Motor oil

[M-Sport fan]

Hear any extra valve clatter on cold start? Your oil is too heavy or/and not clingy enough. Mix-in a lighter weight. Extra valve clatter at hot temperatures means you need more heavier weight oil. The ears see what the eyes cannot.

EDIT: Fuel injected vehicles have a feature for clearing an engine flood. I take advantage of that for start following an oil change or lengthy sit. Hold accelerator before beginning, and during the engine crank. That shuts off the fuel injectors but keeps cranking. That eliminates the brief moment of valve clatter following an oil change.

I do this procedure after EVERY full oil change.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Well to each their own, choose ya poison. Ive personally had spectacular results when paying attention to the HTHS and the TBN in all my turbo cars, albeit this is my first DI turbo so its my least knowledgeable configuration. Still learning

From what i understand as long as the kinematic Vi is reasonable, then swing away with a slightly above normal hths to combat pushing the car hard weekly, hybrid/BT or not. I use a s280 and i dont know if i consider it BT but it is bigger than stock lol

ya i dont mess with “extended mileage” oils, mostly “boutique” as you would put it lol.

yeaup stay away from a saps

i run e40 yearly and a high TBN helps with the aforementioned fuel dilution/moisture accumulation.

How does the raven look after an “extended” oci like say maybe 6/10k? Dont think I’ve seen too many UOA’s personally but not denying they are out there.

I am pretty skeptical of Ti compounds in my oil, I’m a fan of a nice amount of moly when it comes to the additives.

I have not yet done a oil analysis on any Ravenol, and I never go beyond a 5K mile max OCIs either, 'total waste' or not.
I consider it very cheap 'insurance' as compared to potential wear on turbo impeller/turbine shaft/bearing wear, ring land wear, and even our HPFP tappet wear from 'pushing' an OCI.

The Ravenol top tier oils (all of their 'USVO' oils) all have a big dose of trimer moly, as well as some tungsten, (which I am sure you are also 'skeptical' about) in it's anti-friction/anti-wear ad pack.

They also use a decent percentage of group 5/esters for their base stock, along with the majority group4/PAO base stock.

All VERY low volatility, very low SAPS, and higher natural (with little to no added, shear prone, V.I. improvers, yeah, even the much better, improved, 'modern' ones!) viscosity index oils.

 

[subzerospeed]

I have not yet done a oil analysis on any Ravenol, and I never go beyond a 5K mile max OCIs either, 'total waste' or not.
I consider it very cheap 'insurance' as compared to potential wear on turbo impeller/turbine shaft/bearing wear, ring land wear, and even our HPFP tappet wear from 'pushing' an OCI.

The Ravenol top tier oils (all of their 'USVO' oils) all have a big dose of trimer moly, as well as some tungsten, (which I am sure you are also 'skeptical' about) in it's anti-friction/anti-wear ad pack.

They also use a decent percentage of group 5/esters for their base stock, along with the majority group4/PAO base stock.

All VERY low volatility, very low SAPS, and higher natural (with little to no added, shear prone, V.I. improvers, yeah, even the much better, improved, 'modern' ones!) viscosity index oils.

I used to not go over 3500,4000 miles on my cars but after doing so many UOA’s and seeing the results of following my own guidelines i have found dumping before 5k is a complete waste for my personal situation. I think i like dumping and adding fresh oil more than anything else car related haha.

Currently have Amsoil Sig Series in the car, but for the longest time i used the ester/pao based redline/motul oils. Having made the switch to e40 all year, esters dont live well when running E, so i use group IV oils instead of the ester/polyglycol/silicone group V oils i once used in my RHD subies.

 

[remtodd]

I'm a fan of Amsoil. My engine seems to like it.