Isabella de la fiesta

TyphoonFiST

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Tried to turn her over last night to cycle oil and well.... One solid click from the starter. I've swapped relays and fuses from I believe r51 and f36? Whatever the manual says starter relay and solenoid are in the manual and no go... I think my starter died. I've checked grounds too. So I saw there's 2 grounds that wire to the main harness and then looks like one ground wires from where the starter wires come out. All of those are hooked to the block right now. Battery is grounded to frame and it's been hooked to a charger/maintainer the entire time the cars been out of commission. Battery is reading 12.6v so I don't think it's that. What do you guys think? I did clean the starter with contact cleaner because when the engine went kapoot it soaked the engine bay with oil. Maybe that shorted it? I did arc off the ground once on accident but I didn't think it was bad enough to burn up a fuse cuz it just grounded from one part of the block to another. Also when I tried to fill brake fluid into the slave it leaked haha. When I switched slaves I didn't notice the missing o ring (it got stuck in the old slave). So clutch is still unresponsive. Got new lines coming in for that should be here Friday.

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I'd take the starter out and bring it to the local Parts store to get it bench tested. But before I did that I would try it one more time. Then if nothing....take it out and bring it to Crapa...Oreallys or Vatozone.

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Thread Starter #162
I'd take the starter out and bring it to the local Parts store to get it bench tested. But before I did that I would try it one more time. Then if nothing....take it out and bring it to Crapa...Oreallys or Vatozone.

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I'm gonna try jumping it tonight. If it turns over I have a short somewhere if it doesn't it's shit and I'll order a new one

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Thread Starter #163
Bumpers about to go on. Got her started last night. For the future, if anyone buys from puma or pwnall, make sure the x57 brass plug is tight before you put the turbo in the car. It leaks pretty bad as it comes but tightened down no leaks at all. It's also under the oil line so it's a bitch to get to when the turbos already in the car.


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Thread Starter #165
Alright so here are the codes from first test drive. P0087 fuel pressure too low, p0236 boost sensor a circuit range could be new map sensor, p0330 knock cyl 2 could be caused by first code

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Thread Starter #166
Swapped out map sensor and these are now the new codes, p0012, p0014 and p0330
 


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Thread Starter #167
Alright so mountune may have screwed up. I had made a thread to try and get some help with the trouble codes and we'll, I'm stubborn as hell. All the advice I got, the number of people who told me the most obvious answer and they were more than likely right. I guess I owe them an apology. So according to ford the timing is off .18 degrees. Moutune says this is negligible and that a stock fist is usually off by about -0.2 to +0.3. either way it shows that even as little as it is it's making a huge difference in the idle and drivability. So Ford of course doesn't touch aftermarket parts so, they gave me a complimentary second opinion as in didn't charge me for the diagnostic and pointed me to a local shop that deals exclusively with very fast Ford's. I'm having them run a diagnostic as well to verify if Ford was right or wrong. If Ford's right and it is due to the timing, mountune is willing to pay for the repairs I need to get the car going.

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Fingers crossed it's only the timing. Ford did the same with me when having knock sensor issues. As soon as they noticed not stock turbo they referred me to a tuner/other shop.
Big props to mountune though, for paying for the fix.
 


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Alright so mountune may have screwed up. I had made a thread to try and get some help with the trouble codes and we'll, I'm stubborn as hell. All the advice I got, the number of people who told me the most obvious answer and they were more than likely right. I guess I owe them an apology. So according to ford the timing is off .18 degrees. Moutune says this is negligible and that a stock fist is usually off by about -0.2 to +0.3. either way it shows that even as little as it is it's making a huge difference in the idle and drivability. So Ford of course doesn't touch aftermarket parts so, they gave me a complimentary second opinion as in didn't charge me for the diagnostic and pointed me to a local shop that deals exclusively with very fast Ford's. I'm having them run a diagnostic as well to verify if Ford was right or wrong. If Ford's right and it is due to the timing, mountune is willing to pay for the repairs I need to get the car going.

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You’re going to want to up your idle to at least 1k with the V2’s. Too much overlap. That’s why I wanted a twin scroll.
 


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Thread Starter #172
You’re going to want to up your idle to at least 1k with the V2’s. Too much overlap. That’s why I wanted a twin scroll.
Hey mrx430, did you have any issues when you put in the longblock? The master mechanic thinks it's cam phasers. The cams aren't advancing when commanded.

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Hey mrx430, did you have any issues when you put in the longblock? The master mechanic thinks it's cam phasers. The cams aren't advancing when commanded.

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It’s not in yet and I am not qualified to give you an answer. What exactly is the engine doing btw? Is it a tick tick tick or a uh uh uh uh?
Just kidding lol. No seriously what is it doing?
 


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Thread Starter #174
It’s not in yet and I am not qualified to give you an answer. What exactly is the engine doing btw? Is it a tick tick tick or a uh uh uh uh?
Just kidding lol. No seriously what is it doing?
Lol, exactly as I described. Idle is fine, both stay at 0, exhaust and intake cams. When it's revved out cams desired timing goes up, actual stays at 0 for both cams.

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Lol, exactly as I described. Idle is fine, both stay at 0, exhaust and intake cams. When it's revved out cams desired timing goes up, actual stays at 0 for both cams.

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So what’s the fix?
 


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Thread Starter #176
Apparently according to the tech and a bit of my own troubleshooting, the only thing it could be is either Ford's can phasers were defective from the factory when mountune ordered this engine or the oil channels weren't machined properly. We kinda ruled out the oil channels though because Ive about 3 run hours on it already and haven't fucked up a cam yet. So that leaves the cam phasers. They aren't allowing the cams to retard or advance based on rpm and load. So they need to be replaced. we have troubleshot the accessport tune, unmarried the accessport then troubleshot the ecu with the factory tune, verified 12v power to the solenoids, verified oil pressure to the solenoids as well as to the rest of the engine and verified the solenoids are good.

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Apparently according to the tech and a bit of my own troubleshooting, the only thing it could be is either Ford's can phasers were defective from the factory when mountune ordered this engine or the oil channels weren't machined properly. We kinda ruled out the oil channels though because Ive about 3 run hours on it already and haven't fucked up a cam yet. So that leaves the cam phasers. They aren't allowing the cams to retard or advance based on rpm and load. So they need to be replaced. we have troubleshot the accessport tune, unmarried the accessport then troubleshot the ecu with the factory tune, verified 12v power to the solenoids, verified oil pressure to the solenoids as well as to the rest of the engine and verified the solenoids are good.

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So they couldn’t adjust the cam phasers with the computer?
 


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Btw when my Mountune short block was being built they went through 6 or 7 Ford crankshafts before they picked one and weighted it to get it straight. Too much runout allowed from the factory. So when the long block was being built I had them put in a Callies crank.
 


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Thread Starter #179
The cam phasers are not adjustable it is possible to tune them out of the cars tune but it would vastly effect my emissions.

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The cam phasers are not adjustable it is possible to tune them out of the cars tune but it would vastly effect my emissions.

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I thought via computer the cam phaser could adjust the cam position
 


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