Clutch pedal sticking to the floor

[StacyAdams]

You have to transfer it. Two bolts.

 

[rallytaff]

One Week Update: Clutch continues to work as expected. Dodged an expensive bullet by avoiding doomsday advice. Affecting the repair in this way makes it much less daunting. Also, to reiterate, keeping one's foot off the clutch pedal in neutral when stopped and as well as in between gear shifts goes a long way in keeping the clutch assembly healthy. Hope this helps.

And now, back to anonymity...*out

The only time your foot should be on the clutch pedal is to change gear! No other time!

 

[yguy2000]

Hey guys, I'm looking for some help/advice. To preface, I have a 2017 with 45,000 miles.

First, I noticed fluid dripping behind and down my clutch pedal (see pictures). With the leak, the clutch and everything still worked fine.

I had a shop replace the Master Cylinder, as this is what people online recommended. And they bled and replaced the fluid. The leak is fixed, but now the clutch only comes back up about halfway. Clutch still works, and the car drives, but it feels super weird.
I took it back to the shop they reinspected it. To fix the clutch issue, they are recommending replacing the Clutch master cylinder. But the issue is, I can't find the part anywhere in America.

Why would the clutch pedal start sticking after replacing the Master Cylinder and fixing the leak?
I know this could also be a Slaver Cylinder issue. Is it worth trying to replace the Clutch master cylinder/pedal before committing to the slaver cylinder?
Any advice will be much appreciated.

 

[akiraproject24]

Hey guys, I'm looking for some help/advice. To preface, I have a 2017 with 45,000 miles.

First, I noticed fluid dripping behind and down my clutch pedal (see pictures). With the leak, the clutch and everything still worked fine.

I had a shop replace the Master Cylinder, as this is what people online recommended. And they bled and replaced the fluid. The leak is fixed, but now the clutch only comes back up about halfway. Clutch still works, and the car drives, but it feels super weird.
I took it back to the shop they reinspected it. To fix the clutch issue, they are recommending replacing the Clutch master cylinder. But the issue is, I can't find the part anywhere in America.

Why would the clutch pedal start sticking after replacing the Master Cylinder and fixing the leak?
I know this could also be a Slaver Cylinder issue. Is it worth trying to replace the Clutch master cylinder/pedal before committing to the slaver cylinder?
Any advice will be much appreciated.

View attachment 67783 View attachment 67784

Hmmm. I would have replaced the clutch master assembly based on the leak but if the master cylinder replacement resolved that leak....its very possible there's still some air trapped in the system possibly the shop didn't bleed it well.

 

[yguy2000]

Hmmm. I would have replaced the clutch master assembly based on the leak but if the master cylinder replacement resolved that leak....its very possible there's still some air trapped in the system possibly the shop didn't bleed it well.

I mentioned bleeding the fluid again to the shop, and they said they didn't see any air bubbles. Not sure how they would see them lol.
Would you say it's still worth trying to replace the clutch master assembly?

 

[akiraproject24]

I mentioned bleeding the fluid again to the shop, and they said they didn't see any air bubbles. Not sure how they would see them lol.
Would you say it's still worth trying to replace the clutch master assembly?

If it were me in your particular situation, I would bleed the clutch again myself first. Then if the issue persisted, I would then replace the clutch master assembly, (praying it's not the slave)

Currently I have the same pedal issue, minus any visible leaks and purchased a pressure bleeder kit and a clutch master assembly (I suspect the clutch master order is going to be canceled) as every other place showed it as unavailable.

From reading every available source of info concerning this issue, it seems like the bleeding procedure can take a few tries to get it right. If a shop bled the system but didn't pump the clutch after and rebleed, air could easily still be in the system. In my experience most shops do shotty work in an effort to save time

 

[RNOVRIT]

Sounds like air in the system as others have stated. Try a pressure bleeder. That seams to be the hot ticket on these.

 

[yguy2000]

If it were me in your particular situation, I would bleed the clutch again myself first. Then if the issue persisted, I would then replace the clutch master assembly, (praying it's not the slave)

Currently I have the same pedal issue, minus any visible leaks and purchased a pressure bleeder kit and a clutch master assembly (I suspect the clutch master order is going to be canceled) as every other place showed it as unavailable.

From reading every available source of info concerning this issue, it seems like the bleeding procedure can take a few tries to get it right. If a shop bled the system but didn't pump the clutch after and rebleed, air could easily still be in the system. In my experience most shops do shotty work in an effort to save time

I agree. I’m going to bleed to the clutch with a friend of mine to see if that fixes anything.
I was somehow able to find and order a Clutch master assembly today. So if the bleeding doesn’t work, I’ll replace the assembly.