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Hello Everyone!!! New Member here!!! Not Very Happy with Ford at the Moment.

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Rockwall
#61
If the dealer opened up the drivetrain and told you they were doing it because if a part covered under warranty they cannot then determine that another part failed and you now have to pay for them opening it up under the guise it was covered by warranty. They can probably justify charging you to put it back together but you don't need that, just have the car towed with the parts out to your garage and install the new clutch, they did half the work for you.

That is a broken clutch surface for sure, with plenty of life left in the material, catastrophic and sudden failure. But, there is allot of indication on the flywheel of some abuse or sudden engagement over the 17k miles. I've seen plenty of catastrophic clutch failures over the years on new cars but they always happen soon after purchase, like within 5k miles or less, one guy with an M3 had less than 500 miles on his before the material came loose from the backing.

Its a crap situation but I would encourage you to find an independent shop to install the clutch for $500-600 and buy a quality aftermarket. If its already been escalated to a regional and denied you aren't oing to get another answer without a lawyer. Once a lawyer calls and introduces himself to the situation then the dealer and regional will not talk to you and hand it over to their legal people, all the while you don't have a car.

I think your best bet is to argue that you were lead into an expensive disassembly by a tech advising you it was covered under warranty and should NOT be subject to any diagnosis fees, regardless of the paper you signed when you checked it into service. If you didn't sign anything then you don't have to pay them shit anyway. Simply ask the regional to give you the car back and you can replace the clutch yourself. I would propose mentioning that you think they did a "bait and switch" to generate swap fees by misleading you into a warranty covered repair knowing that they would be able to charge you book rates for the work on the back end, that may e a more effective argument.
 


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134
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Location
Langley
#62
Your right. Clutch is wear and tear item however a clutch should not fail under normal circumstances at 17K miles. Clutches should be good for 60 to 120K miles. I took my 2004 WRX STI to Germany with me for 5 years and pounded the piss out of the car on the Autobahn and one loop around the Nurburgring with no issues on the stock clutch. This car is marketed as a Street legal Rally car and so is the ST but it failed under normal driving by my wife whom is 50 years old and has been driving a clutch for 30 years. So she knows how to drive a a clutch. I personally believe that the clutch was defective or installed incorrectly.
You don't know how much the previous owner drove it. They could have destroyed it and then passed the car onto you. If it was pre-existing your purchasing, it is something you should have found upon testing and inspection.
 


OP
S
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Location
Haymarket
Thread Starter #63
You don't know how much the previous owner drove it. They could have destroyed it and then passed the car onto you. If it was pre-existing your purchasing, it is something you should have found upon testing and inspection.
Sorry, but I don't think you read the original post. Someone else here also assumed that I purchased the car used of which I did not. I purchased the car brand new. In fact I think it only had 11 miles on it when I bought it.
 


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Langley
#64
Oh, your right, my bad. I apologize.

That is odd, I hate to say it but it could be just driving style. It is a wear item so I wouldn't expect Ford to cover it. I haven't read anywhere else about clutch issues. Do you know if it is a recurring problem with other ST's?

Do you know if your wife is secretly street racing or autocrossing it?
 


OP
S
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Haymarket
Thread Starter #66
Hahahah...lol. No racing from her. Her driving style is not such that it should make a clutch fail prematurely. If the master slave cylinder was not engaging/disengaging the clutch properly then that could potentially lead to a premature clutch failure of which if one thing leads to another thing prematurely wearing out then it should be covered.
 


Intuit

4000 Post Club
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South West Ohio
#67
Master or slave cylinder seizing is highly unlikely. It may be possible to adjust a clutch pedal push-rod so far out that it keeps the clutch from fully engaging, but that would be quick and easy to to deduce, so long as the clutch master cylinder hasn't been fiddled with or removed in the course of the transmission removal.

This is something you may want to look at on the vehicle...
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q...=clutch pedal free-pla&sc=7-21&sp=1&qs=AS&sk=
...check to make sure that the push rod does *not* maintain constant pressure on the clutch master cylinder's "plunger" on the firewall. If it is adjusted too far out, you may have a case. But there's nothing to stop them from saying that *you* modified it.
 


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