Fortune Auto 500s arrived today!

[ronmcdon]

Its not about supply issues. That I can totally understand especially if theres transparency and more about pressuring one to stay with stock spring rates. Really dont want to argue back and forth with a vendor about staying with stock spring rates.

If it was about taking longer to get parts and being upfront about that then I have no issues with it at all. IE Ron saying its up in the air when he’s going to get the M2 flares and its up the vendor.

 

[Dpro]

Its not about supply issues. That I can totally understand especially if theres transparency and more about pressuring one to stay with stock spring rates. Really dont want to argue back and forth with a vendor about staying with stock spring rates.

If it was about taking longer to get parts and being upfront about that then I have no issues with it at all. IE Ron saying its up in the air when he’s going to get the M2 flares and its up the vendor.

Well I don’t know the whole story of your exchange. I was just offering up what I have heard from others. By what you say you have encountered a different situation. I just know of guys on here that all dealt with Jerrick pre pandemic and bought both GT1’s and zeta CRD’s and did not have any issues.
I was in a sense playing devils advocate and by no means meant you might not be having more of problem than initially what seemed.
I hope you get sorted.

As far as Spring rates go Jerrick and MeisterR have done quite a bit of testing their springs and figuring out optimal rate choices perhaps that is why you had a disagreement over your choice of the rates for the Swifts is all I could think of.

 

[ronmcdon]

I have probably around 30 emails back and forth with Jerrick along with at least 2 phone conversations since 11/30. this is around ordering a set of Gt1 coilovers with custom rates which Jerrick agreed to initially.

If Jerrick was adamant about selling the Gt1 coilovers exclusively with the default 5k f/3k rear rates (stock is 3k/2.5) I would have said no problem, thank you for your time and I will check out other alternatives. what I don't appreciate is agreeing on offering higher rate springs initially, and then later on going back and forth around it either not being a good idea or somehow it not being available through Swift. The rates I'm requesting are 8k front/ 6k rear. Afaik, others are running these rates with the same coilover.

the key here is consistent and upfront communication. I've dealt with a good amount of aftermarket vendors throughout the years and this sadly isn't what I'd consider satisfactory. I don't know what others are experiencing but can only share my own. If it's this challenging to get in a simple request for coil overs with custom rates, it worries me to imagine what customer service would look like when something goes wrong.

 

[Dpro]

I can see that.

 

[haste]

For you M-Sport fan

Highest adjustment. I might be able to go 1/4" higher in the rear. I've driven approximately 80 miles with no issues other than slight loss of traction on the front... 😆

Sway bar angle is terrible and barely clears the control arms but would be correctable with adjustable end links.

Ride quality at 12 clicks on front and back which is halfway between soft/hard is very acceptable. No huge potholes around here but some big bumps and they have handled it just fine.

I imagine they could produce rear spring perches to match the front ride height.

Sorry if my measurements aren't perfect but should give you a good idea.

215/40 Dunlop direzza zIIs.

Front:

 

[M-Sport fan]

THANK YOU haste!

That is more than high enough, and if I ever did need the back to be higher, there are taller springs available, or weight jackers/adjustable perches which could go higher.

My only real hesitation/reticence now is whether or not they can handle the BIG hits I would be putting them through on gravel rally stage roads without blowing out, as well as the very few other factory ride height options possibly would.

 

[haste]

Lowered everything today. I think I'm approx 1/4" lower than stock right now.

I lowered the front 2 1/2" and the rear 1 1/4".

Not much more lowering room on these coilovers. I can go about 1/2" more in the front and only 1/4" in the rear. I'm perfectly fine with that though as I don't want much lower from stock anyway.

 

[FiST Mag]

I’m installing a set of 500’s and a little confused on how the spring perch sits. The sticker says above the spring but the instructions show below. It looks like it’s meant to install below, but the stickers says a above. Does anyone know how the spring perch should be installed? Right now I have it belo the spring.

 

[haste]

I would install it above. It is flattest surface and stays that way at all times. Installing it below will most definitely damage the perch. My buddy with ST coilovers, has destroyed his perches because his installer put them on the bottom.

 

[1eecom]

Just installed my 500s. Question for those that have them. Rear setup. I had frame on jack stands with rear end hanging down. The only way to get the spring to not be super loose was to have the shock screwed up to the shortest position. They was some play still with that. Does that sound like what y’all had to do?

 

[Lays]

Just installed my 500s. Question for those that have them. Rear setup. I had frame on jack stands with rear end hanging down. The only way to get the spring to not be super loose was to have the shock screwed up to the shortest position. They was some play still with that. Does that sound like what y’all had to do?

You have to preload the rear springs with the jack, while the frame is on the jackstands. 8-10mm is the rear preload spec I believe.

 

[1eecom]

You have to preload the rear springs with the jack, while the frame is on the jackstands. 8-10mm is the rear preload spec I believe.

I’m following you but I don’t think I quite get it. With the shocks as short as possible, my springs were a little loose. So preloading the springs means I will need to bolt my shocks on before doing that anyway, and I’m in the same position as my first question. The shocks can’t get any shorter, so preloading springs doesn’t make sense to me.
what am I missing?
Thanks for helping this confused guy.

 

[Lays]

I’m following you but I don’t think I quite get it. With the shocks as short as possible, my springs were a little loose. So preloading the springs means I will need to bolt my shocks on before doing that anyway, and I’m in the same position as my first question. The shocks can’t get any shorter, so preloading springs doesn’t make sense to me.
what am I missing?
Thanks for helping this confused guy.

Put the springs in with the adjusters, put them under the bare minimum tension with your jackstand on the rear beam. Then adjust the struts so that you have to raise the rear beam 8-10mm to get the bolt to go through (thus compressing the springs 8-10mm)


Do you have pictures?

 

[1eecom]

Put the springs in with the adjusters, put them under the bare minimum tension with your jackstand on the rear beam. Then adjust the struts so that you have to raise the rear beam 8-10mm to get the bolt to go through (thus compressing the springs 8-10mm)


Do you have pictures?

 

[haste]

 

[1eecom]

I watched that for sure before starting.
My question is when y’all installed them did the rear spring really not move at all? I have my rear shock at the absolute shortest it will go and I still had play in the spring before putting tires on the ground.

 

[Lays]

I watched that for sure before starting.
My question is when y’all installed them did the rear spring really not move at all? I have my rear shock at the absolute shortest it will go and I still had play in the spring before putting tires on the ground.

Is it possible they sent you the wrong parts? With the spring and adjuster, I wouldn't think you'd not be able to preload the spring

 

[1eecom]

Is it possible they sent you the wrong parts? With the spring and adjuster, I wouldn't think you'd not be able to preload the spring

Here is what I got from Fortune auto.

Your suspension is little different since it has the torsion twist beam style rear so how we normally preload the rear shock won’t be accurate. First I would set the car down and set your ride height afterwards set the rear shock length necessary for when the car is on the ground then add another 1/8th inch of preload to that length.