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Beyond Frustrated

Messages
230
Likes
107
Location
Maine
#1
Current problem is this:

Car intermittently will not start.

Error messages are:
These occur on the Sync3 Screen.

Immobilizer System Malfunction. Service now.
Steering Column Fault.


No actual codes from canbus system after an incident. Power is completely cut to OBDII port when it gives these errors.

I was able to get these from the SRS system once the car comes out of it:
U0100
B00A0
B11D8
U0423

The car will randomly shut off when driving, for a split second and turn back on again. A blip of a check engine light occurs but no codes are stored as the ecu resets itself as if the battery were disconnected. I once got a code P2610 but havnt seen it again.

Fobb batteries and car battery are brand new. Dealership is at a loss as they havnt been able to get it to do it for them when they start it. Not sure where to begin looking myself as they have 7 hours into it already and have no answers. Not really sure what they have done so far.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 


M-Sport fan

9000 Post Club
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Location
Solebury, Pa.
#3
Do you have an AP (or any OBD plug-in device) hooked up currently?

The only time this car has ever cut out on me while driving (or even idling) was when I plugged the Ultra Gauge into the OBD port AFTER the engine was already running.

But yes, what green_henry said above is where I would start.
 


Capri to ST

Senior Member
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Location
CHAPEL HILL, NC
#4
I agree that greenhenry's suggestion about the alternator is a good one. My first thought when I read your post was a bad battery, until I got to the part where it says it's brand new. Even a brand new battery can sometimes be defective though, so I would double-check that.
 


Messages
382
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341
Location
Osage Beach, MO, USA
#5
Every example (which was only a few) I could find of that fault was fixed either by replacing the battery in the key fob or by replacing the car battery. There was one case where the fob battery was dead, but even after it was replaced the error persisted until the car battery was disconnected and reconnected to reset the computer.
 


OP
PerfectCreature
Messages
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Location
Maine
Thread Starter #6
Every example (which was only a few) I could find of that fault was fixed either by replacing the battery in the key fob or by replacing the car battery. There was one case where the fob battery was dead, but even after it was replaced the error persisted until the car battery was disconnected and reconnected to reset the computer.
I’ve done this.
Charging system is not showing any issues so not sure if alternator is causing it or not.
 


Messages
382
Likes
341
Location
Osage Beach, MO, USA
#7
Reading your description of the behavior brings to mind the possibility of a bad/intermittent connection. The immobilizer is either just a subroutine in the ecu or in some cars a separate device. Perhaps a check of the connections going to and from the ecu would be in order.
 


OP
PerfectCreature
Messages
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Location
Maine
Thread Starter #8
Reading your description of the behavior brings to mind the possibility of a bad/intermittent connection. The immobilizer is either just a subroutine in the ecu or in some cars a separate device. Perhaps a check of the connections going to and from the ecu would be in order.
Would someone with access to the dealer network be able to get me some wiring diagrams of this?

I looked at electrical connections and I didn’t see anything out of the ordinary.
 


OP
PerfectCreature
Messages
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Location
Maine
Thread Starter #9
Do you have an AP (or any OBD plug-in device) hooked up currently?

The only time this car has ever cut out on me while driving (or even idling) was when I plugged the Ultra Gauge into the OBD port AFTER the engine was already running.

But yes, what green_henry said above is where I would start.
Yes. I have had the access port installed for nearly a year before this issue. It stays plugged in and is auto off feature to limit battery drain.
 


OP
PerfectCreature
Messages
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Location
Maine
Thread Starter #10
Every example (which was only a few) I could find of that fault was fixed either by replacing the battery in the key fob or by replacing the car battery. There was one case where the fob battery was dead, but even after it was replaced the error persisted until the car battery was disconnected and reconnected to reset the computer.
Car battery being disconnected and completely, pos and neg for 10-15 minutes does not eliminate the issue. It will persist after doing so.
 


koozy

3000 Post Club
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#12
Trying disconnecting both ECU harnesses, check the pins and reconnect them after disconnecting the battery first of course. Similar scenario happened to someone here and it was a pin in one of the ECU Harnesses that was tweaked and not making good contact. Next I would look at the service manual and find all of the engine compartment grounds, remove, clean and reconnect. Others have found some to be loose causing weird issues as described. If none of that works, flash the ECU back to stock if you have an aftermarket tune and go from there.
 


OP
PerfectCreature
Messages
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Location
Maine
Thread Starter #13
The dealership currently has the vehicle at the moment.
I may trailer it back if it doesn’t start and try the above mentioned.
Any other suggestions?
Are the ground points in the actual manual I found 3 by memory that I know I checked.
 


OP
PerfectCreature
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Thread Starter #15

koozy

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#16
Also check both cables on the battery even though you may have a new battery, if the cables are compromised they will cause issues. On the Negative cable make sure the little box that houses the battery management system is still good and battery acid/corrosion hasn’t penetrated it. IIRC, on the positive cable there is a 1 or 3 amp fuse next to the post, make sure the fuse is not corroded or blown.
 


Last edited:
Messages
15
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0
Location
Cleveland
#17
Had a similar problem, replaced battery and dealer replaced ECU but no cigar. I never 100% figured out what was wrong, but readjusting my steering wheel "fixed" my problem. The first time I tried it, my car wouldn't start and I just randomly decided to mess with everything in the car out of frustration and I got it started. Had to do that a few more time afterwards, and one time I actually did it while I was driving right when I saw the Christmas lights going off on the dash and just keep driving. I haven't had to readjust since, and it's been a little shy of a year since my issue. One thing I've noticed, heat might be a contributing factor, not sure.

Tldr: try readjusting your steering wheel position, tilt and telescope
 


OP
PerfectCreature
Messages
230
Likes
107
Location
Maine
Thread Starter #18
Had a similar problem, replaced battery and dealer replaced ECU but no cigar. I never 100% figured out what was wrong, but readjusting my steering wheel "fixed" my problem. The first time I tried it, my car wouldn't start and I just randomly decided to mess with everything in the car out of frustration and I got it started. Had to do that a few more time afterwards, and one time I actually did it while I was driving right when I saw the Christmas lights going off on the dash and just keep driving. I haven't had to readjust since, and it's been a little shy of a year since my issue. One thing I've noticed, heat might be a contributing factor, not sure.

Tldr: try readjusting your steering wheel position, tilt and telescope
That’s an interesting point. It has been very hot the last few weeks that it has happened.
Have not tried adjusting the steering wheel to be honest but I could try that.
The dealer thinks it could be the RFA module. That it would unlock and lock but not start. I dunno anymore.
 


Messages
15
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0
Location
Cleveland
#19
That’s an interesting point. It has been very hot the last few weeks that it has happened.
Have not tried adjusting the steering wheel to be honest but I could try that.
The dealer thinks it could be the RFA module. That it would unlock and lock but not start. I dunno anymore.

Sounds like they're playing the guessing game like my dealer did. Did they fix your problem yet?
 




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