• Sign Up! To view all forums and unlock additional cool features

    Welcome to the #1 Fiesta ST Forum and Fiesta ST community dedicated to Fiesta ST owners and enthusiasts. Register for an account, it's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the Fiesta ST Forum today!


DHM’s Build

OP
dhminer

dhminer

2000 Post Club
Messages
2,217
Likes
2,660
Location
Burlington, NC, USA
Thread Starter #101
That is definitely nice looking. What performance advantages does it bring?
Should be significant. External wastegate for better boost control and serviceability and mates up to the Garrett G25 which has a much bigger inlet than the 2860 as well as faster spool and more top end. Good for 400whp+ but I won’t tune it to that.
 


OP
dhminer

dhminer

2000 Post Club
Messages
2,217
Likes
2,660
Location
Burlington, NC, USA
Thread Starter #104
Finally starting to look like an engine that might run.

Bending the hard fuel line between the HPFP and fuel rail was a huge pain in the ass and afterwards, I was stupid enough to forget I removed the injector wiring harness and freaked out trying to plug the ignition coil harness into injectors lol. Shout out to @TyphoonFiST for informing me that I’m an idiot.

Also a pain in the ass - lining up and clamping the Vband downpipe with only one hand, tons of silicone trimming to get the intake to fit, and the MAF sensor wire isn’t long enough. Luckily I didn’t toss Kirk’s old 2J intake that he gave me with the turbo kit, so I have the MAF extension from it. Intake still rubs the ECU cover so I said forget it and stuck some adhesive foam on there. Real snug and shouldn’t be a problem.

Need a few more parts from radium to finish the fuel line, a fresh set of plugs, and install the Phul low side fuel pump and his ignition coil bracket/Focus ign coils and it’ll be ready to start it up. Hoping to get the BC coils and rear camber plates on ahead of track day but getting it running and tuned is priority 1.
IMG_6899.jpeg
 


Messages
209
Likes
148
Location
none
Which one? I’ve done it this way 8x now and no issues. I’m really good at breaking stuff though.
The tiny coolant one going across the radiator and into the coolant tank. I have had that connector break and the small one from the lower coolant tank connector to the back of the engine. Over time they can brittle and crack easily. They did make the lower one out of rubber in a later revision.
Mind you the o-ring can swell and make it hard to remove from the coolant tank. I replaced the lower one with the new revision rubber one because it snapped. And my ST is an old '14.
1709644874501.png
 


Last edited:

Dialcaliper

Active member
Messages
768
Likes
1,286
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
FYI that coolant line you’re talking about is the return line from the turbo. Irritating to replace (intake and battery box/ecu have to come out). It’s pretty simple to disconnect from the reservoir, which it looks like you’ve got dangling out of the way anyway (just don’t break the clips getting it off)
 


OP
dhminer

dhminer

2000 Post Club
Messages
2,217
Likes
2,660
Location
Burlington, NC, USA
Thread Starter #109
The tiny coolant one going across the radiator and into the coolant tank. I have had that connector break and the small one from the lower coolant tank connector to the back of the engine. Over time they can brittle and crack easily. They did make the lower one out of rubber in a later revision.
Mind you the o-ring can swell and make it hard to remove from the coolant tank. I replaced the lower one with the new revision rubber one because it snapped. And my ST is an old '14.
View attachment 60472
Ah, yeah it’s pushed up there but there’s actually no tension on it at all. I’m way less worried about that than I am my ability to do the fuel line to/from the ethanol content sensor properly!
 


OP
dhminer

dhminer

2000 Post Club
Messages
2,217
Likes
2,660
Location
Burlington, NC, USA
Thread Starter #110
Flex fuel sensor and fuel line are complete and got the non-recirculated downpipe and screamer in after the recirculated WG downpipe didn’t fit up properly. Had about 1/2” gap between the downpipe and wastegate that the flex joint couldn’t handle. Guess it’s going to be loud for a while until I get that fixed. Bummer I ceramic coated that one but not the non-recirculated because I planned on having it hacked up and a catalytic converter added.

IMG_6944.jpeg IMG_6946.jpeg IMG_6948.jpeg
 


OP
dhminer

dhminer

2000 Post Club
Messages
2,217
Likes
2,660
Location
Burlington, NC, USA
Thread Starter #115
Installed the rear torsion beam shims from Fusion Works and had it corner balanced, aligned, and track inspected while I was traveling during the week. Shop found precisely nothing that needed addressed which I was shocked by given it’s 8 years old and has 85k miles. Didn’t change the ride height much since -2.5° camber up front alleviated any rubbing despite it being pretty damn low. The BCs on 10 clicks from soft feel great on the street. They’re pretty soft in general with the standard 5k/3k springs, so I’m expecting to have to dial them up to full stiff for track days but anticipate the fatter rear anti sway bar and trunk brace will help out a little with getting the back to step out when coaxed.

IMG_7099.jpeg
IMG_7096.jpeg IMG_7097.jpeg IMG_7098.jpeg
 


Last edited:
OP
dhminer

dhminer

2000 Post Club
Messages
2,217
Likes
2,660
Location
Burlington, NC, USA
Thread Starter #120
Should use Fuel injection style clamps instead of worm gear* The worm gear style will eat into the hose over time*

https://www.amazon.com/XtremeAmazin...9&psc=1&mcid=c7508f7c2a8d320d835bb520f4a8b881
Yeah I ordered some stainless ones specifically for this size fuel line from Radium when I ordered the fuel line and for some reason, they don’t fit despite being marked as being the correct size. Will be swapping them as soon as the larger ones arrive
 


Similar threads



Top