How to get more rear camber!

[Jesse]

Well I ordered up a rear axle assembly out of a mazda2, They have -1.5 rear camber compared to FiST 0 camber that mine came with) toe is suppose to be about the same .15 toe in. I've read and heard that it fits and works, but im just going to try for myself and post pictures along the way, suppose to be here today ill let everyone know how it goes! I will hopefully also be able to test out rear mazda 2 hubs with ST calipers for 4x100 conversion, im 99% that is all a lie, from pictures it doesn't look like it would work, but ill test it because I believe it is coming with hubs brakes and everything. well see.

 

[HardBoiledEgg]

This is exciting

 

[Bluedrank]

I was going to say a hammer, but your way sounds better.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Seems A LOT less involved, and more 'solid' than the way Rick (RAAM audio on here) did the cut and weld job to his FiST's rear axle to get the negative camber he needed.

 

[Jesse]

OK so UPDATE........ Mazda 2 rear hubs can in no way work for a 4x100 conversion unless you want to have rear drum brakes and swap the whole mazda 2 rear beam in...

Mazda 2 rear beam also does not "bolt right up" to fiesta hubs...

Another problem is the rear sway bar mounts are slightly different although you could make it work by drilling holes, it wouldn't "bolt in" like my fiesta did.




However, I was able to achieve my goal with plastic shims for 30$ that napa had in stock -1.5 camber has been accomplished...

 

[KKaWing]

However, I was able to achieve my goal with plastic shims for 30$ that napa had in stock -1.5 camber has been accomplished...

Is it playing nice with the ABS wheelspeed sensor?

 

[Sprayed150]

i was just going to shim too lol

 

[codestp202]

Can you update as to how you shimmed it for that camber? How are you achieving front camber? The camber bolts?

Will we see better turn in and rotation on the track with all 4 wheels at 1.5?

 

[M-Sport fan]

Can you update as to how you shimmed it for that camber?

+1

I'm guessing that Rick either needed MORE camber than the shims would yield, or he did not trust them to stay in place, or work with the necessary torque of the hub mounting bolts (WHY he did not simply shim the hub mounts instead of going through the whole involved process he did to get camber on the back wheels, maybe?)?

 

[Jesse]

I removed sensors... don't need ABS/TCS/VSC/TV messing up my lap times :-D


I run -2.8 camber in the front and -1.5 in the back, similar toe as factory on the rears with .2 total toe in. I run -.05 toe out on the street and faster tracks, smaller tracks or autox -.2 toe out. I will report back on how it feels after my next track day on the 14th.

The shims are pretty annoying to install, but not hard, I wish someone would make some metal ones for the Fiesta, I would pay 50$ for the ease of having something I don't have to worry about crumbling in the Arizona Heat.

My guess it would take a professional like me with a lift from start to finish about a hour or 2, someone who didn't know what they were doing maybe 5 hours or more depending on skill.

 

[M-Sport fan]

My guess it would take a professional like me with a lift from start to finish about a hour or 2, someone who didn't know what they were doing maybe 5 hours or more depending on skill.

Are these time estimates for only the installation, or are you also including the camber and toe CHECKS each time, for each different shim as well?

 

[Jesse]

I only installed them once, and toe was within factory spec (.2 total toe in) so I didn't have to reshim it camber was perfect at -1.5 both L and R sides ... lol got lucky I guess

 

[KKaWing]

I removed sensors... don't need ABS/TCS/VSC/TV messing up my lap times :-D


I run -2.8 camber in the front and -1.5 in the back, similar toe as factory on the rears with .2 total toe in. I run -.05 toe out on the street and faster tracks, smaller tracks or autox -.2 toe out. I will report back on how it feels after my next track day on the 14th.

The shims are pretty annoying to install, but not hard, I wish someone would make some metal ones for the Fiesta, I would pay 50$ for the ease of having something I don't have to worry about crumbling in the Arizona Heat.

My guess it would take a professional like me with a lift from start to finish about a hour or 2, someone who didn't know what they were doing maybe 5 hours or more depending on skill.

Awww... I'm not confident enough in myself to get rid of all the nannys. Driving home exhausted from a day of skiing in the middle of a snow storm isn't the best place to get a refresher on how to deal with snap oversteer for whatever reason... even though this is actually my first car with stability control I just don't think I'll be able to give up ABS. Never had a car without it. Oh well...

 

[Jesse]

Abs isn't active 99.9% of the time... You get used to it with practice like everything else :-D

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[Jesse]

****************Forgot to post an update so hear it is********************


The car handles like ass @ track speeds with -1.5 of rear camber... the rear end comes out even easier (as if that was possible I thought) I removed them and went back to stock rear alignment settings and put down WAY faster lap times on exactly the same setup (1:55's compared to 1:52's)

Live and learn I guess

 

[M-Sport fan]

I always thought (and heard) that POSITIVE rear camber is what helps promotes oversteer.

 

[KKaWing]

Maybe it's the rear beam thing. IIRC it keeps the tire pretty flat, until the little fiesta sniffs out a corner it wants to mark anyways.

 

[Woods247]

2J Racing shimmed mine and had to machine adapters to relocate the ABS sensor 3mm closer to the rings. I don’t have numbers on hand but can get them. We’re still shaking down. Rear camber and toe feels really good on the street though. I’ll be on track a couple of times this week and will have more feedback after that. If you want numbers let me know and I’ll see if I can get them. Everyone likes their cars setup different anyway. I also went to custom BC/Swift all around and corner balanced. I think the rear camber/toe was definitely worth the effort.

 

[alexrex20]

I removed sensors... don't need ABS/TCS/VSC/TV messing up my lap times :-D


I run -2.8 camber in the front and -1.5 in the back, similar toe as factory on the rears with .2 total toe in. I run -.05 toe out on the street and faster tracks, smaller tracks or autox -.2 toe out. I will report back on how it feels after my next track day on the 14th.

The shims are pretty annoying to install, but not hard, I wish someone would make some metal ones for the Fiesta, I would pay 50$ for the ease of having something I don't have to worry about crumbling in the Arizona Heat.

My guess it would take a professional like me with a lift from start to finish about a hour or 2, someone who didn't know what they were doing maybe 5 hours or more depending on skill.

I wonder, is there a way we can permanently disable TCS/ESC/TV?

 

[Woods247]

Shims definitely do not work with the Fiesta’s ABS sensors.. Don’t bother trying. It was fine until I went to the track and pushed the car hard enough to activate it. As soon as that happened it limped. Fortunatley (or unfortunately) I ended up frying a sensor while I was out there. After that, the car was drivable, but TC or ABS were disabled by the ECU. Once I realized it wouldn’t limp, I went back out and hammered it on track again and absolutely loved it. I must’ve set off a yaw sensor or something on a fast lap because it limped again on a long carousel. This time the TC, ABS and EBrake lights were lit. After that episode, I pitted and rebooted the car which successfully cleared the EBrake light (TC and ABS were still solid). Mentally, I was spent so I called the shop and scheduled some time.

As far as oversteer goes, I had zero issues with the rear camber. The rear end followed through and I experienced very minimal understeer at turnout. I’m also on new 215/40-17 RT615K+ tires (hot temps 36/36) and custom BC/Swift coilovers that are corner balanced. I’m not sure how that compares to Jesse’s setup.

We ended up pulling the shims and installing washers to push the bottom of the hub out. Ghetto but works without nanny errors haha! We’ll see how it does on track next week.