EcoBoost Short Block

re-rx7

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#2
its a factory short block?
 


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Sekred

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Thread Starter #3
So its a open Deck design, not idea if your chasing lots of horsepower.
Cylinder spacing are also very close together, typically this is where you will blown the head gasket fire ring.

blockdesign.jpg
 


re-rx7

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From the info, yes.
I see where you are going now. My apologies. LOL Yea not gd for alot of HP. Headstuds will be key to making the engine hold.
 


RAAMaudio

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#6
Need a cylinder wall girdle, I have seen that called other names as well, it you want big power out of this engine.
 


razorlab

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If you are really going after big horsepower (why?) then it looks like a B16 block, you would sleeve it for those levels.

4B11 is semi-closed and most sleeve it after 550hp+
 


RAAMaudio

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#9
Big HP in this car would make it entertaining in some ways and a pain in the arse in many others, there are better platforms for big power and for less money in the long run;)

I had never heard of the girdles not doing much but I got into LS's, and other engines quite a few years back and never spent time in the little engine that could realm until this car. I have had other boosted smaller engines as well the last 10 years or so but never wanted big power so never spent time there.

If I wanted a monster ST I would of made mine RWD and stuffed the forged LS I just sold into it.

I came very close to putting an LS6 in the back seat of a Scion TC a few years back, then decided to build a turbo system instead as it would made all the power I wanted for a butt load less work.

---------------

The intent and purpose of this car really does not call for a ton of power, simply not needed and not very usable except for bragging rights.
 


re-rx7

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#10
If you are really going after big horsepower (why?) then it looks like a B16 block, you would sleeve it for those levels.

4B11 is semi-closed and most sleeve it after 550hp+
All true. B series blocks usually hold around 300-350 bone stock before the rods give out. Thats said the blocks usually hold 450-500.
Big HP in this car would make it entertaining in some ways and a pain in the arse in many others, there are better platforms for big power and for less money in the long run;)
I agree. I think 300whp is a perfect number.
 


RAAMaudio

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I would be very happy with 250WHP and a nice torque curve as have had a similar weight FWD that way and it was great fun but I always wanted a bit more. For this car my goal was 275-300WHP but am working with the modded stock turbo and I know not getting there but some of the tunes where dang fun, right now it is getting a real serious tune on 91 as a base line for an E30 tune so I will see how it goes. If not enough then will do an EFR 6258 and it will be more than enough.

300WHP would be more than enough for some instances so I would have the tune setup to help deal with that like less boost in 1st and second at lower RPMs, etc......
 


razorlab

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#12
All true. B series blocks usually hold around 300-350 bone stock before the rods give out. Thats said the blocks usually hold 450-500.

I agree. I think 300whp is a perfect number.
It's also what WRC is regulated to. ;) It would be interesting to see what M-Sport does internally to the 1.6L's in the R5's. I already know they upgrade to the Focus ST intake manifold on the outside.
 


razorlab

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#14
Do they still make nuts torque in WRC?
I would imagine since they still use a FIA regulated 32mm restrictor. Have to get power under the curve some how and it ain't gonna be up top with that restrictor. ;)
 


RAAMaudio

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#15
I can imagine with awd, climbing hills, pulling from a dig often, they make some very serious torque, I think it used to reported around 450-500 flt lbs.
 


razorlab

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I can imagine with awd, climbing hills, pulling from a dig often, they make some very serious torque, I think it used to reported around 450-500 flt lbs.
Like this? 515wtq



Heh, that was a 2.4L Evo with a smallish (for a Evo) turbo I tuned on E85. Felt pretty good on the street. ;)
 


D1JL

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#17
300-350WHP is nuts for a FWD daily driver.
Been there, done that, in a twin charged Mini.
I still have a twin charge kit if anyone is interested.



Dave
 


TheStig

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#18
If you are really going after big horsepower (why?) then it looks like a B16 block, you would sleeve it for those levels.

4B11 is semi-closed and most sleeve it after 550hp+
Bingo, seen plenty of HIGH hp cars that are darton MID sleeved or the like.
 


D1JL

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#19
The shipping from the UK could be rather high.


Dave
 


Sourskittle

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#20
Pretty sure on the honda D16 motors they preferred "studding" the block. They would drill into the side of the block and tap it with threads. Then run a stud thru the block until it hit the cylinder. Then they would cut the left over piece off stud off and epoxy over it. This way, when the cylinder tried to distort side to side ( or front of the car to back of the car ), the studs would help support it.

At the sametime, the "block girdles" that open deck D16 motors have avaliable needed to be installed by a machine shop. Often during install, the girdle would distort the cylinder when it was pressed in. And on top of that... The reduced cooling ( due to this big piece of alum in your water jacket that wasn't supposed to be there ) sometimes caused motors to run warmer than than they had before.

But that's what I remember from my D16 years on "home made turbo .com" like 13 years ago, lol.

I never had a set of rods/pistons that could push the stock sleeves in my D16. It was a $200 long block, why bother? Lol.
 


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