Dealer says brakes need service at 25k miles

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TheStig

TheStig

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Thread Starter #21
25k doesn't seem too bad considering what we know about the torque vectoring eating up pads. Hell, my wife's Altima is at 70k and I just put on the 3rd set of pads and 2nd set of rotors a few weeks ago (although to be fair, she's pretty hard on her brakes). As far as what the dealer wants to charge, I'm pretty sure they consider front one axle and rear one axle. It's still better to do it yourself though. Front pads are literally removal of one bolt (on virtually every car), swing the caliper up, swap pads, push the piston in with a C-clamp, then reverse the process. Done.
I have no problem doing it, ive done probably 30+ brake rebuilds, swaps, bleeds, etc on my quads over the years. Different system, relatively same concept.

I just dont want to be stuck with rotors that need resurfaced.
 


RAAMaudio

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#22
Please pay attention to the part about grooves, important info for your concerns:)

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Shops replacing pads at 2-3mm is just good business practice, no fault in that as most customers will not be having their vehicles looked at for quite some time.

I only takes a few minutes and that is all that is needed, 99.99% of the time as long as the brakes have been properly maintained or the rotors have had a very rough life or a very long life.

If you just take a look at them once in awhile and replace when down to 1mm or so you will be fine, use them up!

Buy some pads, keep them in the car if on a trip or swap before you go, keep them else where until you need them.

Unless your rotors are cracked, not heat checked which is fine if not severe, or slightly grooved they do not need changed, new pads wear into the grooves and work perfectly fine, I have ran grooved rotors without issue for years of service.

If you feel vibration and think the rotors are warped, that hardly ever happens.

What does happen is getting the brakes nice and hot and coming to a stop and sitting there with your foot on the brake pedal transferring pad material to the rotors and now you have a spot that makes it feel like warped.

Often that will clean off with some hard use of the brakes, if not then some brake cleaner and steel wool, if that does not work then they might need turned.

I have driven at least 1 million miles, huge amount of it hauling arse, raced cars, trucks, some rallies, etc...and had one set of rotors turned, ever, broke a couple and just replaced pads and then rotors as needed the rest of the time and get a huge amount of life out of rotors and I use brakes hard.
 


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#23
I work in service at a dealer, and as others have stated, if you have 6mm, you certainly do not need replacement yet. Maybe a brake service/cleaning to help keep them working in good order, but that's it. I'm just about at 18,000km on my FiST, and I'll be doing a brake service on mine at the next oil change at work, which is earlier than we recommend to our customers, but my damn brakes squeal and squeak like crazy in light applications.
 


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#24
had to get new break pads plus one rotor cost me 500$..
 


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#26
16k, and my axles, and motor mount broke prior to that.
 


D1JL

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#28
I just inspected my rear brakes because I was working back there and I am soon in need of rear pads.
I am just coming up to 25K so I guess that is normal for this car.
Anyway new OE pads are only $45.00 so I ordered a set.




Dave
 


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#29
Same here. After 20k, front pad is at 3mm and rear at 4mm. Time for an upgrade. Any recommendations??? New rotors with SS lines and something with less brake dust?!?!
 


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#30
I upgraded rotors to stoptech slotted, kept oem rear pads, and whatever the slightly better than oem pads were for the fronts on rockauto. This was around 23k miles or so, so this seems fairly standard. The slightly better pads for the fronts are even more dusty, but they have really nice stopping power. Next will be a fluid and SS line upgrade.
 




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