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Isabella de la fiesta

TyphoonFiST

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You can't really have those without idling the engine though.

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Thread Starter #144
Starting isn't necessarily idling the engine though. Your turning the crank at such a low rpm. It's supposed to be less stress. The no idle comes in when you start to break in the engine. Rpms at start should be around 1500 immediately followed by pushing the pedal until 2500-3500 rpms is met and never letting it sit at a constant rpm. They say do this for 30 minutes let cool check for leaks then go for a drive never exceeding 4k rpm for first 500-1000 miles.

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Rocketst

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Thread Starter #145
You can't really have those without idling the engine though.

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So I think I need to clarify. They say pull fuel pump and spark fuses and let the engine crank for 30 seconds. Let it rest then do it another time. Then put fuses back in and start breaking it in.

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TyphoonFiST

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But when you idle....the engine is at constant speed of usually 750RPM-1000RPM.

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Pumaspeed has been such a hit and miss company. They've definitely produced some quality bits, but also released some duds. From what I can tell the sentiment on this side of the pond has been one of skepticism, especially since the x47r issues. I genuinely hope this thing fires up and is rock solid for you, because if this somehow turns into yet another failed engine (hello eq5) I fear that'll be the final nail in the pumaspeed coffin. Fingers crossed buddy!
 


wetwea33

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So I think I need to clarify. They say pull fuel pump and spark fuses and let the engine crank for 30 seconds. Let it rest then do it another time. Then put fuses back in and start breaking it in.

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no need to pull the fuses tho. Just hold the gas and clutch down all the way and it cuts ignition and just cranks.
 


TyphoonFiST

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Just FOLLOW the Directions...just in case something does go wrong*




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wetwea33

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Just FOLLOW the Directions...just in case something does go wrong*


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I don't know why they give that instruction it's dumb every other turbo instruction for this car says to press the gas and clutch all the way at the same time to crank it to prime.

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shouldbeasy

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Pumaspeed has been such a hit and miss company. They've definitely produced some quality bits, but also released some duds. From what I can tell the sentiment on this side of the pond has been one of skepticism, especially since the x47r issues. I genuinely hope this thing fires up and is rock solid for you, because if this somehow turns into yet another failed engine (hello eq5) I fear that'll be the final nail in the pumaspeed coffin. Fingers crossed buddy!
Did I miss something?
 


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Rocketst

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Thread Starter #154
I don't know why they give that instruction it's dumb every other turbo instruction for this car says to press the gas and clutch all the way at the same time to crank it to prime.

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Wetwea they give that instruction because I'll be starting a crate motor for the very first time. I have to fill a completely dry motor and dry turbo with oil.

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wetwea33

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Wetwea they give that instruction because I'll be starting a crate motor for the very first time. I have to fill a completely dry motor and dry turbo with oil.

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I get that but pushing in thr clutch and gas all thr way will cut fuel and spark and just crank the motor that's what I've done on my last two turbos.

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TyphoonFiST

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Just FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS! End of story. Cripes!



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Rocketst

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Thread Starter #157
On other news.... Ford parts is really useful as long as you have a part number lol. Pulls up the exact diagram I need when I'm working on it.

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My mistake, I didn't realize you had gone with the mountune block. I suspect you'll see the limits of the turbo rather than the limits of the block, looking forward to it.
 


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Few updates. First is a picture of what ends up inside your intercooler when your engine explodes. I'm finally getting around to cleaning it cuz it's about to go on. Also current status of the car.


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Rocketst

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Tried to turn her over last night to cycle oil and well.... One solid click from the starter. I've swapped relays and fuses from I believe r51 and f36? Whatever the manual says starter relay and solenoid are in the manual and no go... I think my starter died. I've checked grounds too. So I saw there's 2 grounds that wire to the main harness and then looks like one ground wires from where the starter wires come out. All of those are hooked to the block right now. Battery is grounded to frame and it's been hooked to a charger/maintainer the entire time the cars been out of commission. Battery is reading 12.6v so I don't think it's that. What do you guys think? I did clean the starter with contact cleaner because when the engine went kapoot it soaked the engine bay with oil. Maybe that shorted it? I did arc off the ground once on accident but I didn't think it was bad enough to burn up a fuse cuz it just grounded from one part of the block to another. Also when I tried to fill brake fluid into the slave it leaked haha. When I switched slaves I didn't notice the missing o ring (it got stuck in the old slave). So clutch is still unresponsive. Got new lines coming in for that should be here Friday.

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