Lightweight Battery

[stash3630]

I'd like to switch to a lightweight battery for rallycross. I was looking at Braille, but I'm not sure what model would be a proper replacement. They never responded to either of my emails so I could use some guidance. Should I go with a Braille? Which model? Other brands/models to consider? Any experience with Braille or other lightweight battery makers?

https://shopbraille.com/

https://shopbraille.com/collections/lightweight-agm

 

[hawyee]

Running the Odyssey PC680 and the mele battery box, it isn't the lightest but a big savings compared to stock and has been really reliable. The braille on my old MR2 only lasted a year before it was dead.

 

[WannabeST]

I run an antigravity ATX 20 HD. It’s been in my car for over a year now with zero issues. I love it.

 

[Dpro]

I run a PC680 in my car for a little over a year now no problems weighs in at like 13lbs not the lightest but sealed and and lot lighter than the 40 pound stock brick.

 

[ronmcdon]

I might switch to a odyssey lightweight myself. good to know the melee battery box is a good fit.

used an antigravity lithium (atx30-rs I believe is the model) a few years ago and didn't have the best experience with it all. Battery would die on me randomly and had to jumped frequently. Thing wasn't cheap either.

 

[M-Sport fan]

If I lived in a year round warm climate, I would chance the PC680 instead of my boat anchor Odyssey 96R-600.

But then listening to the music with the engine off is out the window forever.

 

[jivenene]

The battery in my 2018 that i just bought is original, and I can tell it is dying (6 years old). After doing too much reading, going back and forth between AGM/lithium, and taking cost into account, I decided on a 15lb Deka battery, ETX20L. Apparently they make this battery for most auto parts stores, including braille, napa (napa legend premium agm) and autozone (duralast gold agm), and probably the oreilly battery also. It is 310CCA, 17.5Ah @ C/10 discharge rate, and weighs 15lbs, much lighter than the stock 31lb brick. The cost was $120, which is much less than the 5lb shorai LFX36L3-BS12 and costs $325 ish. I will monitor the voltage and performance of the Deka, hopefully it will last at least 4 years. I am in San Diego and don't plan on driving to a sub zero place any time soon, but I should invest in some good jumper cables just in case lol.

The other things I'm curious about is what is the draw on the battery in full shutdown mode, and can I install an automatic disconnect to remove the battery from the circuit once voltage reaches something like 12.2V. I have some experience with BMW Intelligent Battery System, and ford's is very similar (I assume all new cars have a IBS of some kind now). I still need to get forscan and code in the new battery specs, just like I had to do with my e90 330i when installing a new battery.

 

[Dpro]

n

The battery in my 2018 that i just bought is original, and I can tell it is dying (6 years old). After doing too much reading, going back and forth between AGM/lithium, and taking cost into account, I decided on a 15lb Deka battery, ETX20L. Apparently they make this battery for most auto parts stores, including braille, napa (napa legend premium agm) and autozone (duralast gold agm), and probably the oreilly battery also. It is 310CCA, 17.5Ah @ C/10 discharge rate, and weighs 15lbs, much lighter than the stock 31lb brick. The cost was $120, which is much less than the 5lb shorai LFX36L3-BS12 and costs $325 ish. I will monitor the voltage and performance of the Deka, hopefully it will last at least 4 years. I am in San Diego and don't plan on driving to a sub zero place any time soon, but I should invest in some good jumper cables just in case lol.

The other things I'm curious about is what is the draw on the battery in full shutdown mode, and can I install an automatic disconnect to remove the battery from the circuit once voltage reaches something like 12.2V. I have some experience with BMW Intelligent Battery System, and ford's is very similar (I assume all new cars have a IBS of some kind now). I still need to get forscan and code in the new battery specs, just like I had to do with my e90 330i when installing a new battery.

Naw all you need to do in our cars is swap the battery.

 

[Dialcaliper]

The battery in my 2018 that i just bought is original, and I can tell it is dying (6 years old). After doing too much reading, going back and forth between AGM/lithium, and taking cost into account, I decided on a 15lb Deka battery, ETX20L. Apparently they make this battery for most auto parts stores, including braille, napa (napa legend premium agm) and autozone (duralast gold agm), and probably the oreilly battery also. It is 310CCA, 17.5Ah @ C/10 discharge rate, and weighs 15lbs, much lighter than the stock 31lb brick. The cost was $120, which is much less than the 5lb shorai LFX36L3-BS12 and costs $325 ish. I will monitor the voltage and performance of the Deka, hopefully it will last at least 4 years. I am in San Diego and don't plan on driving to a sub zero place any time soon, but I should invest in some good jumper cables just in case lol.

The other things I'm curious about is what is the draw on the battery in full shutdown mode, and can I install an automatic disconnect to remove the battery from the circuit once voltage reaches something like 12.2V. I have some experience with BMW Intelligent Battery System, and ford's is very similar (I assume all new cars have a IBS of some kind now). I still need to get forscan and code in the new battery specs, just like I had to do with my e90 330i when installing a new battery.

As above, you should do pedal dance after installing the new battery to reset the battery monitor so the logic that accounts for battery aging gets reset., but otherwise no need to reconfigure anything. There might be settings visible in Forscan for other Ford vehicles, but in ours that setting does nothing if it’s even visible in yours.

Pedal reset: Turn car on without starting engine. After dash has completed its initial light blinking, pull turn signal to flash the brights 5 times, then press the brake pedal 3 times. Wait. After a few seconds the battery indicator light on the dash will blink and then go steady. Then start engine.

If you do end up using an AGM battery, for best battery life, you should put it on an AGM specific charger (higher float voltage) once every few months. Our BMS is tuned more for fuel economy and emissions (doesn’t fully charge on cold starts), which is not great for retaining capacity in AGM type batteries especially if you have lots of short trips/commutes.

I’m using a Braille 21lb battery, similar to the Deka. Not the lightest choice, but it’s working well for a daily driver now that I’ve been doing the periodic charge with a wall charger. First one actually degraded after only a year as my commute is 12 miles and other trips that are even shorter.

 

[ronniec687]

I was in the market for a new lighter weight battery as well. I decided to pull the trigger on the Odyssey PC680. Ordered it from FCPEuro.com. Price is reasonable and they offer a nice battery box to go with it. Total of Battery with box and terminals $299.13 shipped. I feel thats very fair.

 

[WannabeST]

I was in the market for a new lighter weight battery as well. I decided to pull the trigger on the Odyssey PC680. Ordered it from FCPEuro.com. Price is reasonable and they offer a nice battery box to go with it. Total of Battery with box and terminals $299.13 shipped. I feel thats very fair.

also you get the benefit of the amazing warranty program fcpeuro offers

 

[jivenene]

I was in the market for a new lighter weight battery as well. I decided to pull the trigger on the Odyssey PC680. Ordered it from FCPEuro.com. Price is reasonable and they offer a nice battery box to go with it. Total of Battery with box and terminals $299.13 shipped. I feel thats very fair.

Wow that's a great deal! I didn't even think of checking FCP... have bought things there before, great company! Good luck with install, let us know how it goes.

 

[jivenene]

As above, you should do pedal dance after installing the new battery to reset the battery monitor so the logic that accounts for battery aging gets reset., but otherwise no need to reconfigure anything. There might be settings visible in Forscan for other Ford vehicles, but in ours that setting does nothing if it’s even visible in yours.

Pedal reset: Turn car on without starting engine. After dash has completed its initial light blinking, pull turn signal to flash the brights 5 times, then press the brake pedal 3 times. Wait. After a few seconds the battery indicator light on the dash will blink and then go steady. Then start engine.

If you do end up using an AGM battery, for best battery life, you should put it on an AGM specific charger (higher float voltage) once every few months. Our BMS is tuned more for fuel economy and emissions (doesn’t fully charge on cold starts), which is not great for retaining capacity in AGM type batteries especially if you have lots of short trips/commutes.

I’m using a Braille 21lb battery, similar to the Deka. Not the lightest choice, but it’s working well for a daily driver now that I’ve been doing the periodic charge with a wall charger. First one actually degraded after only a year as my commute is 12 miles and other trips that are even shorter.

thanks for the info about the BMS reset. I will monitor the battery voltage over time to see what happens. Good tip about the periodic charging, now I need to look for a charger! From my past reading, seems like Ctek and Noco have quality products, but haven't looked recently. I'm always looking for midrange stuff, not cheap, not premium, but solid and well engineered.

 

[Dialcaliper]

thanks for the info about the BMS reset. I will monitor the battery voltage over time to see what happens. Good tip about the periodic charging, now I need to look for a charger! From my past reading, seems like Ctek and Noco have quality products, but haven't looked recently. I'm always looking for midrange stuff, not cheap, not premium, but solid and well engineered.

I’ve been having really good luck with CTek MUS 4.3 charger so far (basically the same as MXS 5.0)

 

[ronniec687]

Wow that's a great deal! I didn't even think of checking FCP... have bought things there before, great company! Good luck with install, let us know how it goes.

Thanks I definitely will. Worse case scenario ill end up having to make an adapter plate for the new battery mount to mount to the stock mounting bolts. That should be easy peasy considering I have the old battery box so i can get the location of those holes from that. Maybe ill make a few extras just incase others go the same route. Ill keep you posted.😎

 

[OSFIST]

I just bought the Mele Design battery box, and I'm having trouble mounting it. The holes in the lower mounting plate do not line up with the holes in the bottom of the battery box, and the wiring harness for the ECM won't let it get anywhere near where it's supposed to mount to the new battery box. Any suggestions before I send this back?

 

[ronniec687]

I just bought the Mele Design battery box, and I'm having trouble mounting it. The holes in the lower mounting plate do not line up with the holes in the bottom of the battery box, and the wiring harness for the ECM won't let it get anywhere near where it's supposed to mount to the new battery box. Any suggestions before I send this back?

You can do what i did and make a mounting plate that mounts to the factory locations and will work with that aftermarket battery box. Also ecu bolts to the left underside of this plate.

 

[Volumetrik]

Wow, great work on that baseplate. Looks super clean.

 

[SLC46]

The battery in my 2018 that i just bought is original, and I can tell it is dying (6 years old). After doing too much reading, going back and forth between AGM/lithium, and taking cost into account, I decided on a 15lb Deka battery, ETX20L. Apparently they make this battery for most auto parts stores, including braille, napa (napa legend premium agm) and autozone (duralast gold agm), and probably the oreilly battery also. It is 310CCA, 17.5Ah @ C/10 discharge rate, and weighs 15lbs, much lighter than the stock 31lb brick. The cost was $120, which is much less than the 5lb shorai LFX36L3-BS12 and costs $325 ish. I will monitor the voltage and performance of the Deka, hopefully it will last at least 4 years. I am in San Diego and don't plan on driving to a sub zero place any time soon, but I should invest in some good jumper cables just in case lol.

The other things I'm curious about is what is the draw on the battery in full shutdown mode, and can I install an automatic disconnect to remove the battery from the circuit once voltage reaches something like 12.2V. I have some experience with BMW Intelligent Battery System, and ford's is very similar (I assume all new cars have a IBS of some kind now). I still need to get forscan and code in the new battery specs, just like I had to do with my e90 330i when installing a new battery.

How has that been for you?
I have a daily that i will track day with, i dont drive too far at the moment and sometimes i dont drive everyday.

https://www.archerbatteries.com.au/deka-etx20l
This is the same battery yeah? Because this one is listed as 5.7kg (12.54lbs) which is less than the 15 pounds that you said.

 

[SLC46]

I've never looked into batteries, can anyone confirm the following please.

This is the PC680 that you guys have yeah?
https://au.jbtools.com/odyssey-battery-performance-battery-ods-agm16l/

Will this fit and work in our ST180's?
https://frankiesautoelectrics.com.a...8vYnaKgoxVQJ0Y3HCrjqesaAifzEALw_wcB#content-0