Wrench/oil change light how does it work?

[Dialcaliper]

The assumption of the oil minder would almost certainly be designed with the factory oil fill in mind (and assuming you do oil changes at the dealer with factory oil), so any other oil you choose that’s different especially synthetic will not follow the same rules.

The only way to really know the change interval of your oil (how many miles, track days or using multiple cycles of the oil minder) is to send it in for analysis a couple times the analysis comes up as requiring an oil change.

I’m running Amsoil signature series, and I was actually fairly surprised after sending my oil in at 8000 miles, and the analysis came back “plenty of life left, check at next interval” with plenty of additive and low metals contamination. The oil does claim 25,000 miles, so I’m curious at what will actually result.

Haven’t done any track days yet, but I have a short commute and go for weekend drives, so plenty of exercise. I’ll send the analysis in at 16,000 and see what comes up. Also thinking if I do a trackday to get one done before/after to see if I can estimate “equivalent miles” to knock off the interval. Unless you’re running high power, dedicated track car with short life “race” motor oil, it’s questionable whether you actually need to change oil for a recreational track day, and I intend to find out by actual analysis (at $20-50 it’s way cheaper than an extra unnecessary oil change)

 

[foodtruck]

Neither have I, but it has been a full YEAR (but only 4500 miles) since my last change, the longest time frame I have ever gone since first owning any car, or changing the oil myself.

I MUST find a secluded, desolate place (with NO cops circulating/patrolling through the area!) to do this, SOON, for my own (OCD ridden) sanity's sake!

Vivid mental imagery of 20 swat cars surrounding @M-Sport fan telling him to drop the oil filter

 

[the duke]

there might be a way to turn the module off via FORSCAN, but I was never able to find the module. If you’re adventurous you can play with the hexadecimal and try not to brick your ECU. F150s can actually turn it off entirely.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Vivid mental imagery of 20 swat cars surrounding @M-Sport fan telling him to drop the oil filter

(But maybe not, given how little other 'crime' there is around here!)

 

[M-Sport fan]

The assumption of the oil minder would almost certainly be designed with the factory oil fill in mind (and assuming you do oil changes at the dealer with factory oil), so any other oil you choose that’s different especially synthetic will not follow the same rules.

The only way to really know the change interval of your oil (how many miles, track days or using multiple cycles of the oil minder) is to send it in for analysis a couple times the analysis comes up as requiring an oil change.

I’m running Amsoil signature series, and I was actually fairly surprised after sending my oil in at 8000 miles, and the analysis came back “plenty of life left, check at next interval” with plenty of additive and low metals contamination. The oil does claim 25,000 miles, so I’m curious at what will actually result.

Haven’t done any track days yet, but I have a short commute and go for weekend drives, so plenty of exercise. I’ll send the analysis in at 16,000 and see what comes up. Also thinking if I do a trackday to get one done before/after to see if I can estimate “equivalent miles” to knock off the interval. Unless you’re running high power, dedicated track car with short life “race” motor oil, it’s questionable whether you actually need to change oil for a recreational track day, and I intend to find out by actual analysis (at $20-50 it’s way cheaper than an extra unnecessary oil change)

Amsoil's Signature Series is one of the most 'stout' oils on the market as far as; starting TBN (and the good additives to achieve this), dimer type molybdenum and all of the other anti-wear/anti-friction additives, goes.

So those results are not a surprise at all.

(Did you use their 5W-20 or 5W-30?)

 

[Sam4]

I haven't been in there for a while, but isn't the oil light 'programmable', in that you can manually set the mileage interval? or my wife's Tucson....?

 

[Dialcaliper]

Amsoil's Signature Series is one of the most 'stout' oils on the market as far as; starting TBN (and the good additives to achieve this), dimer type molybdenum and all of the other anti-wear/anti-friction additives, goes.

So those results are not a surprise at all.

(Did you use their 5W-20 or 5W-30?)

Running 5W-30 - it does seem to have a good additive pack - we’ll see at the next interval if it can actually go the full 25k miles on a turbo engine or if I change it at ~16k

FYI, I’m also using the Amsoil EAO34 filter (equivalent size to the larger FL400S), which also “claims” to be good for 15-25k miles. If this all works out, at some point I plan to install my filter relocation so I can run the even longer 5.4” or 6.7” versions (FL-1A or FL405 equivalent) - more filter media means lower pressure drop, so the bypass valve opens less often. It also adds another 0.5-0.75 quart of oil to the system, which isn’t a bad thing.

As long as the oil analysis shows acceptable conditions, I see no reason at all to change the oil “early” just for the feels instead of going by the hard data. The whole “blind mileage/months” thing never really sat well with me unless you’re sticking with factory lubricants.

 

[Stkid93]

I have always heard that Amsoil can last for 20-25k. But I always thought that was for non turbo cars?

honestly even if a lab told me I could go 25k without an oil change. I don’t think I would ever do that. I don’t think I would go above 12k unless a company sponsored it, and we did before and after measurements of the compression and such. And the company was willing to buy me a new motor if there was any signs of damage after the extended oil change. And they put all that in writing. It’s not that I doubt the labs. They know what they are doing, but I know myself and my anxiety level and once I got over 7500 miles, all I would think for the remaining 17,500 miles is “how much damage am I doing to my engine?” I wouldn’t be able to actually enjoy driving the car. I already obsessed about stuff.

1) turbo cars are super hard on oil, the turbo can literally get red hot. I mean to the point the entire turbo is burning red. And then when you shut off the car the oil sits in that hot turbo and bakes. (Turbo timers help with this but they seem to be a much more common mod in Japan not In the us. I bought a neon srt4 with a turbo timer and that was the only car I’ve ever seen in the us with one(not counting cars imported from japan

2) the reality is that cars these days run super rich during cold starts to help warm the cat up faster. And on top of that a lot of factory tunes run the car stupid rich at wot. Even some Cobb tunes run the car dumb rich I’ve seen afrs in the 10s on some tunes. So fuel dilution is a big thing, there’s things they can put into the oil to help with that. And if you do at least 1 long trip a week (30 minutes or more) you will get the oil hot enough to burn out some of that fuel and water dilution. It’s when you do a lot of shorter trips you need to worry.

3) oil can only hold its viscosity and properties for so long, eventually the oil will be much thinner, and have much less protection especially on cold starts before the oil is up to temp.

.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Running 5W-30 - it does seem to have a good additive pack - we’ll see at the next interval if it can actually go the full 25k miles on a turbo engine or if I change it at ~16k

FYI, I’m also using the Amsoil EAO34 filter (equivalent size to the larger FL400S), which also “claims” to be good for 15-25k miles. If this all works out, at some point I plan to install my filter relocation so I can run the even longer 5.4” or 6.7” versions (FL-1A or FL405 equivalent) - more filter media means lower pressure drop, so the bypass valve opens less often. It also adds another 0.5-0.75 quart of oil to the system, which isn’t a bad thing.

As long as the oil analysis shows acceptable conditions, I see no reason at all to change the oil “early” just for the feels instead of going by the hard data. The whole “blind mileage/months” thing never really sat well with me unless you’re sticking with factory lubricants.

In the early stages of owning this car, I used that EaO34 oil filter exclusively, and very wastefully changed it out (along with a super premium FULL PAO/POE synthetic, either their Sig Series, or one of the other 'boutique' oils), every 3500-4000 miles or so.

I did trust BITOG when the consensus on there became that the FRAM ULTRA oil filters were as good as that Champion manufactured one (and the Motorcraft, and the Wix Gold and Platinums, etc.), possibly even better as far as micron filtration and longevity goes, so I switched to those at a much, much lower price, and right on the shelf at Wally's Mart (now at about one third the co$t of the Amsoil filters, even as one of their preferred customers!).

 

[M-Sport fan]

3) oil can only hold its viscosity and properties for so long, eventually the oil will be much thinner, and have much less protection especially on cold starts before the oil is up to temp.

This is true, for even THE most premium, full synthetics out there, using THE best base stocks in the most perfect percentage combinations will eventually shear down due to ; heat, mechanical shear, any type of dilution, etc.

Just as even the most 'stout' oil, with even THE best/strongest anti-acidity, TBN boosting additives (the 'wrong type' of which can raise the sulfated ash levels in the oil, resulting in exacerbated LSPI events), will eventually turn acidic (a TBN below ~3.0).

But of course, these types of premium oils do all of the above at a much, much slower rate than bargain (but still not exactly 'cheap' nowadays) totally non-synthetic Group 2 oils, and the better more intensely hydrocracked, Synthetic Blends, and Group 3 oils, which can be marketed as 'full synthetics' here in the states, but not necessarily elsewhere in the world.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

This is true, for even THE most premium, full synthetics out there, using THE best base stocks in the most perfect percentage combinations will eventually shear down due to ; heat, mechanical shear, any type of dilution, etc.

Just as even the most 'stout' oil, with even THE best/strongest anti-acidity, TBN boosting additives (the 'wrong type' of which can raise the sulfated ash levels in the oil, resulting in exacerbated LSPI events), will eventually turn acidic (a TBN below ~3.0).

But of course, these types of premium oils do all of the above at a much, much slower rate than bargain (but still not exactly 'cheap' nowadays) totally non-synthetic Group 2 oils, and the better more intensely hydrocracked, Synthetic Blends, and Group 3 oils, which can be marketed as 'full synthetics' here in the states, but not necessarily elsewhere in the world.

So what is your choice in Oil?

 

[TDavis]

They must've changed something in 2017+ where the wrench light is not used anymore for oil changes. My light has never came on and unless its on, there is no "reset" procedure. In other words if the light isn't on, you can't reset it. So if you all have people say they reset it when it isn't on they're lying to you. The reset procedure prior was to fully depress the brake and gas and a loading bar will pop up on the center screen.

 

[Stkid93]

@TyphoonFiST

any good synthetic will work pennzoil ultra/amsoil they are both good, it’s more about not over doing the intervals in my opinion

 

[M-Sport fan]

@TyphoonFiST

any good synthetic will work pennzoil ultra/amsoil they are both good, it’s more about not over doing the intervals in my opinion

THIS! ^^^

But right now I am using either the Ravenol DXG 5W-30, but it is almost $80.00 before shipping for 5 liters from Blauparts (in Wisconsin, the only distributor in the U.S. currently), so I am going to try the LiquiMoly Molygen in 5W-20 this next winter change, (whenever I can get it done), and then the same in the 5W-30 for the summer change.

 

[kivnul]

I am a bit late to the party. Ive a 2016 and the wrench light turns on like clockwork exactly 10,000 miles since I last reset it. My car at least has no fancy algorithim.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

THIS! ^^^

But right now I am using either the Ravenol DXG 5W-30, but it is almost $80.00 before shipping for 5 liters from Blauparts (in Wisconsin, the only distributor in the U.S. currently), so I am going to try the LiquiMoly Molygen in 5W-20 this next winter change, (whenever I can get it done), and then the same in the 5W-30 for the summer change.

Been meaning to Try Ravenol DXG* I'm on pennzoil platinum ultra now. I think it burns more oil with this than my last two oil changes. 🙄 I never really burned oil before this oil change either.

 

[Dialcaliper]

THIS! ^^^

But right now I am using either the Ravenol DXG 5W-30, but it is almost $80.00 before shipping for 5 liters from Blauparts (in Wisconsin, the only distributor in the U.S. currently), so I am going to try the LiquiMoly Molygen in 5W-20 this next winter change, (whenever I can get it done), and then the same in the 5W-30 for the summer change.

Barring LSPI concerns, Pretty much any oil changed at an appropriate interval determined by testing willl be fine for your engine.

FYI, if you order directly from Amsoil and sign up for their 6 or 12 month membership ($10 or $20 respectively), you get 25% off, which puts signature series at ~$12 qt. Since unopened oil keeps 4-5 years, I just ordered a case of 12 for $140

 

[Stkid93]

Have any of you tried Mobil 1 annual protection. They claim it’s good for 20,000 miles. If anyone has had an oil analysis done for Mobil 1, please share. Especially if it was their annual protection oil.

And someone made a video of their testing lab and how they tested the oil in several vehicles. I believe they were all turbocharged as well. They put them on a Dyno, and drove them at varying speed and load for 20,000 mile intervals. And then changed the oil and did it again. I believe they did this for a total of 150-200k miles and then tore the motor apart to see if it meant their specifications for wear. At least this is what they claimed when being recording in a video that would he shown to millions of people. In any case I’ve always hated mobil 1. Their oil and their gas are both shit in my opinion. I believe they are extremely over priced because of their name and don’t have anywhere near the quality of pennzoil ultra or Amsoil.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Barring LSPI concerns, Pretty much any oil changed at an appropriate interval determined by testing willl be fine for your engine.

FYI, if you order directly from Amsoil and sign up for their 6 or 12 month membership ($10 or $20 respectively), you get 25% off, which puts signature series at ~$12 qt. Since unopened oil keeps 4-5 years, I just ordered a case of 12 for $140

Yes, true as almost any right on the shelf at Wal Mart, or the chain auto stores synthetic oils are quite great nowadays.

It's just that I am very OCD about motor oil and transaxle fluid, and will spend a bit more for the (yes, albeit unnecessary) 'warm and fuzzies, psychological headroom' which the super premium all group 4/5 base stock, premium additive pack oils provide.

Granted, Ravenol, with their DXG price increases, sort of priced themselves even out of my 'spend more with no qualms' range, but I might even go back to them if I am very under-whelmed by the LiquiMoly Molygen stuff.

Yes, I know all about Amsoil's preferred customer program/membership, as I was in it myself for many years in the past.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Have any of you tried Mobil 1 annual protection. They claim it’s good for 20,000 miles. If anyone has had an oil analysis done for Mobil 1, please share. Especially if it was their annual protection oil.

And someone made a video of their testing lab and how they tested the oil in several vehicles. I believe they were all turbocharged as well. They put them on a Dyno, and drove them at varying speed and load for 20,000 mile intervals. And then changed the oil and did it again. I believe they did this for a total of 150-200k miles and then tore the motor apart to see if it meant their specifications for wear. At least this is what they claimed when being recording in a video that would he shown to millions of people. In any case I’ve always hated mobil 1. Their oil and their gas are both shit in my opinion. I believe they are extremely over priced because of their name and don’t have anywhere near the quality of pennzoil ultra or Amsoil.

I have a blackstone Report on their 5w20 Annual protection somewhere..i find it and post it up if you want.