Has anyone needed to replace this part?

[Sprinkle_Star]

If so, what was your experience? Also, I'm curious to know if anyone knows the torque specification for the bolts which secure this.

Part #: BM5Z8K556B

 

[Intuit]

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-cooling-system-bypass-line-adapter-bm5z8k556b

I assume you have some code for this cooling system bypass line adapter?

I don't recall whether it was the owner or service manual but vaguely recall something how the cooling system has like three stages; each allowing coolant to flow farther out from the engine as it warms up. (hellps decrease warm up time)

 

[TyphoonFiST]

My bypass valve was leaking right around the base near the Blue connector, When i replaced the Bypass valve I just tightened up the two bolts until i felt it get tight and then gave them 1/4 turn.

 

[kivnul]

Hmm, the 2014 manual does not look like your picture.


The breakout calls it a "coolant connection" but none of the procedures show it. =/



Below is the warmup that Intuit referenced:

Warm-up regulation is performed in four phases. Phase 1 or 2 occurs after initial engine start-up depending on the ambient air temperature.
Phase 1:
During an initial engine start-up with an ambient temperature is 60-75F (16-24C) or warmer (calibratable) the coolant shutoff solenoid valve closes and the coolant bypass solenoid valve remains closed. With both valves closed the coolant is stagnant and does not circulate in the engine (cylinder block and cylinder head) or through any other cooling system component to significantly decrease the engine warm up time. This reduces emissions and fuel consumption during warm-up.
Phase 2:
During an initial start-up with an ambient temperature 60-75F (16-24C) or cooler (calibratable) the coolant shutoff solenoid valve remains open. This allows engine coolant to circulate through the heater core providing cabin heat to the customer. When the coolant shutoff solenoid valve is open, the coolant circulates through the engine (cylinder block and cylinder head), heater core, engine oil cooler, transmission oil cooler, turbo, and degas bottle. Coolant is also routed into the thermostat housing which initiates the warm-up phase of the thermostat.
Phase 3:
The coolant bypass solenoid valve is energized and opens when engine coolant reaches (158F) 70C and the engine load is greater than 70% or engine speed is greater than 4,000rpm. When the coolant bypass solenoid valve opens coolant is routed through a coolant between the engine block output and thermostat housing. The opening of this coolant circuit increases the coolant flow rate through the engine block which reduces cooling system pressure and temperature fluctuations in the engine block.
Phase 4:
At about (194F) 90C, the thermostat opens and the coolant is routed through the radiator. However, the thermostat opening temperature is partially variable via the coolant bypass solenoid valve. The temperature around the thermostat and its expansion element is the total of the coolant temperatures entering the thermostat housing. Targeted actuation of the coolant bypass solenoid valve allows increased flow of coolant from the engine block to contact the thermostat element and allows an actual coolant temperature of between (194F) 90C and (212F) 100C to be set. During part throttle driving, fuel consumption depends heavily on coolant temperature. Closing of the coolant bypass solenoid valve makes it possible to drive with a higher coolant temperature during part throttle conditions.

 

[Capri to ST]

Hmm, the 2014 manual does not look like your picture.
View attachment 59445

The breakout calls it a "coolant connection" but none of the procedures show it. =/

View attachment 59446

Below is the warmup that Intuit referenced:

Warm-up regulation is performed in four phases. Phase 1 or 2 occurs after initial engine start-up depending on the ambient air temperature.
Phase 1:
During an initial engine start-up with an ambient temperature is 60-75F (16-24C) or warmer (calibratable) the coolant shutoff solenoid valve closes and the coolant bypass solenoid valve remains closed. With both valves closed the coolant is stagnant and does not circulate in the engine (cylinder block and cylinder head) or through any other cooling system component to significantly decrease the engine warm up time. This reduces emissions and fuel consumption during warm-up.
Phase 2:
During an initial start-up with an ambient temperature 60-75F (16-24C) or cooler (calibratable) the coolant shutoff solenoid valve remains open. This allows engine coolant to circulate through the heater core providing cabin heat to the customer. When the coolant shutoff solenoid valve is open, the coolant circulates through the engine (cylinder block and cylinder head), heater core, engine oil cooler, transmission oil cooler, turbo, and degas bottle. Coolant is also routed into the thermostat housing which initiates the warm-up phase of the thermostat.
Phase 3:
The coolant bypass solenoid valve is energized and opens when engine coolant reaches (158F) 70C and the engine load is greater than 70% or engine speed is greater than 4,000rpm. When the coolant bypass solenoid valve opens coolant is routed through a coolant between the engine block output and thermostat housing. The opening of this coolant circuit increases the coolant flow rate through the engine block which reduces cooling system pressure and temperature fluctuations in the engine block.
Phase 4:
At about (194F) 90C, the thermostat opens and the coolant is routed through the radiator. However, the thermostat opening temperature is partially variable via the coolant bypass solenoid valve. The temperature around the thermostat and its expansion element is the total of the coolant temperatures entering the thermostat housing. Targeted actuation of the coolant bypass solenoid valve allows increased flow of coolant from the engine block to contact the thermostat element and allows an actual coolant temperature of between (194F) 90C and (212F) 100C to be set. During part throttle driving, fuel consumption depends heavily on coolant temperature. Closing of the coolant bypass solenoid valve makes it possible to drive with a higher coolant temperature during part throttle conditions.

Very interesting, thanks for posting this. It's quite a complicated sequence, I had no idea that there was that much going on during warm up. I also didn't know that we had a transmission oil cooler and an engine oil cooler, that's helpful to know.
This also reemphasizes to me the importance of changing the coolant regularly, because it appears that there are a lot of parts and passageways that could be gunked up by old coolant. The manual recommends changing it every 3 years after an initial change at 6 years. I've just been doing it every 3 years.

 

[Sprinkle_Star]

Hi everyone, happy new year.

I've been meaning to update you all on what happened.

Last month, I discovered that I had a coolant leak and determined that it was coming from the water outlet w/temperature sensor I posted a picture of. I was able to extract the leaky water outlet and observed that the o-ring where it connects to the block was mostly intact, but it did look as though it would need to be replaced anyway.

I discovered that the majority of the leak was coming out from the temperature sensor. I could spin the old one around while it was still fastened by its pin, so I knew for sure that o-ring was shot.

Overall, it was probably one of the most challenging repairs I've done and I've had my ST since May 2017. I did go ahead and replace the coolant reservoir while the coolant was drained, since I planned to anyway this year.

If you all have any questions about doing this, please feel free to reach out - I mention this since the videos I found on YouTube were mostly helpful but not 100% confidence-inspiring.

 

[Capri to ST]

Thanks for posting. Did you replace the coolant reservoir because of an issue with it, or just because you considered it a wear item that should be replaced? I think it will have to be removed when I have my timing belt done this summer, and I was considering whether or not to just get a new one at that time.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I also didn't know that we had a transmission oil cooler and an engine oil cooler, that's helpful to know.

As far as I know, we do NOT have any sort of factory installed gearbox cooler at all (there is no requisite pump anywhere, nor lines going in or out of our transaxle).

My guess is that text is referencing the much more widely used Escape versions of our engine which were only connected to a slushbox (automatic transmission) drivetrain.

 

[Capri to ST]

As far as I know, we do NOT have any sort of factory installed gearbox cooler at all (there is no requisite pump anywhere, nor lines going in or out of our transaxle).

My guess is that text is referencing the much more widely used Escape versions of our engine which were only connected to a slushbox (automatic transmission) drivetrain.

Interesting. Is it definite that we have an engine oil cooler?

 

[Intuit]

I suspect that's pretty much required for anything with a turbo. It's the main reason the owner's manual warns against revving the engine while shutting it off; and I suspect a primary reason for the programmed rev-hang. They want that oil circulating through the oil-cooler exchange that the oil filter attaches to.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I suspect that's pretty much required for anything with a turbo. It's the main reason the owner's manual warns against revving the engine while shutting it off; and I suspect a primary reason for the programmed rev-hang. They want that oil circulating through the oil-cooler exchange that the oil filter attaches to.

It also helps to warm up the oil faster in really frigid temps as well, something an air to oil cooler is incapable of doing.

 

[Intuit]

Previous motorcycle didn't run the oil out to the radiator either; it had an exchange like our cars. During Winter the engine would run too cold so I began blocking-off more and more of the radiator. (tiny battery, wasn't engineered for cold weather) I started out blocking the middle/upper portion but the temps would fluctuate wildly. It then occurred to me that the lower 10~15% is the oil cooler and blocking that off might stabilize the temp better. Proved to work quite well.

 

[Sprinkle_Star]

Thanks for posting. Did you replace the coolant reservoir because of an issue with it, or just because you considered it a wear item that should be replaced? I think it will have to be removed when I have my timing belt done this summer, and I was considering whether or not to just get a new one at that time.

It was the reservoir that came with the car, so it was about time to replace it.

 

[Capri to ST]

It was the reservoir that came with the car, so it was about time to replace it.

Thanks, that's what I was wondering. So it seems like you are considering it a wear item that needs to be replaced even if it's not broken.

 

[Sprinkle_Star]

Thanks, that's what I was wondering. So it seems like you are considering it a wear item that needs to be replaced even if it's not broken.

My work vehicle, a chevrolet that is the same model year as my fiesta, was developing cracks in its reservoir and was replaced. I definitely didn't want any more surprises with my personal vehicle - especially after dealing with this leak. Have you had to replace your reservoir as well?

 

[Capri to ST]

My work vehicle, a chevrolet that is the same model year as my fiesta, was developing cracks in its reservoir and was replaced. I definitely didn't want any more surprises with my personal vehicle - especially after dealing with this leak. Have you had to replace your reservoir as well?

I haven't had to replace it, but I was getting your input because I've been thinking about doing it preemptively at some point. I like to plan ahead and think about what I'm going to replace when. I do generally agree with the concept of if it ain't broke don't fix it, but I like to balance that against making reasonable replacements of things that are likely to wear out or fail at some point, and will cause a lot of inconvenience if they do.
My car is 6 and 1/2 years old now, and when it hits 8 years old I'm planning to do the timing belt because it'll be forever before I get close to the recommended mileage. My understanding is that the coolant reservoir has to be removed to replace the timing belt, so I was thinking if it's going to be removed anyway, I may as well replace it with a new one.

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^There is also the factor, as Dpro points out, that the replacement parts for this specific car are quickly disappearing from Ford's warehouses/parts depots, never to be replaced by newly manufactured parts.

Now whether or not (or for how long) Dorman will still manufacture and offer their replacement for this exact part, or Pro Alloy, Mishimoto, etc. will still offer their performance aftermarket replacements as this car sees many more years of being out of production, who knows.

 

[Capri to ST]

^^^There is also the factor, as Dpro points out, that the replacement parts for this specific car are quickly disappearing from Ford's warehouses/parts depots, never to be replaced by newly manufactured parts.

Now whether or not (or for how long) Dorman will still manufacture and offer their replacement for this exact part, or Pro Alloy, Mishimoto, etc. will still offer their performance aftermarket replacements as this car sees many more years of being out of production, who knows.

I hadn't thought of that, that's a good point, one more reason to go ahead and replace things sooner rather than later.

 

[Intuit]

one more reason to go ahead and replace things sooner rather than later

...and then someone runs into you. 🙄 Did a bunch of maintenance to my motorcycle only to have it totaled in a rear-ender later that year...