AWD Twin Engine Fiesta

[TyphoonFiST]

View attachment 68581

It’s been a while since posting here but I’ve gathered most of what I need into my garage. Getting serious now about starting as I’ve been gaining confidence in a new daily driver.

As next steps go…. I guess I still need a new trans.
I could wire it up and try and start it, or I could trim it more. I’m leaning towards the grinder.

Guy Fiery is thinking so in the back!

 

[PapaJim13]

This “220k” mile motor looks darn clean. Haven’t looked until now. With good oil change intervals can the head look that good with that kind of mileage?

 

[Cneu]

with a solid oil change schedule i could see 220k looking that good

but i'm a bit skeptical of 220k on that. it does look really clean.

this thread is awesome btw. can't wait to see where this goes.

 

[Intuit]

Since it's not an ST/turbo, yes it probably can remain clean like that.

On a 3-5k interval some naturally aspirated engines can remain very clean. Had a 1.9L SOHC SEFI 88HP engine that was like that for quite awhile.

 

[PapaJim13]

Slow progress is still progress. I want to be able to run the motor out of the car so I built a test stand. I still have to figure out a trans mount so it sits right, but it’s together enough to move around the garage.
View attachment IMG_4686.jpeg

 

[PapaJim13]

The garage is quite the mess right now working on this among a bunch of other stuff.

I connected the engine wiring harness to the engine and the body harness to what's left of the body. Took me a min to untangle the spaghetti and lo and behold, nothing happens when I connect the battery. I figure the screen would at least light up with the battery "connected" (using jumper cables). I'm thinking it's a ground issue as the car doesn't exist anymore. I also didn't have the key on me, but I didn't see the theft light flash on the cluster either. I couldn't get a change in outcome regardless of where I moved/connected my negative jumper cable.

Does anyone know what the necessary grounds are to run the motor out of the car?

Is there a good resource to find those cool 3d wiring pics so I can chase wires? It's hard to tell what's what with no frame of reference.

 

[Intuit]

If the car has PATS (Passive Anti-Theft Security) getting it to run may be quite difficult because all the little modules need to communicate in order to authorize function. Even if they're communicating, stored/active codes can prevent operation. The 2014 manual linked somewhere on the forums will be for the ST version of the vehicle.

 

[PapaJim13]

If the car has PATS (Passive Anti-Theft Security) getting it to run may be quite difficult because all the little modules need to communicate in order to authorize function. Even if they're communicating, stored/active codes can prevent operation. The 2014 manual linked somewhere on the forums will be for the ST version of the vehicle.

I think it’s exactly the same, if not very similar to the st. It’s a push to start model. I had the keyless entry module disconnected though. Even with that, I’d expect to see at least the theft light flash.

 

[Intuit]

Wasn't aware that the ST has a security light. Having the roof liner out, removes an antenna, which sets a code in the BCM, which then leads to a host of other limitations...
https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/headliner-removed-interesting-side-effects.23500/
Had to hold the "key" up to the RFID sensor in the steering column when pressing the button in order to activate the ignition and crank/start the engine.

 

[PapaJim13]

I may have shot myself in the foot when cutting the car apart. I cut that headliner connection out of the wiring harness as I thought it wasn’t needed (stupid) and also threw away the center console and attached wiring for the key antenna. If those parts were specific to my key I’m thinking I’m SOL.

It’s probably easier to go standalone in my case anyway. I’ll start reaching out to companies about it. Any recommendations?

 

[Intuit]

I'd assume any antenna of the same part number to work without reprogramming the BCM. Anyway the one in the steering column should be the only one you'd require for now. Reading the codes in the BCM will let you know what to go after.