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HPDE/Time Attack build

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J

Jabbit

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Thread Starter #101
Car is fine! However the tuner had some personal things come up and had to push back a week. Patiently waiting over here...
 


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Jabbit

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Yes to earplugs! Made 275whp on 93. See attached. I'm the red line and a nearly identical S280 car is the green line. I'll post more details later.

EDIT: Removed the chart until I have better details on how it compares to the S280.
 


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Jabbit

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Thread Starter #106
Here is my dyno chart showing base tune on about 9psi, then 93 and e30 both at 20psi.

Track day 6/12 then the wastegate is coming out for investigation.

20230526_152714.jpg
 


OP
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Jabbit

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Thread Starter #108
Looks like it’ll scream from 4500 to redline!
Yeah it definitely feels strong but I'm bummed that so much is left on the table. The wastegate is not easy to get to on this setup, basically have to take the manifold and turbo all the way out. I'm debating just paying to have it done.
 


dhminer

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Yeah it definitely feels strong but I'm bummed that so much is left on the table. The wastegate is not easy to get to on this setup, basically have to take the manifold and turbo all the way out. I'm debating just paying to have it done.
Couldn’t agree more on the gate. I have had to fuck with my wastegate actuator pre load so many times it isn’t funny. This is one area the s280 and hybrids outshine Garrett kits in a HUGE way. 10 min adjustment vs 2 hours.

If it’s an ATP kit, they all come with a 12-14 lb WGA. I had the same issue initially at 8 psi. I’m guessing that the previous owner didn’t want to go through the trouble of adjusting it, but maybe not. I think you got the car from someone here, so maybe they’ve told you it’s 10 lbs.

The good news is getting my base map up from 8 to 12 psi on a 14 lb gate netted ~300 rpm earlier spool. I called that good enough and haven’t adjusted it again to get up to 14. I assume you’ll get a similar result or better, which is hopefully encouraging.

Easiest method I’ve found - Pull headlights, cowl, crossover pipe (if you’re not running a 2J), the silicone elbows off both ends of the turbo, unscrew the oil drain line from turbo, and disconnect the vacuum line from the WGA to the boost solenoid (at the solenoid end leaving it attached to the WGA). Remove all nuts from the bottom side of the exhaust manifold and loosen the top ones but don’t take them off. You can then tilt the whole turbo/manifold towards the firewall enough to get to the wastegate actuator pretty easily. Use an air compressor into the vacuum line to the WGA to ease up the tension and pop the circlip off. Pay close attention here, that mofo likes to play space-x and will try to launch itself into orbit. It’s almost impossible to find once it does so. Reverse the process and you’re good to go. I always hit the manifold studs with the torque wrench again while reassembling out of paranoia, but they’ve never moved on me.

Yep, it sucks but it’s super easy although time consuming.
 


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Jabbit

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@dhminer Thanks for the tips. Is that enough to get the wastegate fully off the setup or just for preload adjustment? I need to take it off to see what spring is inside. I'm kinda mad since I literally just sold my S280 kit last week since "taking the turbo off the car to swap is a pain" so at this point I would have just swapped kits.
 


dhminer

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@dhminer Thanks for the tips. Is that enough to get the wastegate fully off the setup or just for preload adjustment? I need to take it off to see what spring is inside. I'm kinda mad since I literally just sold my S280 kit last week since "taking the turbo off the car to swap is a pain" so at this point I would have just swapped kits.
Probably enough to swap it, but I can’t speak from experience there. You can get a good 4-5” of clearance though
 


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Ran a 1:29, new PB and I had a passenger. Coolant temps still hit 230 so idk what's happening. I don't want to cut vents in the hood if it barely helps, not sure if I have another issue.
 


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Ran a 1:29, new PB and I had a passenger. Coolant temps still hit 230 so idk what's happening. I don't want to cut vents in the hood if it barely helps, not sure if I have another issue.
Do you have an oil cooler on your car? I don't remember if you do or not. In most cars dropping oil temps will also lead to cooler coolant temps. I assume its because the car heat soaks less. Could be a good alternative to cutting your hood.
 


M-Sport fan

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Do you have an oil to air oil cooler on your car? I don't remember if you do or not. In most cars dropping oil temps will also lead to cooler coolant temps. I assume its because the car heat soaks less. Could be a good alternative to cutting your hood.
Fixed it for you with the bolded above. [wink]

All FiSTs come from the factory with the oil to coolant 'sandwich' cooler which could potentially increase the coolant temps under hard use heat soak.

I am fairly sure that this is what you were implying though. [dunno]
 


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Fixed it for you with the bolded above. [wink]

All FiSTs come from the factory with the oil to coolant 'sandwich' cooler which could potentially increase the coolant temps under hard use heat soak.

I am fairly sure that this is what you were implying though. [dunno]
you're right that's what I was implying. I should've specified lol
 


Woods247

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Ran a 1:29, new PB and I had a passenger. Coolant temps still hit 230 so idk what's happening. I don't want to cut vents in the hood if it barely helps, not sure if I have another issue.
Hate to say it but swap the radiator for a bigger one if you’ve already bled the Mountune and you’re certain it doesn’t have air in the line. I’ve had zero issues with the Mishimoto but I realize they’re a gamble when it comes to quality control. Koyorad may be a better option too but I don’t personally know anyone who uses it.. It would be less work and cheaper to sell the Mountune and replace it with a Mishimoto than cutting holes in the hood.
 


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Thread Starter #118
Hate to say it but swap the radiator for a bigger one if you’ve already bled the Mountune and you’re certain it doesn’t have air in the line. I’ve had zero issues with the Mishimoto but I realize they’re a gamble when it comes to quality control. Koyorad may be a better option too but I don’t personally know anyone who uses it.. It would be less work and cheaper to sell the Mountune and replace it with a Mishimoto than cutting holes in the hood.
I already have the hood vents but if it only does 3-4 degrees than not worth it. What method do you use for bleeding your coolant system? I followed the Ford procedure. Not confident in it at this point.
 


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I already have the hood vents but if it only does 3-4 degrees than not worth it. What method do you use for bleeding your coolant system? I followed the Ford procedure. Not confident in it at this point.
Hey Jabbit. Kudos on the PB! I am experiencing the same thing. I have a brand new mountune radiator with stock thermostat and running 50/50 pre mixed motorcraft coolant. I used a proper vacuum coolant drain/filler with a venturi and for sure have no bubbles and I still got up to 235 after 5 hard laps at 85 degrees. This was with my heater on full blast the whole time. The only thing I can change at this point is to go a higher concentrate of distilled water and add some water wetter. I also have an s280 with stock heat shield on the manifold and the downpipe so I feel like something else is missing for me. I am going to look at the oem ducting into the radiator and see if anything can improve there. Ive already taped up the gap between the fan and the radiator. I am starting to think about doing all of those things plus switching to mishimoto. California is just too hot!
 


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Woods247

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I already have the hood vents but if it only does 3-4 degrees than not worth it. What method do you use for bleeding your coolant system? I followed the Ford procedure. Not confident in it at this point.
I had a shop take care of mine because it’s outside of my ability… 2J Racing actually but I’d imagine Ford could do it or maybe a local race shop. 2J said it was a pain in the ass but it’s been flawless for several years now.
 




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