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Dead Horse: Oil Change Question

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#1
Sorry guy's, I know this has been discussed in numerous threads but I'm at just over 900 miles and would like to change my oil. Being it's the first oil change, should I bother with getting this http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-...=1392831762&sr=8-2&keywords=royal+purple+5w20
or should I just stick with Motorcraft Synthetic blend? Also, what is the part number for the filter. TIA
 


OP
L
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Thread Starter #3
Thank's rooSTer, what's the reasoning behind it? Is it because the motor is still breaking in? Would it not be btter to have a "premium" oil when it's breaking in?
 


westcoaST

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#4
I'm at 700 miles. This weekend I'm changing my oil and filter. Check out Walmart. They have great prices on Motorcraft 5W-20 synthetic blend - 5 qts for 17.97 + and their Motorcraft oil filter(MTCFL910S) is $3.97. Total is 21.94 + tax.

Anyone using a Fumoto oil drain valve. What is the correct Part No. for our FiST? I got a question into fumotousa.com, but no answer yet.
 


OP
L
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Thread Starter #5
Thanks for the part number on the filter westcoaST! I may just go with the Motorcraft for the first one and then switch to the Royal purple on the second.
 


rooSTer

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#6
Thank's rooSTer, what's the reasoning behind it? Is it because the motor is still breaking in? Would it not be btter to have a "premium" oil when it's breaking in?
I would think sticking with the manufacture oil recommedation would be better for the break-in.


This is found in the Focus ST manual..I think it would apply to the FiST as well.
BREAKING-IN YOUR VEHICLE
Your vehicle does not need an extensive break-in. Try not to drive
continuously at the same speed for the first 1000 miles
(1600 kilometers) of new vehicle operation. Vary your speed frequently
in order to give the moving parts a chance to break in.
Do not add friction modifier compounds or special break-in oils since
these additives may prevent piston ring seating
 


pelotonracer2

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NRH
#8
Sorry guy's, I know this has been discussed in numerous threads but I'm at just over 900 miles and would like to change my oil. Being it's the first oil change, should I bother with getting this http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-...=1392831762&sr=8-2&keywords=royal+purple+5w20
or should I just stick with Motorcraft Synthetic blend? Also, what is the part number for the filter. TIA
You can use any 5w-20 synthetic blend oil. I used Kendall in mine. I don't like Royal Purple at all, but unfortunately I have a gag order and can't tell you why. LMAO. I'd wait to use full synthetic until after 5,000 miles. Anything that reduces friction during break-in is NOT beneficial.
 


OP
L
Messages
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Thread Starter #10
You can use any 5w-20 synthetic blend oil. I used Kendall in mine. I don't like Royal Purple at all, but unfortunately I have a gag order and can't tell you why. LMAO. I'd wait to use full synthetic until after 5,000 miles. Anything that reduces friction during break-in is NOT beneficial.
Interesting, Royal Purple is always fondly spoken of on the forums. The friction part makes sense now. Thanks for pointing that out.
 


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#11
I'm at 700 miles. This weekend I'm changing my oil and filter. Check out Walmart. They have great prices on Motorcraft 5W-20 synthetic blend - 5 qts for 17.97 + and their Motorcraft oil filter(MTCFL910S) is $3.97. Total is 21.94 + tax.

Anyone using a Fumoto oil drain valve. What is the correct Part No. for our FiST? I got a question into fumotousa.com, but no answer yet.
F106 for the valve.
 


Harvick

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#12
I'm at 700 miles. This weekend I'm changing my oil and filter. Check out Walmart. They have great prices on Motorcraft 5W-20 synthetic blend - 5 qts for 17.97 + and their Motorcraft oil filter(MTCFL910S) is $3.97. Total is 21.94 + tax.

Anyone using a Fumoto oil drain valve. What is the correct Part No. for our FiST? I got a question into fumotousa.com, but no answer yet.
Fumoto F-106 Engine Oil Drain Valve
www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/754-Fumoto-oil-drain-valve
 


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Location
WARWICK
#15
You can use any 5w-20 synthetic blend oil. I used Kendall in mine. I don't like Royal Purple at all, but unfortunately I have a gag order and can't tell you why. LMAO. I'd wait to use full synthetic until after 5,000 miles. Anything that reduces friction during break-in is NOT beneficial.
Peloton, have you ever used or heard of Bitron EP20 engine treatment?
 


westcoaST

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#16
Thanks, I went on the quikvalve site earlier and found the correct ones. I ordered the 106N from Amazon. I've had the Fumoto valve on several of my Ford vehicles and had zero problems with any of them. I ordered the F106N because Ford loves to put the oil drain hole on the side of their oil pans, and I can put a hose on the nipple, and direct the flow downward, instead of into my hand and then down into the drain pan. Looking at the responses from the linked thread about the fumoto valves was "interesting". I'm an engineer, and I see nothing wrong with the valve design. The lever will not accidently move.
 


Harvick

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#17
Thanks, I went on the quikvalve site earlier and found the correct ones. I ordered the 106N from Amazon. I've had the Fumoto valve on several of my Ford vehicles and had zero problems with any of them. I ordered the F106N because Ford loves to put the oil drain hole on the side of their oil pans, and I can put a hose on the nipple, and direct the flow downward, instead of into my hand and then down into the drain pan. Looking at the responses from the linked thread about the fumoto valves was "interesting". I'm an engineer, and I see nothing wrong with the valve design. The lever will not accidently move.
Let us know how everything goes.
 


Perry

Active member
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Leawood
#19
Anything that reduces friction during break-in is NOT beneficial.
Hello. My name is Inigo Montoya; prepare to die. I don't think that [sentence] means what you think it means. [Or quite what you meant to say, pel!] [wink]

Certainly some friction reduction is a good thing, else we'd all just drain the oil from our engines and run 'em dry . . . oops, maybe not!

For those who don't know, pelotonracer2 posted a nice bit on engine/drive train break-in a while back, and why some choices are better than others. If you've got questions, there's a better-'n'-fair chance they're answered in there.
 


westcoaST

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#20
One last question, does the drain plug need to be replaced?
Yes, one pulls the drainplug. Don't forget to remove the black washer. Then you need the extension, AC-106. I used the F106N Fumoto valve. The valve is pointing towards the back of the vehicle. There is a bigger chance of hitting the turbo pipe that goes to the intercooler than this valve. I drove my car onto my Rhino ramps, which tilts the backside of the engine, and allows even more oil to drain out. I tightened my hose clamps before draining my oil. I was able to get to all of the clamps with no problem. My big problem was the oil filter. I ended up having to purchase a special oil filter wrench that grabs onto the end of the filter with three prongs, and you use a 3/8" ratcheting breaker bar. A gorilla must have put the original oil filter on.

This is what the oil filter wrench looks like.
 




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