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How often do you change your oil?

jmrtsus

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#43
I've been changing mine every 5k or 6 months, whichever comes first. I have switched between Ford Motorcraft to Mobil1 and back - can't really tell any difference between the two.
The difference is the Motorcraft (Kendall GT 1) has titanium. One of the Mobil 1 oils also has it now along with other brands. Your car came with Kendall GT 1 titanium as specified by Ford. All Ford performance cars do, the Ford GT is sponsored by Castrol w/titanium. It it is that important to Ford it should br to you. Now that the patent from Kendall has run out others are jumping all over it. So stick with a titanium additive oil, all of them are excellent oils. As I am anal about maintenance I do 4k miles. And rotate my tires each oil change. My local Goodyear charges $30 if I supply the oil and filter and includes tire rotation and ACTUALLY checking everything else. Use a Motorcraft FL400S filter for a little more filter area.
 

koozy

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#44
The difference is the Motorcraft (Kendall GT 1) has titanium. One of the Mobil 1 oils also has it now along with other brands. Your car came with Kendall GT 1 titanium as specified by Ford. All Ford performance cars do, the Ford GT is sponsored by Castrol w/titanium. It it is that important to Ford it should br to you. Now that the patent from Kendall has run out others are jumping all over it. So stick with a titanium additive oil, all of them are excellent oils. As I am anal about maintenance I do 4k miles. And rotate my tires each oil change. My local Goodyear charges $30 if I supply the oil and filter and includes tire rotation and ACTUALLY checking everything else. Use a Motorcraft FL400S filter for a little more filter area.
Where are you getting this info that Kendall GT1 is factory fill for MY2014+? I have facts that prove otherwise.
 

jmrtsus

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#45
Where are you getting this info that Kendall is factory fill for MY2014+?
From several sources...but all you need to do is look at the Kendall GT 1 specs and look at the Motorcraft specs, verbatim and also the marketing info from both. First read about on Bob the Oil Guy site. You can also see on a document from Ford posted here on the forum showing fluid specs with Phillips(Kendall) as the supplier of the oil. Not a big secret.
 

koozy

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#46
From several sources...but all you need to do is look at the Kendall GT 1 specs and look at the Motorcraft specs, verbatim and also the marketing info from both. First read about on Bob the Oil Guy site. You can also see on a document from Ford posted here on the forum showing fluid specs with Phillips(Kendall) as the supplier of the oil. Not a big secret.
Numerous Blackstone reports of the factory fill here on this forum show otherwise. Zero Titanium content.

https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/used-oil-analysis-reports.4982/

https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/blackstone-oil-reports-repository.20735/#post-354887
 
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Ford ST

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#47
Kendall GT1 is full synthetic. The Motorcraft oil that's typically sold in parts stores is a synthetic blend.
Personally I believe using any oil that's sn plus is fine. SN plus meets the new specifications for turbocharged vehicles to prevent low speed pre ignition.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
 

jmrtsus

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#48
From several sources...but all you need to do is look at the Kendall GT 1 specs and look at the Motorcraft specs, verbatim and also the marketing info from both. First read about on Bob the Oil Guy site. You can also see on a document from Ford posted here on the forum showing fluid specs with Phillips(Kendall) as the supplier of the oil. Not a big secret.
Kendall GT1 is full synthetic. The Motorcraft oil that's typically sold in parts stores is a synthetic blend.
Personally I believe using any oil that's sn plus is fine. SN plus meets the new specifications for turbocharged vehicles to prevent low speed pre ignition.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk
Ford only sells the full syn in drums which is why I buy the Kendal. Parts stores (
Don't know but a guess would be a break-in fill, I know it was green in color. I made an assumption, apparently wrong, since Ford shows the spec'ed oil is provided by Phillips it was what came with it from the factory. I did find the green oil to be strange but I changed it at 1500 miles.Was told the bright green was for leak detection. Could be for break-in that Ford did not want the friction reducing properties of titanium. I like dino oil for break in. Good question to pose to Ford I think. All I know is what is in the spec's and jugs!
 
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#49
I believe the owners manual says you should change your oil and transmission fluid after every track day to maintain warranty. How aggressive you drive will determine how often you should change your oil. If you go for an aggressive canyon run you might want to change your oil afterwards. I would suggest lab testing your oil and stepping your way up the service miles if you want to get the most out of your oil. Or use the old look, sniff, listen test method. Your car speaks to you, just listen to it [wrenchin]

I find it interesting that a titanium additive helps with oil performance. It has been my experience with titanium and aluminum when combined causes a chemical reaction. I can understand that the a titanium additive will work well with the steel engine components, but not the aluminum ones.
 

danbfree

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#52
OK, in for my opinion.... Change every 5-6k with an SN+ rated full synthetic, 5w-20 or if it gets above 90 a lot where you live then 5w-30 for the summer. If you have an upgraded turbo you always run 5w-30. Blackstone tests show they recommend every 8-8.5k from decent+ full synthetics, so going up to 6k is more than safe. I just note 5k since my last one and then makes plan to do it soon. I personally use Quaker State Ultimate Durability, at $20 with the reviews and ratings it has gotten make this the best oil for the money in the world. Also, use a huge oil filter, Wix 51516/NAPA Gold 1516 are big and act like a 2nd oil cooler with their length. It takes a good quarter of quart more oil, so also spreads the heat, helps your oil last longer. Also, catch cans do catch stuff, but that is because you are messing with the stock PCV pressure that works well with the dual baffles already included. So, who knows how much of that would have been caught at stock PCV pressures, the very light liquid that gets through stock PCV is mainly fuel and steam which probably better to just burn off anyway. Good tech article HERE on that, specifically about Mazda and Ecoboost engines.
 
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jmrtsus

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#54
OK, in for my opinion.... Change every 5-6k with an SN+ rated full synthetic, 5w-20 or if it gets above 90 a lot where you live then 5w-30 for the summer. If you have an upgraded turbo you always run 5w-30. Blackstone tests show they recommend every 8-8.5k from decent+ full synthetics, so going up to 6k is more than safe. I just note 5k since my last one and then makes plan to do it soon. I personally use Quaker State Ultimate Durability, at $20 with the reviews and ratings it has gotten make this the best oil for the money in the world. Also, use a huge oil filter, Wix 51516/NAPA Gold 1516 are big and act like a 2nd oil cooler with their length. It takes a good quarter of quart more oil, so also spreads the heat, helps your oil last longer. Also, catch cans do catch stuff, but that is because you are messing with the stock PCV pressure that works well with the dual baffles already included. So, who knows how much of that would have been caught at stock PCV pressures, the very light liquid that gets through stock PCV is mainly fuel and steam which probably better to just burn off anyway. Good tech article HERE on that, specifically about Mazda and Ecoboost engines.
The "article" is entertaining, but they make some stupid statements, like most of the fluids caught by an OCC is "condensation", really? BS! My OCC has never had a drop of water moisture in it in over three years. Mine catches OIL that would have passed the valves. Have no clue how they have that come up with that opinion unless they are ignoring the most common use of the word as referring to water and telling it is condensation of oil vapor which is the purpose of an OCC. So with that I must take what they say with a grain of salt as I have not seen a drop of moisture in my cars OCC. But plenty of oil which is the job of the OCC. The purpose of the misleading statements is to promote their product. I have zero desire to spend thousands on it. Will cost me much less to just pull and clean the head if that day ever comes, and I have doubts it will before I croak. Way too many EcoBoost engines with serious miles on them to scare me into their product. I have no need of the cost or performance increases with the required add ons to their product. Much less giving up my warranty. People need to take this "article" for what it is....marketing hype.
 

jmrtsus

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#55
Castrol is the official lubricant fluid partner with Ford, not Kendall or other.


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Castrol is a sponsor of the GT racing. Ford doc shown on here recently confirmed Phillips is the oil supplier, so does multiple sites including Bob the Oil Guy. I have read Castrol makes the Motorcraft oil used in Australia. Could be EU also.
 

danbfree

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#57
The "article" is entertaining, but they make some stupid statements, like most of the fluids caught by an OCC is "condensation", really? BS! My OCC has never had a drop of water moisture in it in over three years. Mine catches OIL that would have passed the valves. Have no clue how they have that come up with that opinion unless they are ignoring the most common use of the word as referring to water and telling it is condensation of oil vapor which is the purpose of an OCC. So with that I must take what they say with a grain of salt as I have not seen a drop of moisture in my cars OCC. But plenty of oil which is the job of the OCC. The purpose of the misleading statements is to promote their product. I have zero desire to spend thousands on it. Will cost me much less to just pull and clean the head if that day ever comes, and I have doubts it will before I croak. Way too many EcoBoost engines with serious miles on them to scare me into their product. I have no need of the cost or performance increases with the required add ons to their product. Much less giving up my warranty. People need to take this "article" for what it is....marketing hype.
Uhm, I missed the part where they are trying to sell anything, they are a tuner who sells some hardware bits too... If you are referring to using WMI or aux fuel, well that is just a FACT that is the only way to get actual fuel flow over the back side of your valves. Why try to prevent oil from going in, when the PCV is already well designed to catch most of it, when you can actively actually wash the back side of your valves? I'm not going to debate this with you, you are entitled to your opinion as far as what their entire tech paper's purpose is, but you can't argue with the facts that an active washing solution in WMI and aux fuel is far better in actually keeping your valves clean and you get more power too. So if you feel messing with the PCV system and claiming that under lower pressures that everything it catches would have passed through anyway, that's fine, we have no proof either way... but this does make a good technical argument, they aren't making up the part about carbon buildup, it still happens! I say it's disingenuous to assume it's "marketing hype" just because you don't agree on the solution to keeping your valves clean when they have seen the results over and over...

TL;DR - Just because you personally don't agree with an engineer that has seen this over and over doesn't just make this marketing hype, it's one engineers opinion from the design and what they have seen.
 

jmrtsus

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#58
Uhm, I missed the part where they are trying to sell anything, they are a tuner who sells some hardware bits too... If you are referring to using WMI or aux fuel, well that is just a FACT that is the only way to get actual fuel flow over the back side of your valves. Why try to prevent oil from going in, when the PCV is already well designed to catch most of it, when you can actively actually wash the back side of your valves? I'm not going to debate this with you, you are entitled to your opinion as far as what their entire tech paper's purpose is, but you can't argue with the facts that an active washing solution in WMI and aux fuel is far better in actually keeping your valves clean and you get more power too. So if you feel messing with the PCV system and claiming that under lower pressures that everything it catches would have passed through anyway, that's fine, we have no proof either way... but this does make a good technical argument, they aren't making up the part about carbon buildup, it still happens! I say it's disingenuous to assume it's "marketing hype" just because you don't agree on the solution to keeping your valves clean when they have seen the results over and over...

TL;DR - Just because you personally don't agree with an engineer that has seen this over and over doesn't just make this marketing hype, it's one engineers opinion from the design and what they have seen.
You miss the point......they are selling aux fuel systems so what do you think they are going to say? That is all they sell for our car basically. Of course aux fuel is a great choice......if you want to trash your warranty and spend big bucks. For a stock or modded car with warranty why would I do that? If you have already trashed your warranty with mods go for it. But to make stupid claims is typical marketing. You mistake marketing for actual data. When you say it is an opinion you accept that it has not been proven by independent testing. Does not take an "engineer" to see water in oil. If this "article" had any credence it would be published as an article in real car journals, not just on the sellers website. Has some good info along with the BS.
Not arguing with you, I don't think your wrote it. Stating facts. I do call BS when it is obviously BS, especially when the "engineer" who has this "opinion" works for the company that sells the aux fuel "solution". Keep on keeping on!
 

babyivan

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#59
Every 3k miles. Penz platinum 5w30, 24/7 365 :geek:

And no OCC. I think the Ford system does a fine job, no need to mess with it. Mind you, I am 100% stock (aside from the Cob RMM), and change my oil at an interval lower than most. Perhaps if I was modifying, I would re-consider. But the aux fuel sounds like the way to go. Is that like a meth injection set up?
 


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