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Symposer delete, drop in filter, fmic, AP with Stratified tune.
- Thread starter Dubcc
- Start date
This exactly. The Cobb tunes, even if running stage 2 without an IC, which is safe, doesn't make as much power as Dizzy stage 1 and is also the same twitchy type of feel as Stratified (Alex taught Cobb how to tune) so Jason's flavor is so much smoother too.. AND, you don't need an IC for e30, which has no stages as it runs so much cooler, so technically an IC is not even needed to max out a stock turbo, you just *want* one so you can make the most power in summer heat over multiple pulls too... So that's me, I just NOW ordered an IC after owning my car for 17 months and I've been enjoying the hell out of it with e30 the most. Sadly, it seems like a radiator is even more important than an intercooler these days.... so anyway, yeah a lot of people are just like that, can get a great smooth tune and when on special get the e30 for free and no IC needed. Out of all my money spent, the $75 for the Dizzy tune with e30 is by the best return for the dollar.
Man I want to go E30 so bad but the closest fuel station to me with E85 is 30 miles away. I'm tempted to get a big drum and stock E85 in my garage and do the tune anyway. I'm currently on Dizzy Stage 2- How big of a jump would it be to go E30? And is doing the whole "gas empty light- fill 3 gallons of E" accurate enough to get that 30% mixture?
You just do the math based on 3 gallons per full tank.. so the first tank, you can be at any fuel level, as long as you have room for 3 gallons, you add 3 gallons of e85 and top off with premium. if you re-fuel at 1/4 tank you use 2.25 of e85, at about 1/3 then use 2 gallons of e85, etc. Also, it 100% does not have to exact at all, use a little more e85 if you want, there is actual *tons* of automatic fuel trim adjustment in the ECU. You just want to be between e28-e40 for a final percentage... I don't know how long it stores for though, you'd probably want to use any amount in a storage can within a month, especially in your high humidity area. To me it's really worth it since I'm still waiting on my IC, but it's basically the same difference between stock and pump tuned, it's another full step above that so it's WAY worth overall for sure! 
I'm not sure if you know this, but oil temps are not much of a concern, especially if you use full synthetic oil. Unless you are seeing over 250 degrees, then there is no chance your oil is not providing 100% protection, and even then really only over 270 is much of a concern at all. Also, simply using an over sized filter helps keep temps more in check, it acts like a heat sink with more surface area.
Yeah, not bad temps at all, especially with good oil like that. One step larger would be FL-400s (What most people run), then Wix 1516/Napa gold 41516, then Fram TG3600. The last being so long it wouldn't fit with a radiator upgrade. I'm running the Napa right now, helps a pretty good amount! Keep in mind that it's the Fram orange that sucks, the silver Tough Guard are actually good. You don't want to go too expensive on oil filters, they actually don't filter as good to return really long OCI when we should change every 5-6k anyway. That's also why I just use surprising excellent for the money Quaker State Ultimate Durability that's only $20 at Wally World.
Yeah, like I was saying it runs cooler, so charge temps aren't any worse than pump fuel at all, despite having significantly more power. I'll be finally getting my intercooler this week, just because I had a deal lined up with a vendor and didn't want to let that lapse...But I've been drag racing and everything with the stock IC and ethanol tunes and charge temps weren't too outrageous with just a few minute cool down time between runs, it was coolant temps that had me having the heat cranked up with the windows down between runs.
Absolutely, very high 13's anyway, even without an intercooler upgrade, remember, that is more for charge temp consistency. You just need a good launch, use FFS'ing. I've tried various launch control settings and shift points, but still have a ways to go, I was able to hit 14.2 but other guys on street tires have gotten 13.8
Bolt on's of any kind on top of E30 will really add minimal performance. An E30 tune really is the great equalizer, intake upgrades can eek out a bit more performance over stock, while exhaust adds absolutely nothing. With an intercooler, you may want to upgrade the charge pipes to ensure it's running 100% efficiently, a new DV such GFB or TurboSmart can help make sure you hold boost properly and of course Symposer delete as has been discussed add the need to add some sound as you will have pretty much zero feedback at that point. But honestly, for more power past that point, I'd look into an E40 tune that needs an upgraded WGA spring from 5 to 7 psi but you will need custom tuning for every fuel type you want to use as well. That's why it's commonly said to just start looking at turbo upgrades once you have the basics down, the stock turbo with it's tiny size is the major limiting factor.
Well, I think that also proves our cars are not *that* slow in the 1/4 once you have an ethanol tune and traction issues sorted, so that's a good thing.. I know we had chatted a while back that if we can get traction dialed in, then we can make all this crazy torque usable, but it's easier to upgrade the turbo and push the torque curve up a bit and enjoy high end power too, but at least there are options to at least maximize the tons of torque by getting it to the ground with the stock turbo. So @The.Golf.Father Definitely look at not only an RMM, but upper mount inserts and bracing such as traction bars or even better, 4 pt mounts that really help keep the wheels planted and straight to avoid wheel spin and torque steer. Many times that involves compromising on NVH for sure, but you can usually find a happy medium dialed in for daily use or go with more vibes if all out wheel hop and torque steer minimizing is the main goal for 1/4 mile, etc.
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