HPDE/Time Attack build

[Jabbit]

Car still is overheating, hit 231 degrees then cooled down immediately once I let off. Interesting because I can't get it hot enough on the street to test. I had replaced the factory air/oil separator and did a lower temp thermostat while I was in there. Maybe thermostat was bad or my vacuum fill was bad. Either way going to put in a new thermostat and vacuum fill again. Will probably do 100% distilled water as my car never sees freezing temps and it's cheaper to do all this diagnostic work. Anyone else have any thoughts?

Below is a video of my track day at the NHMS Nascar oval - blue Mustang GT gave me a late/weak point once then never again. Was a fun day.

View: https://youtu.be/kTFS1elgQ60

 

[M-Sport fan]

You have a heated garage for it over the winter? (Or would you just drain the system completely if left outside?)

I would add a cavitation prevention type additive as well to that 100% distilled water coolant.

RT660s?

E30 (or more) for fuel?

 

[Jabbit]

You have a heated garage for it over the winter? (Or would you just drain the system completely if left outside?)

I would add a cavitation prevention type additive as well to that 100% distilled water coolant.

RT660s?

E30 (or more) for fuel?

Yes, heated garage for the car during the winter. Does not go outside. Currently on worn out RE-71R but will be switching to RT660s soon. It's on E30 right now.

 

[Woods247]

You were paying $500 for alignments?!

I thought that was really high too. My local race shop usually charges me $75-$125 max.

 

[WannabeST]

I thought that was really high too. My local race shop usually charges me $75-$125 max.

I usually get Firestone lifetime warranty alignments. So incase I need an emergency alignment I can do that. I get my moneys worth. But I pay $120 at my local shop that will do alignments to any spec your car is capable of, only problem is that they are usually booked far out in advance.

 

[dhminer]

I usually get Firestone lifetime warranty alignments. So incase I need an emergency alignment I can do that. I get my moneys worth. But I pay $120 at my local shop that will do alignments to any spec your car is capable of, only problem is that they are usually booked far out in advance.

Fun fact you can fuck with Firestone and get them to align it pretty much however you want. Just walk around and ask the tech. Only been told “no” once, and I politely explained that I’d be back tomorrow and the next day until it was how I wanted. Unlimited means unlimited lol

 

[Jabbit]

Fun fact you can fuck with Firestone and get them to align it pretty much however you want. Just walk around and ask the tech. Only been told “no” once, and I politely explained that I’d be back tomorrow and the next day until it was how I wanted. Unlimited means unlimited lol

I tried to get the local Firestone to align my Fiesta, they looked at it and said no. Going to raise it up to mount fatter tires so maybe they will align it then.

 

[WannabeST]

I tried to get the local Firestone to align my Fiesta, they looked at it and said no. Going to raise it up to mount fatter tires so maybe they will align it then.

At my local one they just ask me to take the front bumper off for my mustang and previous other modified cars. They just didn't want to risk damaging it, which I can respect.

 

[WannabeST]

Fun fact you can fuck with Firestone and get them to align it pretty much however you want. Just walk around and ask the tech. Only been told “no” once, and I politely explained that I’d be back tomorrow and the next day until it was how I wanted. Unlimited means unlimited lol

I usually just ask them to zero out the toe so I don't kill my tires. I don't like to abuse or make their lives any harder. I have had a few techs offer to do custom specs but for an additional charge.

 

[dhminer]

I usually just ask them to zero out the toe so I don't kill my tires. I don't like to abuse or make their lives any harder. I have had a few techs offer to do custom specs but for an additional charge.

Oh I definitely don’t try to make their lives hard unless they make mine hard haha. I don’t ask for anything ridiculous and always slide the tech a $20 for doing it how I ask.

 

[Fusion Works]

Once the rear is done, our cars are pretty simple. Its mostly toe, after you install your camber bolts and verify the rear thrust angle. There is little to no adjustment for the actually rear suspension,beyond thrust. So once you add the shims on the rear and set the thrust angle, (and install a rear beam lock kit) you are pretty much set.

If your alignment guys aren't doing the alignment with driver weight in the car, you are wasting time. Most shops won't do that. I think BMW, Porsche, and Mercedes are the only companies that specify a weighted alignment setup for all models.

I saw 222-225 last weekend at the hottest part of the weekend 97+ at Barber. I could back off a half lap and it was back down to 210ish, and the moment I came off the track onto pit lane my temps drop 20deg. By the time I am back to my paddock spot its 190deg.

Re-bleed your system with the heater valve open and circulating. Don't run straight water, run something like 20% water/coolant. Also put some dishwashing soap in the coolant tank when you are done. This is a surfactant and will help break the surface tension on the water. The coolant can better pack up against the backsides of the combustion chambers, this will help pull more heat out of the chambers and will help keep steam pockets from forming that will inhibit cooling as well.

A cooler T-stat won't help make a car run cooler if there isn't excess capacity in the system. It will only delay how long it takes to heat up to maximum temp.

Would have figured you got all the air out of the system simply by street driving the car for a month before this event.

 

[Jabbit]

Would have figured you got all the air out of the system simply by street driving the car for a month before this event.

I don't street drive the car at all, only to/from events. I'm going to run roughly 25% coolant/ 75% water based on a large jug that I already have prepared, also with some water wetter. Still going to swap the thermostat to make myself feel better. Will do this fill with the hvac system on full heat. Also the way the vacuum filler works is that the first time you crack the valve to suck coolant in, whatever air is in the tube seems to get forced in as well. Going to figure out a way to prime the filler tube just in case that's an issue. Thanks for the feedback!

 

[shreddie van halen]

I thought that was really high too. My local race shop usually charges me $75-$125 max.

Yes I only paid that much once. But I had them raise the care a half inch and then re corner balance it and align it. They do all of that with weight in the drivers seat as well for ballast. I think I was paying a "we don't want to do small jobs" tax to be honest. No other shops will align it since its too low which shouldn't matter provided they have some 2x4's. They have all been less them helpful.

 

[shreddie van halen]

I don't street drive the car at all, only to/from events. I'm going to run roughly 25% coolant/ 75% water based on a large jug that I already have prepared, also with some water wetter. Still going to swap the thermostat to make myself feel better. Will do this fill with the hvac system on full heat. Also the way the vacuum filler works is that the first time you crack the valve to suck coolant in, whatever air is in the tube seems to get forced in as well. Going to figure out a way to prime the filler tube just in case that's an issue. Thanks for the feedback!

I had this issue when I installed my radiator also. I am sure you tried this but initially I forget to burp the valve on top of the radiator after I vacuum filled it. There was still a ton of air up there and I did that and now I am good. I just assumed with the vacuum fill method that wasn't required.

 

[Jabbit]

I had this issue when I installed my radiator also. I am sure you tried this but initially I forget to burp the valve on top of the radiator after I vacuum filled it. There was still a ton of air up there and I did that and now I am good. I just assumed with the vacuum fill method that wasn't required.

I can try that but I don't think the valve works/opens on a Mountune radiator. Or does it? I need to take a closer look I suppose.

 

[dhminer]

I can try that but I don't think the valve works/opens on a Mountune radiator. Or does it? I need to take a closer look I suppose.

Jab! Haha man I never suggested this because I thought “no way he didn’t burp the valve on top of radiator.” You definitely can and need to on the Mountune radiator.

 

[shreddie van halen]

I can try that but I don't think the valve works/opens on a Mountune radiator. Or does it? I need to take a closer look I suppose.

Its not a valve is just the same bleed port that OEM has and you swap it over. I have the mountune one as well. Vacuum fill the coolant and then once its full run the car and as its getting up to temp unscrew the cap and it will burp out a ton of air. Just wear some gloves because that coolant is hot. I just had a waterbottle ready to fill it up.

 

[shreddie van halen]

Once the rear is done, our cars are pretty simple. Its mostly toe, after you install your camber bolts and verify the rear thrust angle. There is little to no adjustment for the actually rear suspension,beyond thrust. So once you add the shims on the rear and set the thrust angle, (and install a rear beam lock kit) you are pretty much set.

If your alignment guys aren't doing the alignment with driver weight in the car, you are wasting time. Most shops won't do that. I think BMW, Porsche, and Mercedes are the only companies that specify a weighted alignment setup for all models.

I saw 222-225 last weekend at the hottest part of the weekend 97+ at Barber. I could back off a half lap and it was back down to 210ish, and the moment I came off the track onto pit lane my temps drop 20deg. By the time I am back to my paddock spot its 190deg.

Re-bleed your system with the heater valve open and circulating. Don't run straight water, run something like 20% water/coolant. Also put some dishwashing soap in the coolant tank when you are done. This is a surfactant and will help break the surface tension on the water. The coolant can better pack up against the backsides of the combustion chambers, this will help pull more heat out of the chambers and will help keep steam pockets from forming that will inhibit cooling as well.

A cooler T-stat won't help make a car run cooler if there isn't excess capacity in the system. It will only delay how long it takes to heat up to maximum temp.

Would have figured you got all the air out of the system simply by street driving the car for a month before this event.

I am trying to read up on thrust angle so I can make sure my front is good. For the rear when you say add shims are you just talking about for the 4 hub bolts? I have camber plates in that spot now and I know some people shim the back....I'm just not sure if its there or somehwere else on the beam with slop in the bolts(mounting points?). And when you talk about a rear beam lock kit are you refering to a bolt centering kit that removes slop in those locations?

 

[FiestaSTdude]

Its not a valve is just the same bleed port that OEM has and you swap it over. I have the mountune one as well.

I actually bought a new valve when I did my radiator swap in case I broke the original one. They’re a few bucks from tasca. And yes @Jabbit the valve in the mountune radiator works just like the oem radiator.

 

[Erick_V]

I actually bought a new valve when I did my radiator swap in case I broke the original one. They’re a few bucks from tasca.

C1BZ-8C362-A for those that may need it. I didn’t break mine initially but I somehow broke it when I did the second bleed lol