2J Racing Down-Pipe Install Short DIY

[Izzy]

I doubt it will cook the cat as they work better hot, but don't know how effective wrapping basically just half of the downpipe would be.

 

[MOFiST]

Well the exhaust gas is proportionally a lot hotter near the turbo and then loses heat relatively fast. The only issue is a did see rust on the inner surface of the flex fitting of this 2jr downpipe so is prefer it open to dry out quicker. For me the wrap is dual purpose. Mostly to keep as much heat out of the engine bay as possible but also to aid in getting the best flow of gas from the turbo.

 

[Izzy]

I concur on the dual purpose of the wrap. Those are the same reasons why I want to wrap it as well. Did not know of the rusting of the flex section. Will not be wrapping the flex section either then. Thanks for the observations.

 

[Izzy]

Wrapped up!

 

[MOFiST]

Looks neater than mine. Nice work. Lol more fiddly than I thought it would be. I also know those cheap metal wrap ties aren't meant to be reliable so I used heaps of them.

 

[Izzy]

Thanks it took me like an hour. It's harder than it looks. Not forgiving at diameter changes. Now I know why headers and straight pipes are so much easier. There's 25ft. worth...so about 3 layers.

 

[cctman]

For the love of Pete... someone pray for me. Been at it for 5 hours and still can't get this top downpipe bolt out. Both the O2 sensors were easy compare to this top bolt. I pulled both bottom bolts but the third and last bolt is completely seized up. I think it's getting close to being stripped. It started to come out fairly easy a couple turns, then got real tough and then stopped I tried screwing it back in made it about one turn back in then it got tough again, then when trying to unscrew it back out it only made it one half a turn and completely seized up. Now it wont move either way at all. Any ideas on how to get this last down pipe bolt out? Its the one tucked under the top. You can't even really see it. I soaked it in PB waited a couple hours and still just as stuck.

If I strip this last top bolt, I'm worried I'm going to probably have to pay someone to remove the engine/manifold or something just to get this thing out.

By the way.. the downpipe is completely loose just hanging there, but there does not appear to be any stress on the last bolt.

 

[MadDarkStar]

Soak, soak, soak in PB over two days. Spray, spray, spray. Try to fastn it a few Millimeter to let the PB in. Should it come out, use a thread cutter to repair it.

If you break it, you have to remove the turbo housing.

 

[cctman]

Soak, soak, soak in PB over two days. Spray, spray, spray. Try to fastn it a few Millimeter to let the PB in. Should it come out, use a thread cutter to repair it.

If you break it, you have to remove the turbo housing.

I'm thinking of putting the two other bolts on and taking this too a shop and having them pull the 3'rd one out. Thank goodness I didn't cut the stock exhaust off yet. Do you know what typical level of effort/cost would be to get professional to do this?

 

[MadDarkStar]

The shop will break it, too. Make a fix price to remove it! In germany the kat removal is about 100-150 $ if you don't say it stucks / sucks

 

[westcoaST]

Try using a torch with MAPP gas or Propane. Get one of those mini torches so it fits in the restricted area. Cycle temps a few times, then when still hot, hit it with PB Blaster.

 

[MadDarkStar]

You can try Loctite freeze and release #8040. This will freeze the bold and break the rust.

 

[MOFiST]

Sounds like the bolt is cross threaded. It might be best to consult a shop for this unless your ready to go all the way.
That said I'd persist in spraying. A little movement then more spray. Back and forth it may crack. The bolt is in a bitch of a spot so heating it without hurting something else might be hard.

 

[MadDarkStar]

Then freeze it with loctite instead of heating

 

[MOFiST]

Then freeze it with loctite instead of heating

Never heard of the freeze shock idea before but seems it's not new. Could be worth a try.
[video] https://youtu.be/b0BaowQvL6c [/video]

 

[MadDarkStar]

I ordered it for my downpipe. But after just 2000 miles there was no problem to open. 2 went out easy and one a little bit harder. Now I can bite me in my ass, that I didnt't change the screws. I know, if i will have to open them in a few years there's no chance.

Sorry for the bad grammar

 

[westcoaST]

I used antiseize on mine when I installed my 2JR catted downpipe. The best way to remove the OEM doenpipe is to get the engine up to operating temp, shut her down, get the front end up on jack stands, spray the fasteners with PB blaster and let it sit overnight. A small butane microtorch will also work to get the fasteners heated up without disturbing anything else. Then, after removal of the fasteners, run a tap into the housing, and put nickel based antiseize on the fasteners. Then they will come out when you want them to later on.

 

[MadDarkStar]

I used silver antiseize up to 11100? degree, too. But the original bolts were not 100 % ok after first removing.

 

[cctman]

OK... some important advice for anyone wanting to do a downpipe DIY. I have a 2014 that is just now getting to warranty expiration. Not that it matters since like much of you I have already modified my car enough to make it void. But anyway, I did the attempt to remove my stock DP and ended up getting the top bolt gunked up in the shaft of the turbo outlet and it completely seized up. It got so bad I could not loosen it or tighten it back up. I called 2J Racing and they told me they get phone calls all the time with the exact same problem. If you have a FIST or FOST or other small turbo car, they produce a lot of heat around the DP turbo exhaust. When this happens the steal bolts they make now a days just don't hold up and end up expanding under heat. My theory is that over time the expanding contracting causes the bolts to become stuck when attempting to remove. Thanks to 2J Racing for helping and giving me some advice on what to do, but basically I ended up taking my car to a trusted local shop and they will probably twist the bolt out and have to retap if needed. The guys over at 2J told they get these phone calls all the time when attempting to remove stock DP on the FIST. They new what the problem was before I even told them what I did. They also told me you can take the turbo out through the top if you remove the manifold and exhaust. You should NOT have to drop the engine from the bottom of the car.

So word of warning. If you guys are thinking of doing a DP DIY, especially on a car that has some miles like mine. 35k. Make sure you prepare for worst case scenario of a 50/50 chance of having one of the three bolts seize up trying to extract them. On newer cars you may get by, because those bolts have had limited wear and tear. But prepare accordingly both financially and make sure you have a back-up car for when your car hits the shop. That's the boat I'm in now. Worse case scenario you twist a bolt off and the turbo exhaust flange will have to be retapped. That and you may have to pay or a rental or find a ride

Good Luck guys!

 

[Accel Junky]

Does anyone know how much weight is saved with this vs. the OEM downpipe? Can't seem to find that info anywhere.