Rear Camber Adjustability with Koni Orange STR.T

[2Hemis]

Hey guys,

Glad to be back browsing the forums after a hiatus. I'm getting my ST ready for the racetrack this spring and one thing I am looking at is more negative camber.

I have the adjustable camber bolts for the fronts, but what can I do for the rears? I searched and found nothing for a non-coil over set up. I can't even figure out how the stock rear specs are adjusted, and the local Ford dealer couldn't get me any more rear camber from the factory with OEM struts.

I really don't want the hassle of coilovers, but is that my only option at this point? I already ordered the Koni Oranges because of the positive reviews here and elsewhere, but I can always return them. I have some Swift springs to use with them, too, but those are not on yet, either.

Thanks!

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[KKaWing]

Short answer is there is no adjustment. Longer answer is you can cut then reweld the hub, or you can use shims then somehow fab something up to adjust the wheel speed sensor so it would work with the shimmed hub.

 

[kivnul]

Also double check the suitability of Koni Oranges with track use. From what I have read, they are squishy.

 

[2Hemis]

Also double check the suitability of Koni Oranges with track use. From what I have read, they are squishy.

Thanks guys. I figured.

The Oranges have to be better than OEMs, and there are a number of posts singing their praises, but I did see a few comments to that end when the struts were compared with the Eibachs. Maybe I'm wrong. The OEMs are not up to the job of damping the Swift springs imo.

I couldn't find any consensus on the best bargain rate coilover setup but maybe I haven't looked lately enough.

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[Woods247]

I went over the rear camber thing somewhere else in the track section. Short of it is, do not use shims. Your rear ABS sensors will sit too far away from the rings and the car will limp. I tried fabing relocation brackets for the sensors and it still didn't work. My solution (for rear camber) was to add washers to the bottom hub mounting bolts. Ghetto yes, but it works. My next trackday is 4/25. I'll see how it is then.

 

[2Hemis]

I went over the rear camber thing somewhere else in the track section. Short of it is, do not use shims. Your rear ABS sensors will sit too far away from the rings and the car will limp. I tried fabing relocation brackets for the sensors and it still didn't work. My solution (for rear camber) was to add washers to the bottom hub mounting bolts. Ghetto yes, but it works. My next trackday is 4/25. I'll see how it is then.

Hmm. Interesting solution but I'm looking for something more permanent. I have a feeling I'm stuck with coilovers if I want rear camber adjustability. I was just hoping there may have been something I was missing.

I'm going to try this setup (Koni orange and Swift springs) before I go to coilovers most likely, unless somebody has a suggestion for coilovers with RCA that are cheaper than the KWs.



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[Woods247]

I have BC Racing coilovers. You can achieve front camber adjustability with coilovers but not rear. There is no way to change camber in the rear without using spacers (washers in my case) on the hubs or building new hubs.

 

[2Hemis]

I have BC Racing coilovers. You can achieve front camber adjustability with coilovers but not rear. There is no way to change camber in the rear without using spacers (washers in my case) on the hubs or building new hubs.

Ah, nuts. Ok.

How do you like the BCs?

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[Woods247]

Ah, nuts. Ok.

How do you like the BCs?

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I love them. 2J-Racing had them custom built with SWIFT springs using the weight of my car. We corner balanced and aligned the car after the installation as well. I have no complaints and my car is MUCH better on the road and the track in every way.

 

[D1JL]

I went over the rear camber thing somewhere else in the track section. Short of it is, do not use shims. Your rear ABS sensors will sit too far away from the rings and the car will limp. I tried fabing relocation brackets for the sensors and it still didn't work. My solution (for rear camber) was to add washers to the bottom hub mounting bolts. Ghetto yes, but it works. My next trackday is 4/25. I'll see how it is then.

If you make the shims correctly you will have no problem at all.
I have had them on my car for the last 2+ years and my ABS works just fine.


Dave

 

[Woods247]

If you make the shims correctly you will have no problem at all.
I have had them on my car for the last 2+ years and my ABS works just fine.


Dave

Okay that is good news. Care to share how you did it?

 

[D1JL]

Okay that is good news. Care to share how you did it?

No, but hopefully will be the second product made.


Dave

 

[Woods247]

No, but hopefully will be the second product made.


Dave

Okay you've lost me. I realize you're oldschool here so I'll just move along.. I don't really care anyway haha. I was just trying to help out others that landed here via search.

 

[D1JL]

Okay you've lost me. I realize you're oldschool here so I'll just move along.. I don't really care anyway haha. I was just trying to help out others that landed here via search.

You will soon understand.


Dave

 

[2Hemis]

You will soon understand.


Dave

If someone wants to make a part like a RCA to get this adjustment, consider me in line.

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[BRGT350]

Use the non-ST rear twist beam. You gain some negative camber and a softer spring rate because the beam is thinner. Both will promote rear traction. Having been on track with both setups, I prefer the rotation of the ST.