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Focus ST intake manifold swap on a Fist "how to"

JPGC

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#81
The turbo IS CAKE. I just opened my christmas/birthday present. We are supposed to be removing the cyborg at some point for inspection. I may just have to show you guys in REAL TIME how fast and easy the turbo comes off with my new Go-pro, lol.

The intake was not bad at all ( I was actually the assist for that one since it was not my personal car ). If we would have had a 5/16 ratching wrench it would have been a cake walk.

The part about the head that I would fear the most? The timing belt.
I wonder if ford has and/ or sells a cam locking kit like there was for the Zetec...if so, the timing shouldn't be that bad. Or at least if there are clear markings once the covers are removed.
Go Pros are awesome, I've had two of them and had a blast. The newer ones can be viewed and controlled with an iPad, iPod, etc.
 


OP
Sourskittle

Sourskittle

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Thread Starter #82
Its not about the cam gears.
Its about getting to it all from the wheel well.
Actually... My srt4 was stupid. I had to set it either 1/2 tooth forward on the crank marl or 1/2 backward. After doing it 3 times my dodge friend says, "ya... They are like that just set it 1/2 tooth off". I was like, "uummmmmm, I've been in the shop for 10 hours and your telling me dodge just took a random shot in the dark when it came time to put a mark for tdc on the crack sprocket !!!?" ( gear, not pulley, that would have been too easy ).

Wonder if our cars require a special tool to pull the crank pulley.
Loved that about my D16 honda. Pulley bolt was wicked, but no stupid special puller needed, it just came off...
 


JPGC

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#83
Its not about the cam gears.
Its about getting to it all from the wheel well.
Actually... My srt4 was stupid. I had to set it either 1/2 tooth forward on the crank marl or 1/2 backward. After doing it 3 times my dodge friend says, "ya... They are like that just set it 1/2 tooth off". I was like, "uummmmmm, I've been in the shop for 10 hours and your telling me dodge just took a random shot in the dark when it came time to put a mark for tdc on the crack sprocket !!!?" ( gear, not pulley, that would have been too easy ).

Wonder if our cars require a special tool to pull the crank pulley.
Loved that about my D16 honda. Pulley bolt was wicked, but no stupid special puller needed, it just came off...
It does sit kinda low and tight on that side of the engine. May be easier to access those with the engine off the mounts and lifted. Lol, more work.
 


RAAMaudio

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#84
Plenty of room to work but I just finished the cam belt, water pump, pulleys, etc on a 4.7 V8 4runner, the cams kept moving around when putting on the belt, sometimes quite a turn due to VVT and or engaging the valves. Once finally on I turned the engine by had to ensure it would turn 360 as it is an interference engine.

This car might be fun, pretty tight fit on the front of it, might be easier to pull the engine which I have had to do to swap a clutch before on a FWD, more than one actually.
 


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#85
If you do it right, it works awesome. But one slip could be your last ( bent every rod in my srt4 due to a bad BRAND NEW check valve ). Lesson learned. Injector higher than tank, no matter what.
is that trick to mount the tank lower than the jet to stop this happening? its one of my next mods, think I will be going for the aem kit on a 50/50 water meth with a small jet
 


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Sourskittle

Sourskittle

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Thread Starter #86
If the injector is lower than the tank, you have that pressure from gravity on the liquid in the tank pushing on the check valve. If your valve fails, like it did often on devils own kit, then that liquid will slowly drip from the nozzle. If you have 100% meth in the tank like I always did, then your intake manifold can actually FREEZE in a 105 degree garage from the meth. If you spend $45 on the latest greatest check they offer and it faulty right out of the box and put water in the tank instead of meth just to test the system because it normally runs meth and the car has been down for 4 months while you build a semi-built up engine, and the check valve still fails.... Then it fills your intercooler up while at work the night before thanksgiving, and when you leave work at 2am, it bends 4 rods in your brand new engine.

I'll say this.... Meth injection works AWESOME. In florida, its so unbelievably hot ( you have to experience it in person to know ), and meth injection just really does keep everything happy and cool. But if you slip.... Be ready to write some checks or rub some sore backs.

For the price I paid.... I'm prob gonna do it again.

I saw last night a few places have flow meters that detect when the fluid stops, and can drop your boost to wastegate settings. Its like $200, but it solves that issue. Mounting the injector higher than the tank solves most of the risk with a failing check valve.
 


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#87
is there an optimal placement for the meth jet, pre intercooler, post intercooler or intake manifold?
 


RAAMaudio

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#88
Interested in a TB spacer with ports for W/Meth injection, boost gauge, etc?

It is a product I can look into if enough people want one:)
 


OP
Sourskittle

Sourskittle

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Thread Starter #89
Our charge temp sensor is the tip sensor. So after the intercooler, before the tip sensor would be best. This will let the ecu see the temp decrease and increase your timing as it sees fit ( or stop it from decreasing timing in the case of our stock intercooler ). It will also let you see the temps drop on a scan tool or access port.

My experience sides with alky injection .com
100% meth is the best. Other places advise against it because their pumps don't like 100% meth.

I'm prob not going to be able to afford alky injection .com kit. So I'll prob use E85 with a cap of marvel mystery oil in it and a M3 nozzle.

50/50 mix or windshield wiper fluid helps keep it simple. And its not flammable like E85. And its way way more accessible for everyone.
 


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#90
Is before the turbo not an option to keep its temps down also?
I am in the uk so no ethanol fuels here, think most use meth water mix.
 


OP
Sourskittle

Sourskittle

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Thread Starter #91
http://youtu.be/NFU6KrSOe8U

This is new to me. I just found this last night.
Pre-turbo has always been generally a "bad idea". Water droplets can actually damage the compressor blades over time. But I guess some guys have found a happy medium.

Kind of odd though. I personally would prefer to avoid humidity (moisture in the air). It makes the air heavier. That's why you go the fastest in cold, dry air. So kind of weird to me to purposely inject water before the turbo. In one forum or another, the turbo has to pump that air/water. Only thing i can figure is that it removes so much heat that its worth the added weight to the air.

Either way, that is an awesome idea. Its basically using boost to pump the water into the turbo and using a nozzle to break the water up at the injection point ( like nitrous does to fuel at a wet kit fogger nozzle, only fuel is 50-100psi and nitrous is 900-1200psi ). The water coming out of the nozzle is running at a pressure below what ever your boost is. Then the nozzle necks the pressure down blows the water apart to mist it.

The pre-turbo setup is pretty much nothing compared to what a real water/meth system pumps in.
 


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Sourskittle

Sourskittle

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Thread Starter #92
Most use 50/50 mix here too. But they mostly do it because the kit builders recommend them to. The kit builders recommend it because its expensive to build a pump that can truely handle 100% meth.

I ate 2 pumps with my devils own kit. They claimed it was built for meth; but I knew it wasn't. It never really failed, it just leaked. I mailed it in and they mailed me a new one that was going to fail at some point again. I figured that they would either A) get tired of sending me free pumps and build one to fix the issue or B) stop claiming it was 100% meth capable when it wasn 't. Instead... I got option C) a hydro locked motor that broke my heart and made me sell the car after returning it to stock and fixing it. It went from a low 11sec car on nitrous ( 11.9 with the stock modded turbo without nitrous), to bone stock minus the lowering springs and fuel pump because they were more trouble to swap than they were worth to sell.

Hopefully, these new kits safety upgrades with help stop experiences like mind because IT WORKS. It works so well, despite my experience, I want to do it again.
 


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#93
I was going to get the Progresive AEM kit. Just need to work out what jet size for my needs
 


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#95
Not trying to get more power. Want it for lower temps, less carbon build up on intake valves and making fuel higher octane. Will not be running a more aggressive map so if it runs out off meth it wont be a problem.
 


MOFiST

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#97
http://youtu.be/NFU6KrSOe8U

This is new to me. I just found this last night.
Pre-turbo has always been generally a "bad idea". Water droplets can actually damage the compressor blades over time. But I guess some guys have found a happy medium.

Kind of odd though. I personally would prefer to avoid humidity (moisture in the air). It makes the air heavier. That's why you go the fastest in cold, dry air. So kind of weird to me to purposely inject water before the turbo. In one forum or another, the turbo has to pump that air/water. Only thing i can figure is that it removes so much heat that its worth the added weight to the air.

Either way, that is an awesome idea. Its basically using boost to pump the water into the turbo and using a nozzle to break the water up at the injection point ( like nitrous does to fuel at a wet kit fogger nozzle, only fuel is 50-100psi and nitrous is 900-1200psi ). The water coming out of the nozzle is running at a pressure below what ever your boost is. Then the nozzle necks the pressure down blows the water apart to mist it.

The pre-turbo setup is pretty much nothing compared to what a real water/meth system pumps in.
Cool video. I do wonder if meth was added to the mix pre turbo how well the seals will hold up. He only mentions water though.
 


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