else is patience. Allocate a lot of time. If something gets you stuck, walk away, think about it, and then come back. Think about everything your doing. Read the ATP instructions several times, several days before doing the install to where it is ingrained into your brain. Do not wait until its time to do the install and think your going to just read as you go. Take your time and think about everything your doing as you do it. I did not use the instructions during the install, that is how many times I read through them before the install and I was reading them almost once a day for two weeks. that way when your looking at the car, everything is familiar.
First a general complaint. If I ever find the guy who designed this turbo and decided that it was ok to put a banjo fitting on the back side of this turbo......Im just saying.
So, As I had stated, I bought a second manifold had it ceramic coated, I removed the factory turbo and manifold, installed the new manifold to the new turbo in my lap vband and all. Replaced all of the studs in the block. On the vband, you tighten until you run out of threads, this may be a known for some, for others if you overtighten it or want to know how much to tighten it, you do it till you run out of threads which is very easy to see sitting in your lap, not so much when installing under the car. eGlove will tell you if you overtighten it, it breaks. He saved me a lot of time. THANK YOU AGAIN. Doing it outside the car, especially if you dont have a lift is key here. Getting the vband correctly lined up to the turbo and vband bracket on the manifold is the key to the whole install. The turbo and manifold slipped right back into the car with ZERO problems. You put it in turbo air intake first pointing down about 3/4 from drivers side to passenger side just past the stud sticking up on the windshield wiper arm. It goes right in. then you have it upside down manifold laying on the cradle. Then you can install the oil return line. And I highly recommend installing the water return line that is on the engine block side of the turbo at this time. You dont have to, but if you dont, you will need to wait to install the oil return line because you will be taking that off again once the turbo is mounted to be able to tighten the water line down. Then you just flip the turbo around (lots of space), and hang the manifold on the bolts and press the manifold up to the block (Dont forget the manifold gasket), and tight the nuts down. I tightened them down until they wouldnt go any more with a ratchet and go slow as they start to tighten up. I highly recommend you not use any type of powered mechanical means to tighten. I used a 1/4 impact to break them loose. Some of the nuts came off, some brought the studs with them. Remember mine has 176,000 miles on it. I had sprayed them a day prior to removing them, but in the end it was no big deal. I bought replacements to use.
As for prepping for the install. I removed the CAI tubing. both cowls, The headlights have to be unscrewed to get to the bottom cowl bolts, but I just left them sitting in place. I did not remove the battery (not necessary). I had the rear end of the car higher than the front. While you may laugh, this prevented coolant from pouring out of the car when I disconnected the water lines from the turbo. Then I clamped using vices both water lines so when I put the rear of the car down it would not spill out. I could have clamped before I started, but I had the car up anyway to remove the entire exhaust system. Normally, 300 hp requires a minimum of a 3" exhaust. I know some have said the stock exhaust is good for 300hp. That is not true and there are hundreds of websites and many books about engine building to back that up. moving on. I bought the Nexus 3" from CPe.
On a second note, ATP did a better job with the water lines instead of the Mountune water tubes. The water lines could be installed prior to putting the turbo in the car and if I ever have to take the turbo off to replace or upgrade this wastegate, I will be buying a set of the water lines from ATP. The tubes were a dumb idea even if Mountune wanted to make it look as close to factory as possible, It was a dumb idea. Im also thinking this thing should have been converted to externally wastegated. That would have made this install and upgrading later very easy. And if you were a early adapter of this turbo, Tyler from Mountune sent me a note, giving me instructions on how to preload this wastegate. He says in his note if it was purchased in the last couple of weeks, the preload has already been set. If not I can only assume if it was not purchased in the last couple of weeks, your preload on the wastegate was not set and this may be robbing you of power. Im thinking it sounds like Mountune is figuring this out as they go, and coming from a company with their reputation, I take some issue with that.
Also, I used Copper anti seize on everything. The banjos, the oil feed. the manifold bots, the 02 sensors, if it had something that had to screw into something, I used the copper anti seize. You can buy this at most auto stores like Autozone, advance auto, ORileys and the such.
Now I have a problem with my install. When I went to stage 3 on the stock turbo, I used a MA Performance Hot side and cold side pipe. While the cold side matters not, the hot side is a different matter. My hot side pipe is 2.5" in diameter and is almost 100% hard pipe from FMIC to turbo. The 2554R turbo outlet relocates about 3 inches to the passenger side from where the stock turbo outlet was. I also have the pierce 6 point brace in my car. So I had to do some finagling to figure out the hot side pipe orignally. My buddy who has the same gear got his to work but he does not have the 6 point brace. I may opt to get the ATP hot side pipe or just go with the pipe that came with the kit. I have read some supra sites that indicate the size of the hot side pipe really doesnt matter and I am certain we have some folks here that can chime in with some welcomed opinions which I eagerly await to read. My thinking is if the turbo outlet is 2 inches and I run 2 inches all the way to the FMIC, the speed of the air doesnt change which would be good. But while the velocity doesnt change, the velocity of the air keeps the air hot at 2", so the FMIC has to work harder to bring it back down to ambient thermal dynamics 101. If you go from the turbo outlet of 2" to a hot side pipe of 2.5" the thought is velocity is slowed somewhat because of larger volume of pipe, air temp drops somewhat making it easier for the FMIC to bring air back down to ambient. You lose some velocity so maybe there is a trade off in low rpm response. I dont know, but I welcome any opinions on this. I could be smoking some low grade something, but to make the 2.5" work I think will be more effort than what it is worth and using either the mountune or ATP pipe would be better for fitment purposes. Now, if the Mountune or ATP pipe is better, I am almost certain the more hard pipe you have over silicone is better. The ATP is almost solid pipe from turbo to FMIC whereas the Mountune piece uses a lot of silicone. The Silicone is expanding under boost and that is not good for performace. The more pressure you can keep in the pipe the stronger the performance, this is a known fact.
I bought new manifold gasket, Why not right, your in there and its like 19.00. I bought new fire rings, one for the vband adapter that goes between the manifold, and a new fire ring that goes between the exhaust side of the turbo and the down pipe. I bought the rev 9 catless downpipe from ebay at 168.00 because DHM went out of business after I ordered my pipe from them, and I had to get something so it didnt hold up my install waiting on the refund, which I got Friday but I had started my install on Thursday. If it burns up and catches on fire I will let everyone know, but I personally have wondered about the CPe at 540.00. Its a pipe, with 3 bungs, and flexible insert. Im struggling to understand what the 540.00 is for? Certainly its not 380.00 in silver paint? That silver paint is not ceramic and has no thermal properties, I verified that with them.
In case anyone is wondering, the banjo on the firewall points up, and the banjo towards the engine points down. When i installed the water line towards the back of the turbo, I had it angled to the drivers side of the turbo which points the top of it back towards the passenger side of the firewall. I created an extended rubber hose to reach it. This kept it out of the way of the air intake tube for the turbo, and I ran the oil feed line behind the air intake tube towards the firewall on the passenger side. The firewall side banjo water line installed and lined up perfectly with the factory water line. When tightening the banjos, remember copper washer on both side of the banjo. Tighten then using a phillips head screwdriver inserted into tube to hold tube straight while tightening down the banjo fitting. The one on the back of the turbo next to the engine you want to be angled towards the exhaust side of the turbo or drivers side of the car, not all the way next to the turbo,because you need room to screw it down with a wrench, just a little so that it clears the oil return tube. this will make installing the water line there easier because of the position of the oil return tube. The one on front of the turbo closest to the firewall, you want to be perfectly straight up. The phillips head screw driver will help you to position the tube while tightening down the banjo. I tightened the banjo fittings until they would not turn any more, As they tighten up, go slower they will reach a point where they will just stop. I used a wrench to tighten the banjos.
When your removing the oil return star bolt from the oil pan, the axle rod is in the way, if your not experienced at doing engine work, this will seem impossible to remove. Use a 30mm torx socket, and an extension on your ratchet, and lay it on the axle, and very carefully break it lose, do not get impatient or you will strip it. Use the same method for reinstalling. Just tighten until it wont turn any more, no need to over tighten.
Anyone getting ready to do this install is welcome to ask questions as it is still fresh in my mind. I will do my best to help. I will wait to see who says what about the hot side pipe before I order anything for next weekend.
Before you start, if you have any reservations about doing this yourself, if you can build a computer, you can do this install. The one thing you need more than anything else is patience. Allocate a lot of time. If something gets you stuck, walk away, think about it, and then come back. Think about everything your doing. Read the ATP instructions several times, several days before doing the install to where it is ingrained into your brain. Do not wait until its time to do the install and think your going to just read as you go. Take your time and think about everything your doing as you do it. I did not use the instructions during the install, that is how many times I read through them before the install and I was reading them almost once a day for two weeks. that way when your looking at the car, everything is familiar.
First a general complaint. If I ever find the guy who designed this turbo and decided that it was ok to put a banjo fitting on the back side of this turbo......Im just saying.
So, As I had stated, I bought a second manifold had it ceramic coated, I removed the factory turbo and manifold, installed the new manifold to the new turbo in my lap vband and all. Replaced all of the studs in the block. On the vband, you tighten until you run out of threads, this may be a known for some, for others if you overtighten it or want to know how much to tighten it, you do it till you run out of threads which is very easy to see sitting in your lap, not so much when installing under the car. eGlove will tell you if you overtighten it, it breaks.
He saved me a lot of time. THANK YOU AGAIN. Doing it outside the car, especially if you dont have a lift is key here. Getting the vband correctly lined up to the turbo and vband bracket on the manifold is the key to the whole install. The turbo and manifold slipped right back into the car with ZERO problems. You put it in turbo air intake first pointing down about 3/4 from drivers side to passenger side just past the stud sticking up on the windshield wiper arm. It goes right in. then you have it upside down manifold laying on the cradle. Then you can install the oil return line. And I highly recommend installing the water return line that is on the engine block side of the turbo at this time. You dont have to, but if you dont, you will need to wait to install the oil return line because you will be taking that off again once the turbo is mounted to be able to tighten the water line down. Then you just flip the turbo around (lots of space), and hang the manifold on the bolts and press the manifold up to the block (Dont forget the manifold gasket), and tight the nuts down. I tightened them down until they wouldnt go any more with a ratchet and go slow as they start to tighten up. I highly recommend you not use any type of powered mechanical means to tighten. I used a 1/4 impact to break them loose. Some of the nuts came off, some brought the studs with them. Remember mine has 176,000 miles on it. I had sprayed them a day prior to removing them, but in the end it was no big deal. I bought replacements to use. As for prepping for the install. I removed the CAI tubing. both cowls, The headlights have to be unscrewed to get to the bottom cowl bolts, but I just left them sitting in place. I did not remove the battery (not necessary). I had the rear end of the car higher than the front. While you may laugh, this prevented coolant from pouring out of the car when I disconnected the water lines from the turbo. Then I clamped using vices both water lines so when I put the rear of the car down it would not spill out. I could have clamped before I started, but I had the car up anyway to remove the entire exhaust system. Normally, 300 hp requires a minimum of a 3" exhaust. I know some have said the stock exhaust is good for 300hp. That is not true and there are hundreds of websites and many books about engine building to back that up. moving on. I bought the Nexus 3" from CPe.
On a second note, ATP did a better job with the water lines instead of the Mountune water tubes. The water lines could be installed prior to putting the turbo in the car and if I ever have to take the turbo off to replace or upgrade this wastegate, I will be buying a set of the water lines from ATP. The tubes were a dumb idea even if Mountune wanted to make it look as close to factory as possible, It was a dumb idea. Im also thinking this thing should have been converted to externally wastegated. That would have made this install and upgrading later very easy. And if you were a early adapter of this turbo, Tyler from Mountune sent me a note, giving me instructions on how to preload this wastegate. He says in his note if it was purchased in the last couple of weeks, the preload has already been set. If not I can only assume if it was not purchased in the last couple of weeks, your preload on the wastegate was not set and this may be robbing you of power. Im thinking it sounds like Mountune is figuring this out as they go, and coming from a company with their reputation, I take some issue with that.
Also, I used Copper anti seize on everything. The banjos, the oil feed. the manifold bots, the 02 sensors, if it had something that had to screw into something, I used the copper anti seize. You can buy this at most auto stores like Autozone, advance auto, ORileys and the such.
Now I have a problem with my install. When I went to stage 3 on the stock turbo, I used a MA Performance Hot side and cold side pipe. While the cold side matters not, the hot side is a different matter. My hot side pipe is 2.5" in diameter and is almost 100% hard pipe from FMIC to turbo. The 2554R turbo outlet relocates about 3 inches to the passenger side from where the stock turbo outlet was. I also have the pierce 6 point brace in my car. So I had to do some finagling to figure out the hot side pipe orignally. My buddy who has the same gear got his to work but he does not have the 6 point brace. I may opt to get the ATP hot side pipe or just go with the pipe that came with the kit. I have read some supra sites that indicate the size of the hot side pipe really doesnt matter and I am certain we have some folks here that can chime in with some welcomed opinions which I eagerly await to read. My thinking is if the turbo outlet is 2 inches and I run 2 inches all the way to the FMIC, the speed of the air doesnt change which would be good. But while the velocity doesnt change, the velocity of the air keeps the air hot at 2", so the FMIC has to work harder to bring it back down to ambient thermal dynamics 101. If you go from the turbo outlet of 2" to a hot side pipe of 2.5" the thought is velocity is slowed somewhat because of larger volume of pipe, air temp drops somewhat making it easier for the FMIC to bring air back down to ambient. You lose some velocity so maybe there is a trade off in low rpm response. I dont know, but I welcome any opinions on this. I could be smoking some low grade something, but to make the 2.5" work I think will be more effort than what it is worth and using either the mountune or ATP pipe would be better for fitment purposes. Now, if the Mountune or ATP pipe is better, I am almost certain the more hard pipe you have over silicone is better. The ATP is almost solid pipe from turbo to FMIC whereas the Mountune piece uses a lot of silicone. The Silicone is expanding under boost and that is not good for performace. The more pressure you can keep in the pipe the stronger the performance, this is a known fact.
I bought new manifold gasket, Why not right, your in there and its like 19.00. I bought new fire rings, one for the vband adapter that goes between the manifold, and a new fire ring that goes between the exhaust side of the turbo and the down pipe. I bought the rev 9 catless downpipe from ebay at 168.00 because DHM went out of business after I ordered my pipe from them, and I had to get something so it didnt hold up my install waiting on the refund, which I got Friday but I had started my install on Thursday. If it burns up and catches on fire I will let everyone know, but I personally have wondered about the CPe at 540.00. Its a pipe, with 3 bungs, and flexible insert. Im struggling to understand what the 540.00 is for? Certainly its not 380.00 in silver paint? That silver paint is not ceramic and has no thermal properties, I verified that with them.
In case anyone is wondering, the banjo on the firewall points up, and the banjo towards the engine points down. When i installed the water line towards the back of the turbo, I had it angled to the drivers side of the turbo which points the top of it back towards the passenger side of the firewall. I created an extended rubber hose to reach it. This kept it out of the way of the air intake tube for the turbo, and I ran the oil feed line behind the air intake tube towards the firewall on the passenger side. The firewall side banjo water line installed and lined up perfectly with the factory water line. When tightening the banjos, remember copper washer on both side of the banjo. Tighten then using a phillips head screwdriver inserted into tube to hold tube straight while tightening down the banjo fitting. The one on the back of the turbo next to the engine you want to be angled towards the exhaust side of the turbo or drivers side of the car, not all the way next to the turbo,because you need room to screw it down with a wrench, just a little so that it clears the oil return tube. this will make installing the water line there easier because of the position of the oil return tube. The one on front of the turbo closest to the firewall, you want to be perfectly straight up. The phillips head screw driver will help you to position the tube while tightening down the banjo. I tightened the banjo fittings until they would not turn any more, As they tighten up, go slower they will reach a point where they will just stop. I used a wrench to tighten the banjos.
When your removing the oil return star bolt from the oil pan, the axle rod is in the way, if your not experienced at doing engine work, this will seem impossible to remove. Use a 30mm torx socket, and an extension on your ratchet, and lay it on the axle, and very carefully break it lose, do not get impatient or you will strip it. Use the same method for reinstalling. Just tighten until it wont turn any more, no need to over tighten.
Anyone getting ready to do this install is welcome to ask questions as it is still fresh in my mind. I will do my best to help. I will wait to see who says what about the hot side pipe before I order anything for next weekend.
![[;)]](/images/smilies/wink.png "Wink [;)]")
Thread Starter
#776
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Thread Starter
#779
Lmao it was just a joke.
But seeing as he said "customer" I feel as though he should have some wrench turning knowledge.
I'm an aircraft mechanic for a living so I'm slightly more experienced tho..
But seeing as he said "customer" I feel as though he should have some wrench turning knowledge.
I'm an aircraft mechanic for a living so I'm slightly more experienced tho..
Just mark the planes you work on ....right on the tail. With Brura22 so I know not to utilize it as a mode of transportation as I value my life more than your crapsmanship...er....craftsmanship. give that guy some credit...maybe he's alittle green compared to you all mighty Brura....but hey Brura....i still love you doodle bug!
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