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Motor oil

M-Sport fan

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#21
Hear any extra valve clatter on cold start? Your oil is too heavy or/and not clingy enough. Mix-in a lighter weight. Extra valve clatter at hot temperatures means you need more heavier weight oil. The ears see what the eyes cannot.

EDIT: Fuel injected vehicles have a feature for clearing an engine flood. I take advantage of that for start following an oil change or lengthy sit. Hold accelerator before beginning, and during the engine crank. That shuts off the fuel injectors but keeps cranking. That eliminates the brief moment of valve clatter following an oil change.
I do this procedure after EVERY full oil change. [twothumb] [wink]
 


M-Sport fan

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#22
Well to each their own, choose ya poison. Ive personally had spectacular results when paying attention to the HTHS and the TBN in all my turbo cars, albeit this is my first DI turbo so its my least knowledgeable configuration. Still learning:)

From what i understand as long as the kinematic Vi is reasonable, then swing away with a slightly above normal hths to combat pushing the car hard weekly, hybrid/BT or not. I use a s280 and i dont know if i consider it BT but it is bigger than stock lol

ya i dont mess with “extended mileage” oils, mostly “boutique” as you would put it lol.

yeaup stay away from a saps

i run e40 yearly and a high TBN helps with the aforementioned fuel dilution/moisture accumulation.

How does the raven look after an “extended” oci like say maybe 6/10k? Dont think I’ve seen too many UOA’s personally but not denying they are out there.

I am pretty skeptical of Ti compounds in my oil, I’m a fan of a nice amount of moly when it comes to the additives.

I have not yet done a oil analysis on any Ravenol, and I never go beyond a 5K mile max OCIs either, 'total waste' or not. [wink]
I consider it very cheap 'insurance' as compared to potential wear on turbo impeller/turbine shaft/bearing wear, ring land wear, and even our HPFP tappet wear from 'pushing' an OCI.

The Ravenol top tier oils (all of their 'USVO' oils) all have a big dose of trimer moly, as well as some tungsten, (which I am sure you are also 'skeptical' about[wink]) in it's anti-friction/anti-wear ad pack.

They also use a decent percentage of group 5/esters for their base stock, along with the majority group4/PAO base stock.

All VERY low volatility, very low SAPS, and higher natural (with little to no added, shear prone, V.I. improvers, yeah, even the much better, improved, 'modern' ones!) viscosity index oils. [:)]
 


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#23
I have not yet done a oil analysis on any Ravenol, and I never go beyond a 5K mile max OCIs either, 'total waste' or not. [wink]
I consider it very cheap 'insurance' as compared to potential wear on turbo impeller/turbine shaft/bearing wear, ring land wear, and even our HPFP tappet wear from 'pushing' an OCI.

The Ravenol top tier oils (all of their 'USVO' oils) all have a big dose of trimer moly, as well as some tungsten, (which I am sure you are also 'skeptical' about[wink]) in it's anti-friction/anti-wear ad pack.

They also use a decent percentage of group 5/esters for their base stock, along with the majority group4/PAO base stock.

All VERY low volatility, very low SAPS, and higher natural (with little to no added, shear prone, V.I. improvers, yeah, even the much better, improved, 'modern' ones!) viscosity index oils. [:)]
I used to not go over 3500,4000 miles on my cars but after doing so many UOA’s and seeing the results of following my own guidelines i have found dumping before 5k is a complete waste for my personal situation. I think i like dumping and adding fresh oil more than anything else car related haha.

Currently have Amsoil Sig Series in the car, but for the longest time i used the ester/pao based redline/motul oils. Having made the switch to e40 all year, esters dont live well when running E, so i use group IV oils instead of the ester/polyglycol/silicone group V oils i once used in my RHD subies.
 


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Armenia
#25
There are climates in this land where you would not want a 3.8 HTHSV, or even a 3.5 HTHSV in the winter time, and maybe not even a 3.8 in the summer, outside of the deep south/southwest, unless you are open tracking for multiple sessions per day, with an upgraded hybrid/big turbo.

Some on here are using a lighter 0W/5W-40 with an HTHSV of about 4.0 for the above conditions, especially without an aftermarket, air to oil cooler.

I sometimes use the Ravenol RSP 5W-30 with a 3.5 HTHSV for my summer OCI, and their straight DXG 5W-30 (~3.1 HTHSV) for the winter OCI. For recommendations on where to buy these oils, you might want to check MJM Engines reviews for insights.
I agree with the high starting TBN to combat/stave off the acids formed from moisture and fuel dilution. [thumb]

These high(er) starting TBNs are usually found in the 'EP' (extended protection) labeled major brand oils found on the Wal Mart shelf, if one does not want to bother with the more costly/mail order 'boutique' type oils like Ravenol or Amsoil Signature Series.

But ONLY if the oil gets there without using a big calcium content in the additive/detergent pack, and instead uses boron, magnesium, and possibly a titanium compound as a substitute, in order to avoid the LSPI problems exacerbated by big sulfated ash oil levels in turbo direct injection engines. [wink]
It looks like the price has increased since my last purchase in January. The Volvo 0W-30 used to be around £50 for 6 liters, but it’s now approaching £70. Does anyone know of a good place to buy Volvo oil or Castrol?
 


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Morris, CT, USA
#26
I just ordered 12 quarts of Kendall GT-1 Max 5W-30 from Petroleum Service Company for $72.01 Shipped. Have yet to try this oil but from what I’ve read it’s worth giving a shot.
 


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Intuit

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#27
Don't know about the motor oil, but the Kendall Blu bearing grease was very good.
Let us know what you think of the engine oil.
 


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Morris, CT, USA
#29
What are you going for with it?
Well ive done just about every mod i could think of to this car except a roll cage. From what ive gathered this is really good oil for turboed vehicles. The oil has a liquid titanium additive that forms an extra layer of protection to all moving parts (along with other addatives). Car has an S280. Going to be hopefully tracking the car up at limerock every now and then. Other than that she will be a garage queen because i dont have the finances to go all across the country yet. Just hoping this oil will help pro long the life of the motor a little bit. I will let yall know what i think about it after i get some miles on it.
 


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M-Sport fan

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#30
I just ordered 12 quarts of Kendall GT-1 Max 5W-30 from Petroleum Service Company for $72.01 Shipped. Have yet to try this oil but from what I’ve read it’s worth giving a shot.
@jmrtsus on here is a really big fan of that oil!

Great price for a great oil (and I am sure he will chime in to confirm that soon as well. [thumb])
 


M-Sport fan

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#31
It looks like the price has increased since my last purchase in January. The Volvo 0W-30 used to be around £50 for 6 liters, but it’s now approaching £70. Does anyone know of a good place to buy Volvo oil or Castrol?
Yes, the Ravenol oils took a prohibitive leap in price$ here lately, as well.
(It does not help the co$t that there is only ONE distributor for the USA/North America, either. [:(])

Why I am currently trying the LiquiMoly Molygen oil, but I may just pay the price premium for the Ravenol DXG 5W-30 (for it's superior longevity/other characteristics), if the LM stuff seems unsatisfactory.
 


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#32
Yes, the Ravenol oils took a prohibitive leap in price$ here lately, as well.
(It does not help the co$t that there is only ONE distributor for the USA/North America, either. [:(])

Why I am currently trying the LiquiMoly Molygen oil, but I may just pay the price premium for the Ravenol DXG 5W-30 (for it's superior longevity/other characteristics), if the LM stuff seems unsatisfactory.
I ordered this yesterday with regular shipping and it just showed up about an hour ago. They don't mess around.
 




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