Thinking about a FiST

[briandee]

Does anyone know if my AP3 for a 2013 FoST is compatible with 2016 FiST. I know the RS is not and requires a send out to Cobb to be calibrated. It would be nice to just swap it over and just purchase a new tune

Yes, I purchased mine from someone with a 2013 FoST, and I have a 2016 FiST. They are the same tuner. (AP3-FOR-001)

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

 

[Waterfan]

...I'm into drivers cars and the joy of driving is my focus...

For me, this is where the FiST is simply the most-fun-to-be-had-at-legal-speeds-for-minimal-costs in the US today. Abarth, MX-5 and BRZ/FRS fit here too, but the FiST has the advantage of being more usable, more refined, more affordable or some combination thereof (by comparison).

Good luck with your decisions...

 

[Crooked Letta]

For me, this is where the FiST is simply the most-fun-to-be-had-at-legal-speeds-for-minimal-costs in the US today. Abarth, MX-5 and BRZ/FRS fit here too, but the FiST has the advantage of being more usable, more refined, more affordable or some combination thereof (by comparison).

Good luck with your decisions...

Thank you I'm pretty close just trying to hunt down a KB optioned how i want. We found one so just waiting to see if they will trade.

I totally agree and this why i'm coming to my conclusion. I love the nimbleness of the FiST and it will only make my boring commute better. I use to work at a Chevy dealer and the commute was the same distance but I had a chance to open it up more. My FoST is great and I can have my fun hitting apexes while getting the perfect line on an on-ramp. Had some nice stretches of 45mph roads you could really open it up as much as you can on a 10 minute commute lol. Now the pace is slower but there are some fun spots and the FiST would just make the drive all around more fun.

I think the Fist is a great starting platform and the reward per dollar is there more then the FoST. I planned for an RS starting 3 years ago but the more I think about it I'm not sure how much better it would be then what I could make a FiST for my type of driving. Lets just say I would DD an Ariel Atom and I love that raw connected feel. The FoST has it but only when you push it and work it which I love but the chances to get there have lessened I see an RS potential making this worse, have to at least drive one to find out which I will hopefully soon. My mind is pretty much set, there is just something that can not be ignored in how amazing this vehicle is for the driver. You can make easy reliable power with out internals and the chassis is set up very good from Ford.

 

[BRGT350]

They also have a Quaife LSD. For basic mods it is unbelievable on how they do. I split my time there. First I did a 3 day course then I went back and repeated day 3 followed by 4 and 5. I was with another student who raced Trophy truck and he wanted to stick to RWD, well when I took him down one of the roads in the FiST he couldn't believe it compared to the BMW Going to TON was his first time ever driving FWD also so he was in a bit of a shock to see a FWD dance like that lol

The LSD must be something they added for the ST. I just did the basic class and they didn't have the ST's yet. I hope to go back some day and see if my old ST is one of the school cars. When I was at TON I took a ride with Verena Mei in her Fiesta rally car and was shocked at how fast that car could go on gravel. I have never been so amazed by 140hp!

 

[M-Sport fan]

When I was at TON I took a ride with Verena Mei in her Fiesta rally car and was shocked at how fast that car could go on gravel. I have never been so amazed by 140hp!

She's campaigning a 1.0 Ecoboost Fiesta G5/R2 in Rally America, not an ST?

In any case, she is an absolute GODDESS as far as I'm concerned!!

 

[Waterfan]

Thank you I'm pretty close just trying to hunt down a KB optioned how i want. We found one so just waiting to see if they will trade.

I totally agree and this why i'm coming to my conclusion. I love the nimbleness of the FiST and it will only make my boring commute better. I use to work at a Chevy dealer and the commute was the same distance but I had a chance to open it up more. My FoST is great and I can have my fun hitting apexes while getting the perfect line on an on-ramp. Had some nice stretches of 45mph roads you could really open it up as much as you can on a 10 minute commute lol. Now the pace is slower but there are some fun spots and the FiST would just make the drive all around more fun.

I think the Fist is a great starting platform and the reward per dollar is there more then the FoST. I planned for an RS starting 3 years ago but the more I think about it I'm not sure how much better it would be then what I could make a FiST for my type of driving. Lets just say I would DD an Ariel Atom and I love that raw connected feel. The FoST has it but only when you push it and work it which I love but the chances to get there have lessened I see an RS potential making this worse, have to at least drive one to find out which I will hopefully soon. My mind is pretty much set, there is just something that can not be ignored in how amazing this vehicle is for the driver. You can make easy reliable power with out internals and the chassis is set up very good from Ford.

On the nose again if you ask me. The FiST is literally 500 lbs lighter than the FoST and the difference in driving feel cannot be overstated. (The FoST was not even on my list because the mk7 GTI is nearly 200 lbs lighter.)

Horsepower/torque can always be added. Very difficult to "add lightness" without immediately giving up convenience / features.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Horsepower/torque can always be added. Very difficult to "add lightness" without immediately giving up convenience / features.

True, but even with these relatively light to begin with cars, I would rather 'add lightness' even if it takes much coin and effort, and yes giving up some "creature comforts", since that method ALWAYS yields much more reliability with it's speed gains, due to much less stress ALL AROUND on the whole drive train, than 'throwing power at' a heavier/full weight platform does.

I wonder what a 2400 lb. (or even a little less than that) 'wet', but driverless FiST would look like?

 

[BronxBomber]

True, but even with these relatively light to begin with cars, I would rather 'add lightness' even if it takes much coin and effort, and yes giving up some "creature comforts", since that method ALWAYS yields much more reliability with it's speed gains, due to much less stress ALL AROUND on the whole drive train, than 'throwing power at' a heavier/full weight platform does.

I wonder what a 2400 lb. (or even a little less than that) 'wet', but driverless FiST would look like?

Don't let Raamaudio hear you say that. You know he preaches about light weight, but I recall you not totally agreeing with him on lightweight wheels. Raamaudio's FiST weighs a smidge over 2,500lbs with his weight reducing. Mind you, it's still a street car with noise dampening and everything but the rear seat and spare and such missing. So it's not gutted. If you totally gutted a FiST, you would be at around 2,400lbs or less.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Yes, and I do NOT disagree with him on the whole wheel weight thing, as it is an ABSOLUTE of the laws of physics which CANNOT BE refuted.

I just think that for street use only, every tenth of a gram off of the wheels/tires is not a life or death proposition (or even worth it if it entails using a wheel you can't stand the 'looks' of), that's all, especially if one is going to a substantially lighter than factory setup anyway!

Now of course, IF I were going all-out, seeking an < 2300lb. WITH full cage, pure track car, yes, I would do the PIA hub drill 4x100s and use/'settle for' the (not as 'pretty' as other wheels to ME) 15" 6ULs, or Konig Hypergrams <-(which I DO like the looks of), he touts so vociferously to save those last few micrograms of unsprung, rotating mass.

 

[Crooked Letta]

Yes, and I do NOT disagree with him on the whole wheel weight thing, as it is an ABSOLUTE of the laws of physics which CANNOT BE refuted.

I just think that for street use only, every tenth of a gram off of the wheels/tires is not a life or death proposition (or even worth it if it entails using a wheel you can't stand the 'looks' of), that's all, especially if one is going to a substantially lighter than factory setup anyway!

Now of course, IF I were going all-out, seeking an < 2300lb. WITH full cage, pure track car, yes, I would do the PIA hub drill 4x100s and use/'settle for' the (not as 'pretty' as other wheels to ME) 15" 6ULs, or Konig Hypergrams <-(which I DO like the looks of), he touts so vociferously to save those last few micrograms of unsprung, rotating mass.

To fortify your argument a bit. Lightweight wheels have their advantages but at what cost? Not all of us live on smooth roads and you throw in the race car argument and I will show you what happens when wheels reach their limit, at the limit lol. I totally agree that sometimes people get overkill on wheels and it is important but you are correct in saying that counting grams is pointless. LB for LB is about it and then it comes to strength. I would take a 15lb wheel over a 13lb wheel that cant handle a hit or take the heat from the brakes when on track. Money is also a consideration in any build, why else do they have so many race classes and so forth.

Weight should be used wisely but it is not black and white like some people think, there is a lot in-between. Every build has criteria and something like a well built IC may weigh a little more but being able to keep the IAT's down would be worth it. Then you look at Jeep guys who run 60+ flywheels and you start to understand how and why weight is important to your build and intentions.

Let's not forget the most important mod ever, the driver

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^True, but the 'wheel weight weenies' (a term of endearment, NOT ridicule! ) on here will claim that due to a certain type of construction, those 'no weight' wheels HAVE TO BE A LOT STRONGER than even much heavier wheels of a different construction, no matter how much more material is used in the heavier wheels, nor how great a heat treatment process used on them.

Having seen NO scientific evidence/proof of the above (strength despite absolute minimum weight due to construction processes ONLY), that is the part I have MAJOR doubts about, and everyone else just takes on 'faith' and the manufacturers' 'word'.

Show me some ABSOLUTE, 4th party independent, HARD fact, strength/yield testing, and I will become a 'believer' as well, and shout these wheels' merits from the mountaintops as so many on here do.

 

[Crooked Letta]

^^^True, but the 'wheel weight weenies' (a term of endearment, NOT ridicule! ) on here will claim that due to a certain type of construction, those 'no weight' wheels HAVE TO BE A LOT STRONGER than even much heavier wheels of a different construction, no matter how much more material is used in the heavier wheels, nor how great a heat treatment process used on them.

Having seen NO scientific evidence/proof of the above (strength despite absolute minimum weight due to construction processes ONLY), that is the part I have MAJOR doubts about, and everyone else just takes on 'faith' and the manufacturers' 'word'.

Show me some ABSOLUTE, 4th party independent, HARD fact, strength/yield testing, and I will become a 'believer' as well, and shout these wheels' merits from the mountaintops as so many on here do.

Correct and I think looking at the OEM says something. Look at the punishment Ford puts their vehicles through during testing. You can even take the RS as an example. 28.1lbs for the non Forged wheels and 25.7lbs for the Forged. Designed around the same vehicle to surpass the same sets of tests and the difference warrants a roughly 2.5lb difference in a 19" wheel. It isn't like they have a feather to start with either and it isn't hard to find 19" wheels which make the Forged option seem like an anchor.

It comes down to balance and walking that line of weight vs strength. I can attest to the toughness of a OE Fprged wheel on my Balt SS. I hit and island in a parking lot with an 8" curb, car got air born going around 35. I bent the LCA like a pretzel, ruined the bearing and bent the rear twist beam. The wheels had some marks and that was all. I'm very doubtful an after market wheel could show the same strength Forged or not while still being focused on super light weight.

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^GREAT points!

Ironically, the manual, turbo Balt SSes were about the ONLY affordable used car I was considering before deciding on a new (this) car.

Any of the f bodies, Stangs, or even SRT4s were either way too old, or actually not enough coin to even qualify for a loan, before we even get to how modded/beat on they were.

I could not find any manual, Turbo SSes with decent mileage on them, or in a color I would want to live with for a while, although walking past my local used car dealer last week, they had an '09 Turbo manual SS on the lot, in almost perfect shape, but it was BLACK, and I swore off ANY black cars for the rest of my days, so I never even asked them "how much?".

(It was too late anyway since this car was ordered, and had a non-refundable deposit on it already for 3 months.)

 

[alphanumeric]

Go FiST with Cobb stage 1, deadhook factory intercooler, hybrid turbo and a downpipe (I believe depot racing has the least expensive catted pipe?). If I could do it all over I'd go this route to get best bang for the buck. Plus coilovers of your choice. I'd pick the MeisterR all over again.

 

[Crooked Letta]

^^^GREAT points!

Ironically, the manual, turbo Balt SSes were about the ONLY affordable used car I was considering before deciding on a new (this) car.

Any of the f bodies, Stangs, or even SRT4s were either way too old, or actually not enough coin to even qualify for a loan, before we even get to how modded/beat on they were.

I could not find any manual, Turbo SSes with decent mileage on them, or in a color I would want to live with for a while, although walking past my local used car dealer last week, they had an '09 Turbo manual SS on the lot, in almost perfect shape, but it was BLACK, and I swore off ANY black cars for the rest of my days, so I never even asked them "how much?".

(It was too late anyway since this car was ordered, and had a non-refundable deposit on it already for 3 months.)

One of my favorite cars Mine was black lol and sadly KB FiST's are hard to come by so I may be stuck with black again . I like Black and hate it all in the same time. Having my PB FoST I wanted to stick to blue and still get that nice satisfaction from spending time on a detail like a dark color should, but still not showing every spec of dirt after a drive down the road.

That car was pretty quick with minimal mods and most importantly it felt special. It wasn't so much a drivers car but it had the basics in terms of that raw connected feel. A NLS into second when the tires had grip gave you a sense of going into warp speed, very surreal feeling in the way it built power which I loved. I love all the TQ of my Freeked FoST but it can never match the top end of the Balt SS with out a Turbo Upgrade. I never had it on the Dyno but similar mods put it around 300whp and at 2950lbs it moved pretty good.

Would I buy one again, new, yes. Cobalt's do not hold together all that well in terms of asthetics. The interiors wear out pretty bad but if you find a nice one and take care of it, you will be ok. It just takes a lot of care and working at a Chevy dealer for 8 years, most of them are pretty beat up. The good news is bushings can be changed and trim pieces replaced if need be. The transmission can have some issues but the LNF in the TC Balt SS is close to bulletproof. So drivetrain wise your good to go. Clutches do start to slip after a good tune though.

That was another FWD vehicle that solidified my belief. Keeping up with a C5 Vette in a Cobalt really makes people ponder on their midlife crisis decision lol.

 

[Crooked Letta]

Go FiST with Cobb stage 1, deadhook factory intercooler, hybrid turbo and a downpipe (I believe depot racing has the least expensive catted pipe?). If I could do it all over I'd go this route to get best bang for the buck. Plus coilovers of your choice. I'd pick the MeisterR all over again.

This is my plan as of now, Map Intake,Cp-e IC, Tune+ and plugs, Cobb CBE, Pierce Street kit, CP-e RMM, Cp-e charge pipes for when it's time for Meth, TTR engine mounts, Boomba STS and bushings, GFB DV+, Powerflex suspension bushings, and I'm thinking the MeisterR but leaning more to B14's. I honestly would love to throw a set of MCS's on but they don't have them for the FiST I could get some custom made but $$$$.

I plan to get my tune and plugs, then do some pulls and see how the car feels. I want to at least put on the IC pretty early as I'm sure it sucks as bad as the FoST does. I'm not sure how much I will do before a Hybrid turbo but a DP was thought of. I will go over that with Adam when I get my tune. There is some things in the works with this and the X-37 is most likely. The C39 seems like a good option but too early to tell. There was also talk of a X-37+ but that may not pull through. Then you have another step beyond all those which would be the MRX from Mountune. If they mimic the MRX FoST kit, I will most likely go this route except that kit already uses the smallest EFR and our engines are too small unless we utilize and extended redline to counter. Basically I'm looking to keep the powerband between 3000-7000 and at least 260whp on 93 but 300 would be ideal. With a Turbo swap I would only go this route if 330-350whp was possible and response was not over 3500. I stay in low gears when I drive, but when your mountain carving a thick linier power band is ideal

I usually research cars for a while, like 2 years lol. My last 2 vehicles I followed a while before they came out. I was down the same road with the RS but never anticipated this huge of a delay. I knew it was going to be bad, but nothing like it is . My mods I listed are basically from 1 week of searching so any input would be great

 

[BRGT350]

She's campaigning a 1.0 Ecoboost Fiesta G5/R2 in Rally America, not an ST?

In any case, she is an absolute GODDESS as far as I'm concerned!!

Her car was a 1.6L NA with European IB5 transmission. It was closer to a R1 than a R2. The car was pretty much stock except for safety equipment and some parts robbed from the EU Fiesta Movement cars. The car was sold to Preston (I think) who put a new 2014+ nose on it. Her car is easy to spot, it is silver with mismatched window trim after it rolled in one of the first rallies.

 

[alphanumeric]

This is my plan as of now, Map Intake,Cp-e IC, Tune+ and plugs, Cobb CBE, Pierce Street kit, CP-e RMM, Cp-e charge pipes for when it's time for Meth, TTR engine mounts, Boomba STS and bushings, GFB DV+, Powerflex suspension bushings, and I'm thinking the MeisterR but leaning more to B14's. I honestly would love to throw a set of MCS's on but they don't have them for the FiST I could get some custom made but $$$$.

I plan to get my tune and plugs, then do some pulls and see how the car feels. I want to at least put on the IC pretty early as I'm sure it sucks as bad as the FoST does. I'm not sure how much I will do before a Hybrid turbo but a DP was thought of. I will go over that with Adam when I get my tune. There is some things in the works with this and the X-37 is most likely. The C39 seems like a good option but too early to tell. There was also talk of a X-37+ but that may not pull through. Then you have another step beyond all those which would be the MRX from Mountune. If they mimic the MRX FoST kit, I will most likely go this route except that kit already uses the smallest EFR and our engines are too small unless we utilize and extended redline to counter. Basically I'm looking to keep the powerband between 3000-7000 and at least 260whp on 93 but 300 would be ideal. With a Turbo swap I would only go this route if 330-350whp was possible and response was not over 3500. I stay in low gears when I drive, but when your mountain carving a thick linier power band is ideal

I usually research cars for a while, like 2 years lol. My last 2 vehicles I followed a while before they came out. I was down the same road with the RS but never anticipated this huge of a delay. I knew it was going to be bad, but nothing like it is . My mods I listed are basically from 1 week of searching so any input would be great

You're going to need an access tuner to tune the car at most tuners in the states and I believe the cheapest way to go about it is the Cobb stage 1 package which is the same price everywhere and also has a RMM and high flow filter. Can't go wrong with Cp-e. I actually just saw one of their FMICs in person today...I have Cobb and I'm extremely happy with it. You mentioned the Cobb CBE which I have installed...honestly I'd just do the DP if I did it all over again just for cabin noise. I live in Germany so daily driving I'm going 70-100mph for about 15 miles of my commute and I hate how loud it gets just cruising. Not really a problem in the states haha. It sounds great around town and such. Much more...elegant? than the MBRP I've seen/heard here.

I'll be one of the first people receiving the C39 so I'll let you know how that goes. I'm praying for 270whp on 93 oct but at this point we don't know if I'm asking too much lol. I'll be posting a full review when it's installed and tuned. Also installing my DV+ and cobb downpipe the same day as the turbo so if you end up getting the FiST and have any questions I should be able to help but I mean really those two parts are pretty straight forward. Hmmm what else. Oh the street kit. I want it lol. I've taken my car up to the nurburgring to do a couple track days and the German FiST owner I meet up with has the 2 point with sway bars (st suspensions I believe) which makes a much bigger difference than I ever would have thought. I just got some used eibach sway bars for a price I couldn't say no to so I'll just be ordering the rear brace and 2 point. (gotta save money somewhere.) As for the CP-e charge pipes...if you want the meth injection which I'd do if I could I'd grab them up too. I've had two different hot side charge pipes. Cobb and MBRP. The Cobb is definitely lighter and larger diameter. The MBRP feels sturdier/heavier but also smaller diameter. Also I have the tune+ spec plugs but haven't installed them yet. I'll probably do that and the symposer delete tomorrow.

 

[alphanumeric]

Oh coilovers sorry. I had ordered the B14 but cancelled it after seeing them side-by-side with the MeisterR. The full adjustability is great. I had to pay about 50 bucks more for the MeisterR but it was without a doubt worth it. I really feel their quality exceeds their price. I'm sure other people would agree? [MENTION=759]Hijinx[/MENTION] The Bilstein are obviously a vast improvement over stock though. Plus I think you can get them pretty cheap stateside from modbargains.

 

[Crooked Letta]

You're going to need an access tuner to tune the car at most tuners in the states and I believe the cheapest way to go about it is the Cobb stage 1 package which is the same price everywhere and also has a RMM and high flow filter. Can't go wrong with Cp-e. I actually just saw one of their FMICs in person today...I have Cobb and I'm extremely happy with it. You mentioned the Cobb CBE which I have installed...honestly I'd just do the DP if I did it all over again just for cabin noise. I live in Germany so daily driving I'm going 70-100mph for about 15 miles of my commute and I hate how loud it gets just cruising. Not really a problem in the states haha. It sounds great around town and such. Much more...elegant? than the MBRP I've seen/heard here.

I'll be one of the first people receiving the C39 so I'll let you know how that goes. I'm praying for 270whp on 93 oct but at this point we don't know if I'm asking too much lol. I'll be posting a full review when it's installed and tuned. Also installing my DV+ and cobb downpipe the same day as the turbo so if you end up getting the FiST and have any questions I should be able to help but I mean really those two parts are pretty straight forward. Hmmm what else. Oh the street kit. I want it lol. I've taken my car up to the nurburgring to do a couple track days and the German FiST owner I meet up with has the 2 point with sway bars (st suspensions I believe) which makes a much bigger difference than I ever would have thought. I just got some used eibach sway bars for a price I couldn't say no to so I'll just be ordering the rear brace and 2 point. (gotta save money somewhere.) As for the CP-e charge pipes...if you want the meth injection which I'd do if I could I'd grab them up too. I've had two different hot side charge pipes. Cobb and MBRP. The Cobb is definitely lighter and larger diameter. The MBRP feels sturdier/heavier but also smaller diameter. Also I have the tune+ spec plugs but haven't installed them yet. I'll probably do that and the symposer delete tomorrow.

APv3 is not an issue as I have one already with my FoST. I just heard that Adam is no longer carrying the X-37 so my options have kind of dwindled. From what I gathered 260whp on 93 was achievable with the X-37. I can't wait for your review as this may be the direction I go, good news is I have time and the 200whp a tune will get me along with supporting mods can hold me over lol. I was looking at the Cobb FMIC but I have the small Cp-e on my FoST and love it so I think I'm going that route. You are 100% correct on my CBE choice as that is the type of driving I do. My last two vehicles I just did a muffler delete, my Balt SS sounded incredible, the FoST ehhhh it's ok. This is also a route I could explore and if needed combine with a DP. I may get back into audio again so highway cruising will be easy to drown out any unwanted noise lol.

Oh coilovers sorry. I had ordered the B14 but cancelled it after seeing them side-by-side with the MeisterR. The full adjustability is great. I had to pay about 50 bucks more for the MeisterR but it was without a doubt worth it. I really feel their quality exceeds their price. I'm sure other people would agree? @<a href="http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/member.php?u=759" target="_blank">Hijinx</a> The Bilstein are obviously a vast improvement over stock though. Plus I think you can get them pretty cheap stateside from modbargains.

I know I'm still split. Do you have a link of the comparison thread? I have searched and read upon the B14's and all have said amazing things. The one thing I know is the B14's will endure the harsh winters we have and this is one reason, also for the money it is known as the best damper around. I like the higher spring rates of the MiesterR though and I'm not sure but look like 2.5 inch coils so they can be swapped out if I wanted. Good news is again I have some time lol.

This is not typically how I do things when buying a car but I usually already have a good basis of the platform and solutions to problems. My timing is a little off as we are approaching winter but I like to at least get a solid 2 months of driving before I purchase anything other then a tune. I like to approach mods as dollar per reward and I start with the biggest weak points that I feel in my type of driving and then go down the ladder.

I should state my plans as well. This vehicle will be my DD. That means I need to retain a usable power band, reliability and most important fun factor. I like my vehicles raw so things like a rear seat delete are not out of question as I'm kidless and plan to be for at least 2 more years. I have never really kept a car long enough to see it as a financially wise decision with a lot of mods over the 1k mark. I would spend 4k on a sound system though but that I would take vehicle to vehicle. The RS was going to be a vehicle I would of kept for at least 4 years, the FiST I'm not sure but with the deal I can get, 5k in total mods is wise to me as long as they show their worth.

The type of driving I do is sadly kind of slow these days with my commute, all around town. My FoST has 25k miles on it and it's 3.5 years old. I love epic road trips but have not had a chance this year to do so with switching jobs. I planned on tracking the RS, well at least in my head depending on if I have time. I have done a lot of driving experiences and have been to Octane Academy with 1 day Ford racing school, Team Oniel 5 day Rally School, Exotics Racing, 1 day Ariel Atom event, and a few other things here and their. I like racing schools but would love to get into HPDE it's just the time problem. My priority will always be balance with power and handling along with ultimate fun. This is why the FiST seems so amazing to me and will fit my driving style perfect. I search out amazing driving roads and have planned whole vacas around them, my last one was 2500 miles round trip and included a 460mile long mountain blasting road called the Blue Ridge Parkway, then took a day to explore the Tail of the Dragon and on my way back stopped at VIR to drive an Ariel Atom all day. That one is going to be hard to beat lol.

These are some of my videos. Sadly I do not have footage of my TON day 4&5 as the first time I went I found a guy and partnered with him and we took videos of each other. That would of been awesome if I did to see a FiST on dirt flying down the woods in true Rally fashion. Honestly one of the best times of my life and made me fall in love with the FiST. I have done multiple Exotic car experiences and those are a blast while getting a lesson on technique as well. Nothing like a screaming Ferrari flat plane 8 in a gutted vehicle .

Some of my favs. That is a regular Fiesta BTW in the rally vid, crazy how well even a base handles lol. I have some more as well
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=crookedletta260&tbm=vid

[video=youtube;-ywXpyeh-Nw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ywXpyeh-Nw[/video]

[video=youtube;idu6RzdIExU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idu6RzdIExU[/video]

[video=youtube;84glNSvqKdo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=84glNSvqKdo[/video]

Thank you for all your input and I will be watching closely for the C39 review. If it fits my goals then this will be the one providing some one doesn't come up with an ideal BT upgrade.