Brakepads

[M-Sport fan]

You're not going to beat the factory pads when it comes to cold bite. Nothing comes close.

Yeah, I was considering the G-Loc autocross, or even their full street pads, but will probably go with the factory 'summer' pads (I'm still on the factory 'all season' pads right now) because of the above, yup despite the numerous dust complaints (the pollen gets all over them within an hour of washing in the summer, anyway).

 

[Lays]

hmm ebc reds are not that aggressive no? I like the orange a lot. very streetable and I don't find they make any noise at all.

For sure, that's why I made this post, lol.

I was looking for alternatives, ebc reds are like a daily driving slightly aggressive street pad, not a track or beat the hell out of it pad.


I sent an email to hawk, this was the response:

These are the most difficult cars to choose pads for…. Dual Purpose.

We would suggest DTC60 front and DTC30 rear for track use, and HPS 5.0 for street.

You *can* drive track pads on the street, but depending on how many miles and what kind of driving, they could wear quickly or eat the rotor.

The only other option would be the HP+, which would get overwhelmed pretty quick on track with how powerful your car is. It is primarily an autocross pad, not an all-use pad.

Let me know if this sounds like something you would like to discuss and I can help you with part numbers!

 

[juliog]

EBC pads are worse than OEM, and I'm not even joking. Anyone driving at speed will melt them right away.

I don't know what pad shape your BBK takes, but GLoc R10/R12, Carbotech XP10/12, or Hawk DTC 60F/30R (not HP+!) are fair options.

I'm currently on Brembo GT BBK with CSG C2 front and PFC rear. Expensive but works really well . Done a lot of trial and error on brakes on this car..

 

[Lays]

EBC pads are worse than OEM, and I'm not even joking. Anyone driving at speed will melt them right away.

I don't know what pad shape your BBK takes, but GLoc R10/R12, Carbotech XP10/12, or Hawk DTC 60F/30R (not HP+!) are fair options.

I'm currently on Brembo GT BBK with CSG C2 front and PFC rear. Expensive but works really well . Done a lot of trial and error on brakes on this car..

It takes D46, Ap Racing 7600 caliper. I looked into it, seems Gloc, carbotech,hawk, and most manufacturers all have options for it.

My biggest worry is that if I try to daily any of those really aggressive pads, that it's just going to chew thru rotors and pads like no-tomorrow

Link to the caliper:

https://apracing.com/performance-up...y-130mm-mounting-centres-suits-o295x24mm-disc

 

[juliog]

There's no perfect solution for dual-duty cars. The best option is having separate discs and brake pad sets but swapping before and after track days is time intensive.

That said, I've daily driven a Fiesta ST and a Toyota 86+AP BBK on R10/XP10 without excessive wear on pads or discs. They will make some noise if you aren't able to keep a transfer layer on the discs... heavily dependent on driving habits and how often and hard you need to brake during your commute. But overall R10/XP10 aren't difficult to keep bedded in, they warm up relatively fast.

Hawks have a reputation for more dust and more aggressive rotor wear compared to its peers.

 

[Lays]

There's no perfect solution for dual-duty cars. The best option is having separate discs and brake pad sets but swapping before and after track days is time intensive.

That said, I've daily driven a Fiesta ST and a Toyota 86+AP BBK on R10/XP10 without excessive wear on pads or discs. They will make some noise if you aren't able to keep a transfer layer on the discs... heavily dependent on driving habits and how often and hard you need to brake during your commute. But overall R10/XP10 aren't difficult to keep bedded in, they warm up relatively fast.

Hawks have a reputation for more dust and more aggressive rotor wear compared to its peers.

I may look into that then, I'll talk with Ron and see if I can buy a second set of discs for the BBK. My rear rotors are just centrics, so it's no big deal if I need to buy a few sets of those. Just didn't want to burn thru expensive 2 piece rotors if I can help it any, lol

Would you recommend I do R10 F, R8 R? or same front and rear?

 

[juliog]

Assuming your BBK was designed around the factory F/R brake bias, I would recommend using R10 both front and rear.

 

[Lays]

Assuming your BBK was designed around the factory F/R brake bias, I would recommend using R10 both front and rear.

Being that I have SVT rear conversion as well, still good to go on same front/rear?

 

[juliog]

Yes XP10 front and rear , again under assumption the brake bias is unchanged or very similar to original after all the changes. I'm not sure how an SVT rear brake conversion affects bias.

 

[ronmcdon]

It takes D46, Ap Racing 7600 caliper. I looked into it, seems Gloc, carbotech,hawk, and most manufacturers all have options for it.

My biggest worry is that if I try to daily any of those really aggressive pads, that it's just going to chew thru rotors and pads like no-tomorrow

Link to the caliper:

https://apracing.com/performance-up...y-130mm-mounting-centres-suits-o295x24mm-disc

Oh wow Whoosh is using AP Racing calipers? It comes with 2 piece rotors too? if so, what a steal for $1k

 

[M-Sport fan]

Oh wow Whoosh is using AP Racing calipers? It comes with 2 piece rotors too? if so, what a steal for $1k

Ron, is this actually the case??

 

[Lays]

Ron, is this actually the case??

Idk if it's for sure what they are, but I'll be damned if it doesn't look damn close, lol

 

[Jabbit]

I've got my Whoosh BBK sitting on a shelf waiting for install. I can take closer pictures of any parts if anyone wants me to.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I've got my Whoosh BBK sitting on a shelf waiting for install. I can take closer pictures of any parts if anyone wants me to.

Any small ap type markings/castings on them at all, anywhere??

 

[Lays]

Any small ap type markings/castings on them at all, anywhere??

I didn't see any on mine, but not 100% sure. The only difference I can see in the pictures is the bolts that hold it together. The piece that holds the pads down that has the arrow looks the same on mine as well.

Maybe they're different, but they use the same pad size as well, so I'd imagine it's either the same AP caliper or something else that looks damn close.

 

[D-resonant]

Caliper "AP7600-like", down to the four pistons.

Running Orangestuff all around on 300mm Whoosh BBK and rear EBC USR rotors. Nice balance for fast canyon, no unusual wear issues (no melting issue). No cooling ducts/deflectors. Can fade brakes with back-to-back triple digit hard braking (on Mexican streets...), but cools much quicker than prior stock front caliper/Orangestuff/EBC USR setup.

Additional bonus: less unsprung weight AND lower (by a tiny bit) rotational moment-of-inertia.

 

[Jabbit]

This thread has got me thinking...should I be replacing my "Red Stuff-like" Whoosh brake pads with something else? I don't want to swap in and out for track days, so I'm OK with something that isn't the absolute best for the track because I don't want to eat my rotors on the drive to/from the track or nice weather days.

 

[Lays]

This thread has got me thinking...should I be replacing my "Red Stuff-like" Whoosh brake pads with something else? I don't want to swap in and out for track days, so I'm OK with something that isn't the absolute best for the track because I don't want to eat my rotors on the drive to/from the track or nice weather days.

It's extremely easy to swap if you do decide to from the looks of it. I'd say try it first and see how you like it.

There's nothing wrong with it per-say, I do love the performance for daily + spirited driving, just not balls to the walls ripping way more than I should be on the street, lol.

 

[Snrub]

A Hawk HP+ is definitely grabbier than our OEM pads, but it's peak temperature range isn't as high as as the yellow stuff. A friend of mine tracked yellowstuff on a tuned Solstice GXP (300hp+) with a bit bigger than stock brakes rotors (15") and calipers and had fade. At that time I had a RX-8 (15") and HP+ pads wouldn't fade after 90 minutes on track. Not an apples to apples comparison, but it does beg the question if you're treating the road like a track...

HP+ are dusty and noisy on the street. They're certainly streetable, but they're a compromise. DTC-30 have a wider temperature range. I found them grabbier on track, even though Hawk's data graphs show that to not be true. They consider nthem to have a usable 0-100f range, while they don't with the hp+.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Is that range supposed to be 0*F-1000*F, above??