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Budget full coilovers from Godspeed
- Thread starter CMbuildz Racing
- Start date
Got em installed! I'll be doing a write up and first impressions later tonight but wanted to share a pic of after for now. I still need to dial the height but I have it now where there is no rubbing. Going to playing around with the adjustability a lot too. Took about 3 hours in total with a couple minor hiccups along the way (I'll post more about that in my write up)
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
@CMbuildz Racing any update on how they are holding up? Looking for coilovers and saw this thread, wondering how they held up as of now
I AGREE
Looks like BC, at least a few years back they made most everything out of Asia that was not Japanese but I was told they kept the best for themselves but many have had good luck running different lower cost brands, hope you do as well
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Advice from a long time, 49 years in fact, of modding cars, first lowered car was a 510 back in 1970 or so, I am the older guy into making cars look and work better.
Car looks a bit to low for optimal handling, you want the pivot point of the front ball joints to be slightly lower than the front control arm front inboard pivot point, any lower hugely effects the amount of grip as it will transfer nearly all the weight to the outside tires in a turn making it nearly a two wheeled car instead of 4.
This puts more strain on everything and makes the suspension far less effective as well and will wear out everything faster.
Once the ball pivot points are even the effect is significant, just a tiny bit lower on the inside makes a huge difference, one I have done real time testing of, 2 seconds difference on a 45 second autocross course is huge and the car was far harder to drive fast. The effects would be far worse on a bumpy surface and can be so bad at times become a serious safety issue.
I did not measure the drop on my car, I measured the pivot points then set it accordingly and set the rear slightly higher than the front going by the pinch welds under the rocker panels.
My car looks great that way, still have to be careful with the splitter, rides great, clears things better when junk on the road and handles good enough my buddy in his Nationl Championship C6 vette said he could not gain on me in a technical section of the track, he was blown away at how fast my car was there.
Of course it is your car, do as you wish, I just like to post these things up to help others be aware of things most modding cars do not know about.
Looks like BC, at least a few years back they made most everything out of Asia that was not Japanese but I was told they kept the best for themselves but many have had good luck running different lower cost brands, hope you do as well
----------
Advice from a long time, 49 years in fact, of modding cars, first lowered car was a 510 back in 1970 or so, I am the older guy into making cars look and work better.
Car looks a bit to low for optimal handling, you want the pivot point of the front ball joints to be slightly lower than the front control arm front inboard pivot point, any lower hugely effects the amount of grip as it will transfer nearly all the weight to the outside tires in a turn making it nearly a two wheeled car instead of 4.
This puts more strain on everything and makes the suspension far less effective as well and will wear out everything faster.
Once the ball pivot points are even the effect is significant, just a tiny bit lower on the inside makes a huge difference, one I have done real time testing of, 2 seconds difference on a 45 second autocross course is huge and the car was far harder to drive fast. The effects would be far worse on a bumpy surface and can be so bad at times become a serious safety issue.
I did not measure the drop on my car, I measured the pivot points then set it accordingly and set the rear slightly higher than the front going by the pinch welds under the rocker panels.
My car looks great that way, still have to be careful with the splitter, rides great, clears things better when junk on the road and handles good enough my buddy in his Nationl Championship C6 vette said he could not gain on me in a technical section of the track, he was blown away at how fast my car was there.
Of course it is your car, do as you wish, I just like to post these things up to help others be aware of things most modding cars do not know about.
I drove to my favorite exit ramp and I could hear the tires squealing which was odd, as that was a slow speed run. These need to get dialed in more in terms of height, it didn't drop at all. There's no documentation to use as a starting point. I measured the stock strut and made the coilover an inch shorter. The ride is firm but secure, and the strut is not flubbing around like the strut that was obviously shot.
I measured from the bottom of the spring to where the threads end just under the lower locking ring and mine are dialed in at 2.5 inches. That gave me maybe a one inch drop from stock ride height. I think because the spring is more stiff than the stock spring it will not drop as much as the stock suspension at the same height. However the suspension will settle over a day or so maybe 1/4 inch. For the rear I didn't measure it but I think I put the locking rings just under half the length of the threaded cylinder and then set the preload by jacking up the rear suspension and extending the rear shock to the level of the preloaded spring arm. One of the problems with coilovers is the need to tune/adjust them, it takes some time to get them dialed in. I did note during installation when the coil over was extended to far the sway bar was touching the control arm. This could be causing the squealing because the sway bar is interfering with the ability of the wheel to contact the ground... I'm new to suspension so take what I say with a grain of salt just trying to give you a starting point to work out the problem.
I can't thank you enough for your information!!! It saved me so much time as it was a big adjustment. I dialed mine in to about 2" exposed threads which was about a 1.5" drop. Doesn't look like much but what a difference that made. More secure through a turn with less body roll and no squealing tire, I am loving it. I'm doing the back struts tomorrow, anything I should be aware of? I'm hoping it's a much easier job than the front.
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