Boost loss

[jayrod1980]

So I noticed over the winter that my car would not push past 18 or so PSI. Prior to that, with my tune I saw up to 24 psi at times if I stabbed the throttle in 6 gear. No matter what now I’m at 17 psi or less and mpg have been a little worse as well. I’ve done nothing new to the car in at least 2 years. I never had a problem with my hard lines or any of that either. I change my plugs out every 12-15k as well. The only thing I can think of is maybe it’s something with my GFB DV+. I’ve not serviced it since I put it in over 20k miles ago. Could it be the culprit? Thinking of buying a Forge recirc valve just to see, but don’t want to drop $250 on a trial.

Car is a 2016, Tuned by Adam at Tune+ and about 60k miles.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Have you updated your accessport lately?

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[jayrod1980]

I haven’t updated it since probably 2018. My car sat for awhile in 2019 while I was deployed. My wife drove it a bit to keep the gas fresh, but I got home and changed the oil last summer and didn’t notice any changes. I was getting some ignition correction a little after that and turned out my tune+ sourced plugs were way out of spec on gap and I returned to stockers. Wish I would have paid attention to the boost then, but it’s been low now for over 6 months. With the weather getting warmer, max boost is even less.

 

[jayrod1980]

Just read a thread about access port switching maps with tunes.

I recently changed my brakes and flushed them incorrectly. I ended up breaking my cruise control sensor from pulling up on my brake pedal. Replaced that and used the access port to bleed my abs sensors. Everything’s good now in brake land.

Anyway, I did a lot of pressing buttons on the cruise stalk during that time. I’m going to go update the port and reflash my tune and see if that changes anything.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

How did you use the accesport to bleed your brakes? I wanna know how....right now!

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[jayrod1980]

Sorry, brain fart. I did that with Forscan. And I still have low boost. Don’t know how accurate the access port is on hp and torque but it was low too... 170 hp and 200 lb ft for the bolt ons I have. I bought a turbosmart from whoosh, we will see if this fixes it.

How did you use the accesport to bleed your brakes? I wanna know how....right now!

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[jayrod1980]

So replaced the bypass valve with the Turbosmart... and lord do I hate changing those out. It’s more responsive and sounds nice, but I’m unable to crack more than 17.5psi with Tune+ tune, dhm IC, Catback exhaust, green drop in filter and hard pipes. I used to be able to clear more than 20 psi briefly in 6th on the highway, and it seemed to spook faster. I guess I’m going to have to tighten up all of my flanges.

Could spark plugs lower my boost? Usually when the plugs are toast, the car gets a lot of misfires. I used to run a step colder, but now I’m back on the stock OEM motorcraft plugs.

Any advice is appreciated.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Did you revert back to the stock tune to see if it drive like it should ? Try that and see what happens. Or revert back to a COBB stage 3 tune.

 

[SerialBrain2]

do a boost leak test, spray all the connections with soapy water, tighten every clamp and see if one turns easily. you will find it if its there...just follow the path of air from the turbo to the throttle body

 

[PunkST]

Is it an aftermarket or stock wastegate? Might have damaged the gate internally. Could be the solenoid to the gate, or one of the lines down there.

 

[jayrod1980]

I have the Tune+ modified wastegate spring. I can say after switching between a Turbosmart plumbback and the stock/DV+ bypass valve, it’s not that item. I also removed, cleaned, and tightened all of my IC piping, both hot and cold side. Only thing I can think of now is that it’s either coils, spark plugs, or the wastegate. The coils and plugs are easy, but I don’t even know where to go about the wastegate. All I know is that the car won’t do more than 16.49psi, no matter the gear. I have shitty 91 octane gas, but in the past have been able to reach 21psi on this car even in hot weather.

 

[the duke]

Your access port should be able to datalog. You could pull the information from the ECU and see what's being retarded, pulled, or reduced. Won't directly tell you what the problem is, but it can help point you towards the root cause.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Have you money shifted the car lately?

 

[jayrod1980]

Have you money shifted the car lately?

Forgive my ignorance but what is a money shift? I don’t beat on or race my car at all. The most I do is gun it getting on the freeway. I try not to beat on my transmission.

Probably not good to throw money at the problem, but I probably should change out my plugs since it’s been about 10K miles and they are stock plugs (first set of stock ones since the car was new... been using various 1 stage colder from tune+ and whoosh since 5500 miles). I got the Brix ones this time.

What would a money shift do to my turbo? Other than the low octane fuel I have out here, I always change oil at around 5k with Castrol GTX, bigger oil filter, etc. My engine cooling is good with the Mountune radiator and oversized intercooler. I change plugs every 12k miles and I’m pretty good on maintenance.

If it’s not plugs, perhaps coils or wastegate?

 

[M-Sport fan]

money shift; mistakenly shifting into first gear from 4th, or into second from 5th, at high speeds, thereby mechanically over-revving the engine, zinging it WAY past red line.

 

[jayrod1980]

money shift; mistakenly shifting into first gear from 4th, or into second from 5th, at high speeds, thereby mechanically over-revving the engine, zinging it WAY past red line.

Nope, never!

On a side note, I know what breaking up at full throttle feels like... once with a bad plug on the fiesta, but more commonly with my wife’s EB F150 with a tune. What I’m experiencing is just the sound of hairdryer and boost not climbing past 15-16 psi on WOT pulls, even in 4-6 gear. I guess a compression test kit is next once I’ve changed out the plugs.

 

[PunkST]

Do you have a torn coupler somewhere? Maybe something has a worn hole. Perhaps the o ring for the bpv ( if still stock) is deformed and leaking. Could be a bad line on the boost solenoid, could be a torn wastegate diapraghm.

 

[PunkST]

Could be something connected to the IM has failed and is leaking. Or the mani itself cracked. It is just plastic. And could have been flawed.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Forgive my ignorance but what is a money shift? I don’t beat on or race my car at all. The most I do is gun it getting on the freeway. I try not to beat on my transmission.

Probably not good to throw money at the problem, but I probably should change out my plugs since it’s been about 10K miles and they are stock plugs (first set of stock ones since the car was new... been using various 1 stage colder from tune+ and whoosh since 5500 miles). I got the Brix ones this time.

What would a money shift do to my turbo? Other than the low octane fuel I have out here, I always change oil at around 5k with Castrol GTX, bigger oil filter, etc. My engine cooling is good with the Mountune radiator and oversized intercooler. I change plugs every 12k miles and I’m pretty good on maintenance.

If it’s not plugs, perhaps coils or wastegate?

Castrol GTX? Conventional? Should be running a Full synthetic with the amount of heat a Turbo and engine generate.You mean Brisk* plugs? When you press the gas....does it wanna build boost at all?

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[Ford ST]

What in the world do spark plugs have to do with boost?


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