Fast road/ light track suspension set up recommendations

[borg1087]

I fell in love with my FiST and need a suggestion for a fast road/ light track suspension set up. I am not interested in slamming it or getting rid of wheel gap and destroying control arm angles and suspension compliance. I currently have Bilstein b6’s on stock springs. I do have a TB performance traction bar. I am looking for real world data and experience, I’m an engineer. This forum has been great and everyone I’ve had interactions with, have been fantastic. Thanks I’m advance for the guidance and advice.
Brett

 

[FJ16]

I currently have Bilstein b6’s on stock springs.

How do you like them? I take it they aren't quite enough, or else you wouldn't be asking for further recommendations?

 

[borg1087]

I’ve used Bilstein’d for years and their valving seems to be spot on for numerous applications. I find the spring and shock set up just about right and not jouncy like the factory set up. I am looking for control arm, braces, alignment and general suggestions.
also I forgot to mention that I have a quaife LSD

 

[Freefallin16]

I’m in the same boat as you Brett. All stock suspension wise right now but do have much lighter OZ wheels on the car. Was looking into either the Koni or Bilstein Mountune kit. The fronts are pre-assembled which makes install much quicker and easier, but also I have heard good things about the Mountune springs. I have also heard great things about Swift springs. Like you, I’m not looking to slam the car and mess up suspension geometry not to mention risk damaging the underside of the car.

In what ways would you say the B6’s improved the ver compared to stock? Furthermore, what additionally are you looking for that the B6 w/factory springs didn’t give you?

Sean

 

[M-Sport fan]

If the factory springs were up around 225 lb. in. rate range, instead of the what, 156 fronts on my '16, I would just throw them over the B6es and call it a day.

But I really want more spring rate, without any (or at least the absolute minimal) lowering, so my search/research continues for now.

 

[akiraproject24]

I’ve used Bilstein’d for years and their calving seems to be spot on for numerous applications. I find the spring and shock set up just about right and not jouncy like the factory set up. I am looking for control arm, braces, alignment and general suggestions.
also I forgot to mention that I have a quaife LSD

Motor mounts would tighten things up. Are you running a RMM or PMM?

Sounds like you like your springs and struts and already have a front traction bar which would have been a recommendation

 

[borg1087]

The B6’s made the care far less jouncy and more controlled. I haven’t cornet weighted it yet. I was also thinking about rear camber plates. Overall I am very happy with the stock springs and the B6’s.

 

[Freefallin16]

Can someone explain what corner weighting is or actually does? Does it really benefit a dd?

Sean

 

[SteveS]

Can someone explain what corner weighting is or actually does? Does it really benefit a dd?

Sean

This is a good explanation, and fits it in with what you've heard if you have watched NASCAR or other circle track racing. https://robrobinette.com/corner_weight.htm

 

[Mikey456]

Can someone explain what corner weighting is or actually does? Does it really benefit a dd?

Sean

From my understanding you are shifting the weight around in the car to give more front to rear and/or side to side balance. You generally do this with coil overs (raising one side) to adjust for your weight when sitting in the car for example. Some race car drivers take away weight from one side and add weight to the other to give the car more balance. Ever wonder why BMW puts their battery in the rear of the car? But we drive 60/40 cars, so I would not worry about it unless you race competitively in autocross or on the track. However taking weight out of the car always helps. Especially the rotating weight of the wheels.

 

[M-Sport fan]

It is all but impossible to do without having threaded coil over dampers/rear 'weight jacker' threaded spring height adjusters installed on our rides.

 

[Freefallin16]

It is all but impossible to do without having threaded coil over dampers/rear 'weight jacker' threaded spring height adjusters installed on our rides.

Yeah…I think corner weighting is above my pay grade lol 😂

 

[ronmcdon]

not bashing rear camber plates, but -2 front, stock-ish -0.8 to -1 worked well for me when I first started doing street and track driving.
I think this will make sense tire wear wise if you do very little track and autoX.
My guess is it makes for optimal street wear, give the car a more playful character, but compromise is it wore out my tires on the outside tread a lot more during track events.
To get -2 front, you may have to get camber bolts.
I think this makes sense for maybe 90% of enthusiasts who either never go to the track or maybe 1-3x/year.

Went to -3 front and -1 rear and enjoy driving the car more on the street and track. Seems to rotate a little easier and grip more up front.
Last year did maybe 10-12 track days and 1 autoX so this makes sense for me and b/c most of my tire wear from the track, it also improved overall tire wear.
Now my tire wear a lot more even, even though the last 3 HPDE events I did, had to drive out 350-400mi each way.
To get -3 front, not sure if camber bolts alone would suffice, but the camber plates on my Meister GT1's coilovers allow for that.

Oh yeah love the Meister GT1's too. Got custom Swift, taller springs, can choose spring rates. Have OEM ride height for now.
Car is very comfortable when I want it to be with 8k/6k rates and convenient to adjust the shocks. Can take my 71yr old mom and she won't complain.
When I drove her around in my 10k/10k rates ohlins in my evo x, she wanted to slap me after dropping her off.
So the Meister GT1s wins the grandma test too and may appease older folk with body pains like myself. Maybe it's confirmation bias but I think the ride quality is better than oem.