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Another Oil Thread
- Thread starter RBYM
- Start date
I guess "high mileage" costs more LoL. At <80k mine is definitely not high mileage.
Been using Castrol the entire time though. BP makes good oil. Had 327k on a previous engine and it was perfectly fine using their dino/mineral (not "high mileage") oil. (lost vehicle due to rust)
Don't know what their additive package is for their gasoline but it stinks and have gotten way less torque out of it, across multiple vehicles in the past. Haven't touched BP gasoline in >10 years LoL...
Been using Castrol the entire time though. BP makes good oil. Had 327k on a previous engine and it was perfectly fine using their dino/mineral (not "high mileage") oil. (lost vehicle due to rust)
Don't know what their additive package is for their gasoline but it stinks and have gotten way less torque out of it, across multiple vehicles in the past. Haven't touched BP gasoline in >10 years LoL...
The detergents can make sense. These turbo engines dirty the oil faster than anything I've ever owned prior.
I don't have any evidence of sludge or build-up... though all I can do is peep through the oil fill hole and look at my drain pan.
My (perhaps not valid) concern with prematurely swelling the seals is, reducing their useful lifespan.
(very vaguely related example - https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/water-intrusion-issue-resolved.23553/post-512426)
Perhaps if I see some evidence of a need for it, I'll consider it. I think I'm just content with the non-mileage labeled product though.
Kind of an "if it ain't broke don't fix it" kind of thinking LoL...
I don't have any evidence of sludge or build-up... though all I can do is peep through the oil fill hole and look at my drain pan.
My (perhaps not valid) concern with prematurely swelling the seals is, reducing their useful lifespan.
(very vaguely related example - https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/water-intrusion-issue-resolved.23553/post-512426)
Perhaps if I see some evidence of a need for it, I'll consider it. I think I'm just content with the non-mileage labeled product though.
Kind of an "if it ain't broke don't fix it" kind of thinking LoL...
Im using LiquiMolygen on my next oil change on my Junk yard engine as soon as it goes in. ![[driving]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_driving.gif "Driving [driving]")
Molygen New Generation SAE 5W-30 | LIQUI MOLY https://share.google/nBNfdZutWT3yrVcH1
Molygen New Generation SAE 5W-30 | LIQUI MOLY https://share.google/nBNfdZutWT3yrVcH1
Last edited:
They are both fine engine oils.
The Magnatec is a lower cost option if that is a factor for you, and will be just fine for <5K OCIs.
The Edge is a more highly additized formula, and might use slightly better base stocks than the Magnatec.
It would probably stand up to DI fuel dilution a bit better, especially if you exceed that 5K miles on changes, but it is what, about $10.00 more per 5 quart/liter jug(??).
The Magnatec is a lower cost option if that is a factor for you, and will be just fine for <5K OCIs.
The Edge is a more highly additized formula, and might use slightly better base stocks than the Magnatec.
It would probably stand up to DI fuel dilution a bit better, especially if you exceed that 5K miles on changes, but it is what, about $10.00 more per 5 quart/liter jug(??).
if you really want to know, how the oil behaves, you should test the old oil in a tribotechnical lab (TTD diagnostics) - and compare it with another one, then you will learn how the viscosity changed, what particles are present etc..
unless you want to go this route, I would shorten the change interval, unless you have a very good reason to put a very high performing oil in the engine, such as racing Millers Oils NT+ etc
unless you want to go this route, I would shorten the change interval, unless you have a very good reason to put a very high performing oil in the engine, such as racing Millers Oils NT+ etc
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