Engine running poor after timing belt

[Jwerve]

I did the timing belt over the weekend right down to the ford manual. Now that the car is back together its not driving correctly. Not a single engine code. It idles normal but as soon as the clutch goes in its starts to bog down and stumbles for a second almost stalling out. Went for a drive around the block and it doesn't seem to accelerate at all, it builds boost just fine but no ass. I'm kind of at a loss here and I'm ready to spend my savings at a shop.... Any insight would greatly be appreciated!

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Did you use all the correct cam holding tools?

 

[Jwerve]

Did you use all the correct cam holding tools?

Yes! Actuator tool, flywheel lock, and crank pulley holder in place of the crank sensor. Should I post a datalog of idle?

 

[cidsamuth]

@kevinatfms, anything you can recall from our project that you can recommend?

 

[kevinatfms]

Did you use new TTY fasteners for retiming of the engine?

Crank pulley bolt, VCT sprocket bolts are all TTY fasteners that need to be replaced EVERY time you loosen them. This is especially needed due to the crankshaft and camshafts being of the keyless design. Any loss of clamping force can allow them to move out of time.

Another thing we encountered was the crank sensor that was nearly frozen in place. When prying on it did you maybe crack the housing?

Also check the crank pulley that the sensor tone ring wasnt damaged in some capacity.

 

[Jwerve]

Did you use new TTY fasteners for retiming of the engine?

Crank pulley bolt, VCT sprocket bolts are all TTY fasteners that need to be replaced EVERY time you loosen them. This is especially needed due to the crankshaft and camshafts being of the keyless design. Any loss of clamping force can allow them to move out of time.

Another thing we encountered was the crank sensor that was nearly frozen in place. When prying on it did you maybe crack the housing?

Also check the crank pulley that the sensor tone ring wasnt damaged in some capacity.

Honestly everything came out like butter. Yes new bolts for just about everything that came out, new timing cover new everything i really didnt cheap out on parts. At 135k now and nothing was really froze in place. But everything is possible, ill have to pull it apart AGAIN

 

[kevinatfms]

Id check the back of the crank pulley with a telescopic mirror. The tone ring is just a small slit in the ring on the back but if you insert the tool the incorrect way and tighten it down you can actually bend the ring in to where it wont read properly and lose crank signal.

Logging PIDs is another good way to watch the signals and see if any flat line when you tip into the throttle.

 

[shreddie van halen]

Please let us know what you find Jwerve

 

[Woods247]

Same problem. What’s the solution?

 

[kevinatfms]

Did you use all new hardware?

I’d ask did you follow the WSM for the replacement? It sounds stupid but there are a few checks that the WSM provides to make sure the belt or pulley don’t slip prior to final assembly.

 

[Woods247]

Did you use all new hardware?

I’d ask did you follow the WSM for the replacement? It sounds stupid but there are a few checks that the WSM provides to make sure the belt or pulley don’t slip prior to final assembly.

2J Racing did the work for me. They used all new bolts and have the installation tools and procedure from Ford. It seems like it’s a relearn issue. The car starts and idles okay until I depress the clutch. Upon pressing the clutch it’ll idle bad and nearly stall. Starting from a stop to climb my driveway is impossible without waiting for it to run for a bit. This all happens after coolant temps are warm at 122F. No codes, no negative corrections. I’ve replaced my spark plugs, coil packs, cleaned the air filter, reloaded the tune, swapped the e30 fuel for new e30 mix and verified the catch can isn’t leaking vacuum. It really seems like it’s a relearn issue but I’m stumped. 2J is researching as well.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

2J Racing did the work for me. They used all new bolts and have the installation tools and procedure from Ford. It seems like it’s a relearn issue. The car starts and idles okay until I depress the clutch. Upon pressing the clutch it’ll idle bad and nearly stall. Starting from a stop to climb my driveway is impossible without waiting for it to run for a bit. This all happens after coolant temps are warm at 122F. No codes, no negative corrections. I’ve replaced my spark plugs, coil packs, cleaned the air filter, reloaded the tune, swapped the e30 fuel for new e30 mix and verified the catch can isn’t leaking vacuum. It really seems like it’s a relearn issue but I’m stumped. 2J is researching as well.

What are the VCT-E Angle act" and "VCT-I angle readings at idle with the AP3? At idle while warm?

 

[Woods247]

What are the Intake actual and exhaust actual cam readings at idle with the AP3? At idle while warm?

I’ll check in the morning and reply to this post.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

I’ll check in the morning and reply to this post.

Also inspect the Intake and Exhaust camshaft sensors for internal failing/ Oil coming in through the sensor and oil getting into the connector*

 

[kevinatfms]

There is a crank relearn procedure called misfire monitor neutral profile correction. Id try that and see if it helps clear it up.