Isabella de la fiesta

[Rocketst]

One of these bolts in unlike the other.Also creates a huge problem when the bolts is tightened so tight cuz it's so short it actually locks the cam in place.

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[Rocketst]

So today was a long day at work. Couldn't work on the car today. When I tackle that oil leak tomorrow, other than the oil drain from the turbo what other locations should I be checking. I know that the cam position sensors can leak, valve cover, head gasket, turbo seals? What else? I'm gonna pick up a nice cigar tomorrow and just blow a shit ton of smoke into the intake tomorrow as well to find that intake leak. After those get found, car should drive appropriately(hopefully).

 

[MRX430]

One of these bolts in unlike the other.Also creates a huge problem when the bolts is tightened so tight cuz it's so short it actually locks the cam in place.

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Holy mother of all effups!

 

[Rocketst]

Holy mother of all effups!

Yeah luckily Rob is a really good mechanic. He looked at the sheet from Ford and almost immediately knew something was up with the phasers. Still took me a week to decide to let him take a look or not because it was pretty expensive and if he was wrong it would have been my dime.

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[MRX430]

A flanged cylindrical socket head cap screw and a knurled non-flanged cylindrical socket head cap screw are not the same thing. My lord!

 

[MRX430]

Yeah luckily Rob is a really good mechanic. He looked at the sheet from Ford and almost immediately knew something was up with the phasers. Still took me a week to decide to let him take a look or not because it was pretty expensive and if he was wrong it would have been my dime.

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The sheet?

Engine blueprinting​

What blueprinting REALLY is.​

Contributed By: Enginebasics.com
I would argue that the most abused word in the engine building world is the word Blueprinting. This word is now tossed around with anyone who has a high-performance motor built these days. In-fact, it appears that EVERYONE seems to have a blueprinted race motor if you look at for sale ads on classic trader. Are this many people paying the $10-$20 THOUSAND DOLLARS to have a blueprinted motor built, or do people not really understand what a fully blueprinted motor really is?
I would argue that it’s the later in that question. Most people assume that if their machinist measured and bored the motor to match the pistons. And if the machinist measured and matched the rod and crankbearings then BOOM, you have a fully blueprinted motor. The reality is this is FAR FROM the case. Some people say the machinists are to blame since they “SELL” their customers on this idea that there motor is blueprinted to increase sales. Some people say the customers are to blame since everyone wants to say they have a “blueprinted” motor these days. Whoever it was….. who really cares. Everything described above is things that your SHOULD BE doing any time you assemble a motor. Lets clear things up then.
To really blueprint a motor requires an INSANE amount of time, and an INSANE amount of parts. Every part of the motor will be measured and balanced to each-other in a manner that will require going through dozens of pistons, rods, bearings….it’s incredible. In the last fully blueprinted motor build I was involved in, we had to order three sets of pistons from the manufacturer before we came up with eight that were all within a thousands of spec. We ordered four sets of rods before we came up with four that were all within spec of each-other. The manufactures are not to blame. Technically each set could have been used to build a motor that would have run for 200k miles, and could have been balanced to work just like any other motor with some machining on the crank. A true blueprinted motor though, is one were every single part has been measured and matched exactly to a tolerance that FAR EXCEDES the manufacturers original tolerances. On a blueprinted motor one could say there “are no tolerances”, since everything is matched at times to a hundred thousands of an inch. The amount of balancing a blueprinted motor needs is so low its off the scale. All bearing and races are measured to be with-in thousands of each-other.
Hopefully you see there is a lot more to a blueprinted motor than just having some things measured and machined to fit. Blueprinting is a long process requiring LOTS of parts to find them within spec of each other, and LOTS of machinist time in measuring and scoping everything. The actual motor is measured and put into tolerance instead of machining components to balance at the crank.
So does all this really mater? For a street motor I would argue no. In reality blueprinting a motor is all about getting every last inch of performance out of it, no matter what the cost. While a blueprinted motor will rev faster, have less rotational power losses, and harmonically be stronger, its not worth the money for a street application. Are there such a thing as blueprinted motors out there….. absolutely. But are the thousands of blueprinted motors you see advertised on ebay really blueprinted? Well, I’ll let you be the judge

 

[Rocketst]

Is it okay to have the lpfp coming in from the bottom and splitting to the left and right? Otherwise I can't get the hpfp line to lay down

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[Rocketst]

Unless someone tells me otherwise this will be how I have the fuel line set up. No hard bends and I think it looks okay

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[eq5]

Is it okay to have the lpfp coming in from the bottom and splitting to the left and right? Otherwise I can't get the hpfp line to lay down

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I am also using a T-junction there and no issues.

 

[Rocketst]

Alright guys so I've almost solved all the issues. On the 2j intake though, the small nipple contacts the exhaust cam solenoid and it keeps melting. Are there any good shielding options I could consider? I tried to move it out of the way but it's just going right back to where it was. Another thing, I'm pretty sure my valve cover gasket is leaking. I have air coming into the system after the intake and after exhaustively checking every single vacuum hose charge pipe and air hose I've come to believe it's this. I'm also believing it's this because I have a very high oil leak. It comes down the entire back of the motor. I've removed the valve cover and glossed over it and seen when I took it off I did have oil out side of the gasket barrier. Could this be causing air to enter the system after the intake?

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[Ford ST]

No it would not. You have a 4-port system obviously so there's multiple spots between the intake manifold and the engine where it could be sucking in air.


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[Rocketst]

No it would not. You have a 4-port system obviously so there's multiple spots between the intake manifold and the engine where it could be sucking in air.


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I have checked these though as well and resealed them after making sure the gasket was good. I've visually verified intake manifold, spacer, gaskets all vacuum lines, all intake lines. The only things I haven't really gotten into are the pcv valve or egr system. It's only because I'm not familiar with how to verify them.

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[Ford ST]

Someone recently made a post about getting a code I assume the one you're getting. They had installed an aftermarket intake and they messed with their evap lines.
What did you do to your evap lines to install this intake?

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[Rocketst]

Had to extend the maf sensor, had one large recirc line running off top of the valve cover, 1 tiny t running from behind engine to pcv port on front of intake part of that also goes to the map sensor and the other part recircs to the intake. It's 2jrs intake.

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[Ford ST]

Did you have this intake before your engine failure?
Have you thought about if you haven't done so already of installing the EVAP line set for the older models?

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[TyphoonFiST]

Start up the engine and get a spray bottle ....the engine is like a vacuum....once you hit the sweet spot/ open spot the idle will fluctuate. It's what I would try and do....or even WD40* will be suitable for this also!

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[Rocketst]

So I tried this yesterday. Unfortunately it's proving allusive. One thing I have noticed is, whenever I disengage the clutch the engine bogs down hard, this is in neutral or in gear doesn't matter. Any thoughts? This is almost always the reason it's stalling. I'm driving the car everyday now so otherwise it's fairly reliable minus the oil leak I'm assuming is at the valve cover haha. I must have tightened the screws wrong. Also, I noticed when I removed the oil cap there is positive pressure blowing outward. Am I mistaken or should this be a sucking effect?

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[TyphoonFiST]

I know its New....but could it be the clutch? where is the idle set? Is there any codes set that aren't illuminating the CEL?

 

[Rocketst]

I know its New....but could it be the clutch? where is the idle set? Is there any codes set that aren't illuminating the CEL?

So the idles set at 850 and I think the stage 2 piper cams need more vaccum. I think the idle needs to be set higher. It's very stable at 1k but at 850 it's hit or miss. The codes I'm getting are misfires on cyl 2 and 3 which could be cause by fouled spark plugs due to the exhaust cam not lifting appropriately and being coated in oil. That's the problem I had fixed by the shop. I know the valve cover is leaking by which may effect the pcv system because the hoses route inside of there. Is the rubber material under the engine cover necessary? I had to remove that when the original engine drenched itself in oil. I feel like it may have something to do with the vaccum on the master cylinder considering my clutch issue. The code I'm getting that I've been trying my damnest to find is air leak between TB and air valve. Their corrections include checking the pcv hoses, vacuum hoses, intake hoses, manifold gaskets. The only things I've yet to check are the oil cap gasket and indicator gasket. I have replacements for those and they are a simple fix so I'll give those a shot when I get home.

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[eq5]

Question about the engine, not sure if it has been asked already- did Mountune also supply you with blueprint sheet with dimensions, weights etc?