HPDE/Time Attack build

[Jabbit]

With the size of the OEM turbo (And OEM stroke), it can be advisable to shift up earlier to get back into the torque band rather than wring the engine out to redline. Instead of waiting until 6250 RPMS, I find it better to shift at a lower rpm (sometimes as low as 5 depending on the set of upcoming turns) and let the toque carry me through.

This is very track dependent though. It also makes our cars great for autocross. Leave it in 2nd or maybe even 3rd on a fast track and the engine produces enough torque that 2500 rpms will be fast enough to shoot out of any corner.

Ok that makes sense. I use all 7k of the tach on track. Down the front straight at Thompson I get near the top of fifth before I get on the brakes.

 

[the duke]

Ok that makes sense. I use all 7k of the tach on track. Down the front straight at Thompson I get near the top of fifth before I get on the brakes.

Geez, I don't think the OEM rotating assembly can go much higher than 7-7500 stock. The turbo is well outside it's efficiency at that speed.

Hell, Ford slightly lowered the redline in 2014 for this very reason, revving to 6750 just isn't necessary.

 

[Jabbit]

Geez, I don't think the OEM rotating assembly can go much higher than 7-7500 stock. The turbo is well outside it's efficiency at that speed.

Hell, Ford slightly lowered the redline in 2014 for this very reason, revving to 6750 just isn't necessary.

I'm running a 2560r turbo. I'll have it on the dyno next month to see where it makes power and see what the most efficient shift point is.

 

[Jabbit]

215/45-16 RT660 on the left, 245/45-16 r888r on the right. I have lots of cutting to do! RT660 will be mounted soon. I have a stretch of 6-7 weeks mid summer without any events. Going to mount the r888r at that point to 1 wheel and see if I can get it to fit at each corner. Someone on Facebook is running 255s on 17x10 0 offset custom wheels, no spacers. I'm thinking this should be doable as I have zero consideration for appearance or resale value.

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^It also helps that those Toyos tend to run narrower in tread width in any given size than the RT660s or A052s do in the same size.

 

[Woods247]

The diameter of a wider tire is more of an issue than width. I didn’t do the calculation for your new size but if it’s close to stock or shorter it probably won’t be too big of an issue to fit 245s. 235/40/17 is taller and required lifting the car a bit to reduce the frequency of bottoming out the front and rear tires inside the fender wells (no liners). Longer bump stops might help too if you want to stay lower but I didn’t want to lose suspension travel.

 

[Jabbit]

The diameter of a wider tire is more of an issue than width. I didn’t do the calculation for your new size but if it’s close to stock or shorter it probably won’t be too big of an issue to fit 245s. 235/40/17 is taller and required lifting the car a bit to reduce the frequency of bottoming out the front and rear tires inside the fender wells (no liners). Longer bump stops might help too if you want to stay lower but I didn’t want to lose suspension travel.

It's 1.1" bigger in overall diameter vs stock.

 

[Woods247]

It's 1.1" bigger in overall diameter vs stock.

Ah. Yeah same as mine then. You’ll see what I’m talking about lol

 

[Bull Run]

At the peak I saw 215 which seemed high to me. I'm wondering what else, if anything, I can do to keep temps down. Removing A/C would definitely do it but I'm not willing to do that to another car again.

Do you think that replacing stock fan/shroud with an aftermarket unit will help with the airflow at speed? I don't track my car but I did the swap to create clearance for the Whoosh charge pipe. Weight reduction was a bonus. Maybe it's all in my head but I noticed that coolant temps sometimes drop to 183 before going back to around 190 while cruising on the highway and the temp drops back to normal quicker after an extended acceleration.

 

[Jabbit]

Do you think that replacing stock fan/shroud with an aftermarket unit will help with the airflow at speed? I don't track my car but I did the swap to create clearance for the Whoosh charge pipe. Weight reduction was a bonus. Maybe it's all in my head but I noticed that coolant temps sometimes drop to 183 before going back to around 190 while cruising on the highway and the temp drops back to normal quicker after an extended acceleration.

View attachment 55276

Interesting. I'd definitely try it if for no other reason that clearance. What did you use? Hoping for plug and play but I didn't that existed for this platform.

 

[the duke]

Wiring up a large(r) twin fan setup for more surface area would be the next move I’d guess. You could play with shrouding to duct and tunnel the exhaust but there’s little room to go it effectively I’d imagine.

I think k the only options are larger/more fans and a new larger core for the radiator.
Someone did some testing with venting the hood via a pressure transducer and tufts. It worked, but I don’t think it was enough to really. Be worthwhile unless you went full blown race car.

 

[Bull Run]

Interesting. I'd definitely try it if for no other reason that clearance. What did you use? Hoping for plug and play but I didn't that existed for this platform.

Spal fan model #30100385. I bought a pigtail to plug the fan into the OEM fan controller to make it almost a plug-and-play. Also makes going back to stock easier if this doesn't work out. Does fine idling in 90+ degree weather with AC on, the real test will be during the summer when it's 110+ degrees during the day.

More details here: https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/bulls-daily-driver-build.28005/post-488762

 

[Jabbit]

Been busy with a lot of other projects. Installed the BAF motorsports K brace tonight. Does it do anything? Idk. I think I'm going to cover it in stickers. Track day tomorrow.

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^Is that totally bolt-in, or is it partially welded-in?

I just ordered the Swave/Summit trunk brace from Ron, and I wonder if that above brace would work with it, even though I would have to remove it to carry anything large in the hatch area (if it is indeed, totally bolted-in).

Are you ever going the full (to sanctioning body safety regs spec) cage route, or does buying this brace act as motivation against doing that?

 

[Jabbit]

^^^Is that totally bolt-in, or is it partially welded-in?

I just ordered the Swave/Summit trunk brace from Ron, and I wonder if that above brace would work with it, even though I would have to remove it to carry anything large in the hatch area (if it is indeed, totally bolted-in).

Are you ever going the full (to sanctioning body safety regs spec) cage route, or does buying this brace act as motivation against doing that?

It's bolted to the same 2 lower holes that a trunk brace would go to. The top has 2 rivnuts installed on each side and it's bolted there as well for a total of 6 bolts. It doesn't seem like a crazy strong connection but it should suffice for lateral support.

No cage on this one - kids still ask to ride in it sometimes. Planning to put the back seat in so I can take them to a few local car shows, need to quiet the exhaust down first. I already have my next project lined up when (not if) this car calls it quits. No signs of that yet but I plan to push it hard after it's tuned on ethanol.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Yeah, I looked up that brace and noticed the necessity for drilling (somewhat) large holes and using rivnuts, so that is a no-go for me.

I would've considered the bother of shipping one across the pond IF not for that.

 

[Jabbit]

Yeah, I looked up that brace and noticed the necessity for drilling (somewhat) large holes and using rivnuts, so that is a no-go for me.

I would've considered the bother of shipping one across the pond IF not for that.

This one is similar - https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopif...rut-bar-with-tie-rods-kit-2014-2019-fiesta-st

I don't mind cutting up my car. No going back now.

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^I was considering that one, but I cannot find out if it is totally bolt-in, or if it also requires rivnuts for mounting (I forgot to ask Ron about that today when I called about the Swave/Summit trunk brace being in stock).

I also found this one from Steeda;

https://www.steeda.com/ford-fiesta-...CWEthICf0rtzvJm0RdWBarqrnoZphTcQaAstfEALw_wcB

But again, not having looked at that area of our rear shock towers closely, it is hard to tell if this could be installed without the need for drilling/rivnuts either.

 

[FiestaSTdude]

Been busy with a lot of other projects. Installed the BAF motorsports K brace tonight. Does it do anything? Idk. I think I'm going to cover it in stickers. Track day tomorrow.

View attachment 55601 View attachment 55602

It looks cool, so it must add horsepower, right?

 

[jeffreylyon]

^^^I was considering that one, but I cannot find out if it is totally bolt-in, or if it also requires rivnuts for mounting (I forgot to ask Ron about that today when I called about the Swave/Summit trunk brace being in stock).

I also found this one from Steeda;

https://www.steeda.com/ford-fiesta-...CWEthICf0rtzvJm0RdWBarqrnoZphTcQaAstfEALw_wcB

But again, not having looked at that area of our rear shock towers closely, it is hard to tell if this could be installed without the need for drilling/rivnuts either.

That one looks like it bolts to the top of the shock mounts. I can't really tell w/ the DNA brace. Because the shock mount has captured nuts the bottom of a bolt-in brace won't sit directly on top of the shock tower. I guess that the fix would be to pop off the captured nuts and run a bolt through the shock hat, the shock tower and the shock brace.

I have a K-brace that is supposed to mount w/ rivnuts but I'm skeptical about how effective a rivnut-mounted brace can me. If I install it, I'll use bolts and a backing plate for a little added placebo effect.