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Mountune Radiator Interference Issue.

OP
scooter123
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Metro Detroit
Thread Starter #21
Sounds like installer error.
Best be careful about claiming "installer error" being that you are a "Ford Master Parts Tech". My experience with warranty repairs by Ford Techs have NOT provided my with any confidence in the competence of Ford Techs.

For example when the drivers side rear view mirror failed the Tech looped the wiring harness in the path of the window when he replaced the mirror assembly. As a result the window would not go down by more than 8 inches. Had to spend another 2 hours in the waiting area while that problem was addressed.

Then there is the warranty repair for the clutch slave cylinder. I dropped the car off on June 26, 2022 with 3/4 gallons of gas and 36.9 AVG MPG showing on the tattletail. The tech noticed some anti freeze at the bottom passenger side below the radiator and immediately blamed that that on a leaking radiator. I had to drive to the dealer and note that and approve the repair to proceed without any replacement of the radiator. On July 15 I was finally able to pick up the car and was told that the Tech had the car overheat during the test drive and he had topped up the cooling system to correct for that. Also noticed that the fuel mileage tattletail was now showing 16.4 MPG and there was still nearly 3/4 tank showing on the gas gauge. So, how does a Ford Tech doing a test drive manage to shift the AVG MPG by that much. The only answer for that question is that the Tech was running the car flat out. Finally on July 16 I also had an overheat issue, my response to that was to set the heat temp to 85 and kick the fans on full which did get the car out of limp home mode and allowed me to get it home on surface streets. Where I discovered that my leak was NOT the radiator, it was the hose detailed in this thread. During this week I found that I would lose 1 qt of anti freeze in 12 miles of driving, so I was able to get to work and back home.

Needless to say I am NOT impressed with any Ford Tech. Right no I am wondering how long it will be before something goes wrong in the transmission. Because I have zero confidence that the Ford Tech actually adhered to the Ford specifications and procedures for re-installing the transmission.

I'll also note that I am not impressed at all with Ford Engineering and I've worked on the Automotive supply side since 1982. Over and Over and Over I keep seeing the same mistakes from Ford Engineers. It has gotten to the point where I am seeing RFQ's for parts that can ONLY be manufactured by 3D printing the part. A great process for prototyping but try making 1.3 million a year at a cost of 2800 dollars per printed part and Ford's Engineers look like Morons. Basically Ford Engineering now thinks that Style is much more important than Function or Manufacture. Then there is all this Torque to Yield CRAP. Steel has a property known as the Fatigue Limit. Cycle that steel part below the Fatigue Limit and it will never fail, not even in a million years. The Yield Limit for steels is well OVER the Fatigue Limit and because of this that steel part will fail in use due to Fatigue. Every single critical fastener in a Ford Engine is now a Torque to Yield Fastener. Doing so will save Ford about 3 lbs of weight on an F250 truck, on our car perhaps 1.5 lbs. It will also absolutely guarantee that at some point a rod bolt will snap and cause the engine to blow. I can also tell you that it will blow under a high power demand event, so Ford will blame the drivers for an issue that was actually designed into the vehicles.
 


TDavis

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#22
I wouldn't advise removing the flaps, they serve a purpose. In this case, helping to create a vacuum on the radiator side of the fan / radiator interface to ensure adequate air is pulled through by the fan when you're sitting and not moving, then to open when incoming air is moving through the radiator from the front and giving it somewhere go after it flows through. Sure, especially with a larger rad, it's possible you'll never have any issues, but one of those things I wouldn't want to lose.
Yeah, haven't had a problem with the 5 years its been in the car. But its nice to learn about them
 


Last edited:

TDavis

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#23
Best be careful about claiming "installer error" being that you are a "Ford Master Parts Tech". My experience with warranty repairs by Ford Techs have NOT provided my with any confidence in the competence of Ford Techs.

For example when the drivers side rear view mirror failed the Tech looped the wiring harness in the path of the window when he replaced the mirror assembly. As a result the window would not go down by more than 8 inches. Had to spend another 2 hours in the waiting area while that problem was addressed.

Then there is the warranty repair for the clutch slave cylinder. I dropped the car off on June 26, 2022 with 3/4 gallons of gas and 36.9 AVG MPG showing on the tattletail. The tech noticed some anti freeze at the bottom passenger side below the radiator and immediately blamed that that on a leaking radiator. I had to drive to the dealer and note that and approve the repair to proceed without any replacement of the radiator. On July 15 I was finally able to pick up the car and was told that the Tech had the car overheat during the test drive and he had topped up the cooling system to correct for that. Also noticed that the fuel mileage tattletail was now showing 16.4 MPG and there was still nearly 3/4 tank showing on the gas gauge. So, how does a Ford Tech doing a test drive manage to shift the AVG MPG by that much. The only answer for that question is that the Tech was running the car flat out. Finally on July 16 I also had an overheat issue, my response to that was to set the heat temp to 85 and kick the fans on full which did get the car out of limp home mode and allowed me to get it home on surface streets. Where I discovered that my leak was NOT the radiator, it was the hose detailed in this thread. During this week I found that I would lose 1 qt of anti freeze in 12 miles of driving, so I was able to get to work and back home.

Needless to say I am NOT impressed with any Ford Tech. Right no I am wondering how long it will be before something goes wrong in the transmission. Because I have zero confidence that the Ford Tech actually adhered to the Ford specifications and procedures for re-installing the transmission.

I'll also note that I am not impressed at all with Ford Engineering and I've worked on the Automotive supply side since 1982. Over and Over and Over I keep seeing the same mistakes from Ford Engineers. It has gotten to the point where I am seeing RFQ's for parts that can ONLY be manufactured by 3D printing the part. A great process for prototyping but try making 1.3 million a year at a cost of 2800 dollars per printed part and Ford's Engineers look like Morons. Basically Ford Engineering now thinks that Style is much more important than Function or Manufacture. Then there is all this Torque to Yield CRAP. Steel has a property known as the Fatigue Limit. Cycle that steel part below the Fatigue Limit and it will never fail, not even in a million years. The Yield Limit for steels is well OVER the Fatigue Limit and because of this that steel part will fail in use due to Fatigue. Every single critical fastener in a Ford Engine is now a Torque to Yield Fastener. Doing so will save Ford about 3 lbs of weight on an F250 truck, on our car perhaps 1.5 lbs. It will also absolutely guarantee that at some point a rod bolt will snap and cause the engine to blow. I can also tell you that it will blow under a high power demand event, so Ford will blame the drivers for an issue that was actually designed into the vehicles.
I'm a parts manager. I'm not a mechanic.

If you're not impressed. Get a different brand. This type of convo is a can of worms. Every brand has its issues.

Also, I've worked in the dealership service scene for 7+ years at this point. Not a long time but definitely not a short amount of time. There are situations that sound exactly like yours that happen that are spoken from the customers POV. When, 9 times out of 10, there was a miscommunication somewhere or words got twisted along the line to where its not the exact truth that the customers trying to express. People are always up and chomping at the bit to blame a dealership for something when most of the time, seeing it from behind the scenes, the customer is misunderstanding something and just outright refuses to listen to the dealer. Sadly, advisors now a days are way too busy and flooded during the day to actually go and follow(advise) each step that the tech is taking to diagnose the car. So words get construed and they mis-interpret what the other is saying and vise-versa strictly because they get busy as hell and its hard to keep up with each of their customers diagnosis'. Even at reputable dealerships it is hell 24/7 when its busy. Everyone is running around like a chicken with their head cut off. This, in return, the advisor ends up giving the costumer bad info. Then the customer takes it as them trying to screw them over.

Don't get me wrong. There are some crooks in the dealership area. But MOST, like 90% are not out to get you and the "problems" that customers have are mostly misunderstandings. Not actual people trying to screw you over. From reading your experience you're just looking for someone to blame/something to go wrong. You're the type of customer that just cant be reasoned with and cant be pushed out of their own head. Period.
 


Last edited:
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Location
Simi Valley, CA, USA
#24
With my Mountune rad, I’ve noticed that one of the flaps on the fan shroud hits one of the AC lines. I can take a pic tomorrow. It definitely prevents the flap from opening all (even most) of the way. I don’t recall any interference with any cooling lines though.
I went in and actually looked closer at my interference, and looks like mine is also hitting a coolant line, not AC like I had thought. Given that its only a small section of the corner, I'm thinking I should be able to just clip the corner of the flap off and get clearance and not really negatively impact the effect of the flaps overall
 


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Dialcaliper

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#25
Sounds like installer error. Never heard of a problem fitting the Mountune, or any after effects. If anything its the Mishi with the issues since its thicker and such a tight fit. As for the cooling fan flaps. I just removed all of those when I had the cooling fan out.
I would second advice to not modify the flaps. They aren’t just there to allow more airflow when the car is moving at higher speeds. They need to seal off so the fan pulls air through the radiator core at low speeds. If the flaps are removed, the fan mostly will just suck hot air in from the engine bay, as there is less resistance than pulling air through the radiator core, and your fan will simply be recirculating the hot air - your cooling performance will suffer at low speeds/ in traffic.

The core needs pressure differential to pull air through it and flaps that are suck open or absent are basically poking a hole in the low pressure area that the fan is trying to create.

Clipping a little corner off for clearance probably won’t hurt anything since it’s a small area, but removing a flap completely would be detrimental
 


TDavis

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#26
I would second advice to not modify the flaps. They aren’t just there to allow more airflow when the car is moving at higher speeds. They need to seal off so the fan pulls air through the radiator core at low speeds. If the flaps are removed, the fan mostly will just suck hot air in from the engine bay, as there is less resistance than pulling air through the radiator core, and your fan will simply be recirculating the hot air - your cooling performance will suffer at low speeds/ in traffic.

The core needs pressure differential to pull air through it and flaps that are suck open or absent are basically poking a hole in the low pressure area that the fan is trying to create.

Clipping a little corner off for clearance probably won’t hurt anything since it’s a small area, but removing a flap completely would be detrimental
Like I said, I appreciate the info as I understand what they do now. But too late now lol and its been fine with the 5 years that I've had the rad in my car. Even in stop and go traffic with 95+ weather it never hits above 193
 


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