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Warm it up....don't warm it up?

jmrtsus

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#1
Had a good laugh this morning when looking at the weather report. It seem the weather folks are also I.C. engine experts.

https://www.foxweather.com/learn/how-to-maximize-your-cars-fuel-economy-when-temperatures-drop

"Fluids in your engine move slower when it's cold outside, thus lowering your vehicle's fuel economy. It also takes longer for your engine to reach its optimal fuel-efficient temperature, which affects your vehicle more if you're taking a shorter trip.

Warming up your vehicle before driving wastes gas, too. If you're idling, your car is getting 0 miles to the gallon."

The choice is and always has been drive a cold engine and lose mpg or warm it up and lose mpg. We'll take the warm up engine first and eat the 25 cents in gas to do it.

Funny, I remember this debate 55 years ago. A local service station in the late '60's when they were actually service places had the slogan "Take it slow, don't start and go!" to encourage warming up cars. The car manuals, ours included, only reference to engine temp is to state what is "normal". I prefer not to drive an "abnormal" temp engine, over or under temp, LOL! Ford nor others suggest warming a car up as this would have to be done in the fed mileage tests and all companies want the absolute highest mileage. So the manuals say zip about warming up an engine, just what "normal" temps are and leaves it up to us to decide what to do. Reminds me of this movie scene.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p-1zr_wgC1E
 


dhminer

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#2
I just let it idle down and go. Keep it under 4k and totally out of boost until oil hits 150. My understanding is warming up was more necessary for older carbureted cars and those using conventional oil. I don’t care about gas mileage so I’d happily warm it for 10-20 min before driving if I saw any evidence that it was worthwhile. I remote start my escape for 15-30 min in the winter but that’s because it sits outside and the leather is cold as hell. Man I hate leather
 


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jmrtsus

jmrtsus

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Thread Starter #3
I just let it idle down and go. Keep it under 4k and totally out of boost until oil hits 150. My understanding is warming up was more necessary for older carbureted cars and those using conventional oil. I don’t care about gas mileage so I’d happily warm it for 10-20 min before driving if I saw any evidence that it was worthwhile. I remote start my escape for 15-30 min in the winter but that’s because it sits outside and the leather is cold as hell. Man I hate leather
Carbs actually idled down as quick as some FI engines, by the 60's almost all had "automatic" chokes and idle controlled by temp. By 1954 multi grade oils were available and also reduced warm up times. Our experiences lead to decisions on this, oil and other fluids. I don't think there is a right or wrong on things like this.
 


LilPartyBox

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#4
I'm firmly in the camp that has always let it idle down then drive keeping the RPMs low until it reaches normal operating temps. Sitting around idling on cold oil only leaves the engine unprotected for longer. imo, it's better to get the oil up to operating temps sooner by driving gently for the first few minutes.
 


Capri to ST

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#7
I agree with the others that you should warm up the engine by driving it gently, not by letting it sit and idle .
The only thing I wonder about is whether you should drive it off the the second after you start it, or whether you should start it and let it sit and idle for a very short period of time, maybe 20 seconds or so before you drive it off.
 


Capri to ST

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#9
Start it before you put your seat belt on. The seconds you spend buckling up and fiddling around with other things in the car is enough, and long enough to scan the gauges before you start driving.
That's exactly what I do.I feel like it's beneficial to let it idle for that very short period of time to at least let the oil circulate within the engine.

Once you drive off after a cold start, as all of you know the temperature gauge in our cars goes to four bars very quickly,in less than a minute on a warm summer day and in maybe two or three minutes on a cold winter day.This is obviously way before the oil has warmed up, so I wait until I've driven the car for about 10 minutes after a cold start before I get on it.
 


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#10
It's bad for modern engines to sit idling while cold. Drive gently to warm it up quicker. This isn't a debatable topic, it's a fact.
Well dang. I've been doing it this winter (no garage currently) to help clear frost/snow. Any other time, I just baby until up to temp... sounds like I need to suck it up and scrape huh? Never thought I'd miss my garage so much.
 


Jabbit

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Well dang. I've been doing it this winter (no garage currently) to help clear frost/snow. Any other time, I just baby until up to temp... sounds like I need to suck it up and scrape huh? Never thought I'd miss my garage so much.
It's probably fine long term but all things being equal - it's better to start and drive away soon after then let the car idle for 5-15+ mins. How much better/worse is one way vs the other? Hard to measure specifics.
 


FiestaSTdude

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#12
I let it idle until the car's temperature gauge hits two bars (2 minutes max) them I drive trying to stay under 3.5k rpm until the Accessport coolant is around 180. By that time, the engine oil is close to that as well and I feel like the transmission has warmed up too. I'm in NC, so I'm not dealing with crazy cold temperature like some of y'all.
 


haste

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I wait until my accessport boots and shows the gauges that I normally monitor. No longer. It gives me time to latch my seatbelt, turn the seat heater on and check my mirror/seat adjustments. I try to keep it under 3k rpms and drive with a light foot until the coolant temp is about 170F. It's about 5.5 miles of driving on my commute until I feel comfortable romping on it. That includes 1/2 mile of 25mph neighborhood streets. The rest is 55mph rural highway with two stop lights.
 


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#15
I wait until my accessport boots and shows the gauges that I normally monitor. No longer. It gives me time to latch my seatbelt, turn the seat heater on and check my mirror/seat adjustments. I try to keep it under 3k rpms and drive with a light foot until the coolant temp is about 170F. It's about 5.5 miles of driving on my commute until I feel comfortable romping on it. That includes 1/2 mile of 25mph neighborhood streets. The rest is 55mph rural highway with two stop lights.
Out of curiosity, do you keep yours plugged in all the time? I basically pull mine out for track days/fun runs (or to swap tunes)... figure it's a theft/broken window risk. Also, is sturdy enough to withstand extreme (sub 0 and 100+) temps?
 


FiestaSTdude

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#16
Out of curiosity, do you keep yours plugged in all the time? I basically pull mine out for track days/fun runs (or to swap tunes)... figure it's a theft/broken window risk. Also, is sturdy enough to withstand extreme (sub 0 and 100+) temps?
Most of the time, I drive with mine plugged it. I like to have the extra gauges. I just put it in my glove box when I'm parked (I live in a very safe area, so it being stolen isn't a big concern). Idk how it does with extreme temps, I'm curious about that too.
 


M-Sport fan

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#17
That's exactly what I do.I feel like it's beneficial to let it idle for that very short period of time to at least let the oil circulate within the engine.

Once you drive off after a cold start, as all of you know the temperature gauge in our cars goes to four bars very quickly,in less than a minute on a warm summer day and in maybe two or three minutes on a cold winter day.This is obviously way before the oil has warmed up, so I wait until I've driven the car for about 10 minutes after a cold start before I get on it.
WHY I use an Ultra Gauge to monitor the exact coolant temps (as well as to stay OUT of boost, and IN vacuum) while I drive it to warm it up.

Even though there is not a direct correlation between coolant and oil temps (nor is the AP's 'guesstimate algorithm' very accurate either [wink]), I figure that the oil is 'warm enough' once the coolant temp reads at least 175*-180* F.
 


Capri to ST

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#18
WHY I use an Ultra Gauge to monitor the exact coolant temps (as well as to stay OUT of boost, and IN vacuum) while I drive it to warm it up.

Even though there is not a direct correlation between coolant and oil temps (nor is the AP's 'guesstimate algorithm' very accurate either [wink]), I figure that the oil is 'warm enough' once the coolant temp reads at least 175*-180* F.
I don't have a gauge like that, and I also don't keep my Mountune Accessport in my car, so that's why I just wait a decent interval before driving it it all hard.
 


haste

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Out of curiosity, do you keep yours plugged in all the time? I basically pull mine out for track days/fun runs (or to swap tunes)... figure it's a theft/broken window risk. Also, is sturdy enough to withstand extreme (sub 0 and 100+) temps?
Yeah, it's plugged in all the time and left out in the open. I've had it over six years now without any problems and it's been plugged in since I got it. I live in Eastern NC, so it sees hotter temps than cold. I do use a sunshade year round and have 35% tint on my windows so it never really gets direct sunlight. The screen seems slightly sluggish when it's cold but that is about it.

I don't really go anywhere that I feel the need to hide it. I guess that's why I just leave it plugged in all the time.
 


XR650R

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I don't have a gauge like that, and I also don't keep my Mountune Accessport in my car, so that's why I just wait a decent interval before driving it it all hard.
That's really all it is. If you have an AP, you can monitor coolant and oil temps, and it does take a while to really get warm.

I really like the low boost mode for that. I keep it in low mode as long as possible until it's warm. It's also my favorite mode in icy/low traction situations.
If I'm getting on the freeway, it's going in full boost mode, but at least it's warmed up a bit.
 




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