HS Setup

[psiaddict1]

And I put them to very good use this weekend!

First AX on the FiST. Conditions were high 30s at the start with damp pavement. First run started off with a slalom, and coming out on the 3rd cone put the car sideways! Tail was SO LOOSE. Was surprised, but controlled it and finished with an ok time. 2nd run drove within the limits of the traction available and improved. 3rd run launched and just as I did realized that the traction control was on! So first corners were 1 handed trying to shut off ESC. After that was so thrown off that the run was a bit wild, and improved the time, but wasn't great. Finished 3rd/16 in class. In extra runs improved to the point that I would have won my class. Out of 97 entries was 12th overall for all runs with PAX. With the warmer/dryer conditions I think I could have been top 10 fairly easy.

Was rather pleased with the little FiST for the first time out, just going to be a steep learning curve coming from a Vette. I really don't see the need for adding a RSB, car rotates way to much already, but maybe that was just the moist/cold conditions.

I will start my own thread and put videos in it.

Nice, sounds like good fun...

What was your Front to Rear tire pressure differential? I usually try to keep them a few PSI apart, but lowering or raising the rears toward the optimal to help tune the rotation depending on the course.

I am really eager to get the car out on course but they just pushed my first event back a few weeks.

I keep telling myself it gives me more time to get the parts installed and the alignment set-up… but I would rather be driving!

 

[m3kerry]

Will the 2017’s work on a 2018?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[AZSP33D]

Will the 2017’s work on a 2018?

Yes it’s all the same from Koni.

 

[Rexracer]

Nice, sounds like good fun...

What was your Front to Rear tire pressure differential?

I started 38 front 37 rear, but after the first run I dropped to 35 front 30 rear. That helped, and knowing it was going to slide helped, and tire warming up helped. Trying to get aclimated to the car, I didnt want to make to many setup changes.

 

[m3kerry]

I bought a set of single adjustable Koni s arriving today. What is everyone running for settings on the Koni S/A's?

Front or rear bar? I bought both.

 

[Rexracer]

I bought a set of single adjustable Koni s arriving today. What is everyone running for settings on the Koni S/A's?

Front or rear bar? I bought both.

First off... after the nice adjuster knob on my QA1's I was stunned how crappy the adjuster is on these. To adjust the rears you have to completely un-install the shock, adjust, re-install. Fronts... with some weird angle plyers you can get in there...after removing the brake fluid resivor...

With that said, I am starting with what National winner ran. Just off full stiff rear, and just off full soft front. I did some tweaking to balance the rebound so left/right they were equal. Same spot on the adjustment wont give the same exact rebound rate.

 

[AZSP33D]

I bought a set of single adjustable Koni s arriving today. What is everyone running for settings on the Koni S/A's?

Front or rear bar? I bought both.

You really need to do some testing, is probably the best recommendation.

Some of these cars vary year to year with two different size front swaybar or ARB and two different designs rear beam, and several different versions of the springs, sometimes without rhyme or reason for model year. The 2018 HS car had the larger front sway bar with the same old rear beam and springs... this car loved the rear swaybar, that was the biggest improvement for me and I've tested NO-Bar/22-Solid/NO-Bar Koni/22-Solid Koni/22 Hollow Koni/22-Solid Koni on that car, than back to stock with no bar, and it was very conclusive that the biggest heaviest rear sway bar won. It increased front grip also. The rear bar for me was much more of an improvement than the Koni, I would estimate 0.5 to 1.0 whereas the Koni it would not be

However... and I always looked sideways at people who recommended differently until I bought the 2014 car with stock suspension and no rear sway bar, I'm not convinced that I should recomment blindly installing a RSB. Didn't autocross it but I noticed some things that would change my opinion, so I would recommend testing. Some people say it depends on driving style, course design, etc. I don't know, but the 2014 car allowed for me to form different opinion than just looking at the 2018 car. About 16+ years ago, I was autocrossing quite a but and went from FS to ESP to SM to CP in a 2000 Mustang GT. I loved the setup on that car, and so did for example the instructors at the EVO school back then (probably same people today)... but when a fellow experienced Mustang driver swapped cars with me, he spun it three times in the fun runs, said it was un-drivable. His own car had Hoosiers and 500HP, softer suspension and lighter car, but was usually slower and he was looking for feedback. Point is, I enjoy a looser car that requires smooth driving more than some others out there.

For the Koni, the rear was less high speed compression than sock which seemed to help... for the rebound (the adjustable part) I ended up with full stiff minus a half turn as I don't like to set suspension on the limit. Some have recommended similar by the way, I've researched and read about two turns out one turn out and full stiff as recommended, and being one who prefers a compliant suspension I tried two turns out first, and ended up after many tries with 1/2 turn out.

For the front, I ended up with about 6 turns out from full stiff (or six turns in as the adjustment is backwards). This was on the 2018 car with the larger OEM ARB and usually a rear ARB.

Also I preferred a full tank of gas BTW, so I'm pretty sure I'm the only one in that realm, perhaps take my information with a grain of salt .

 

[m3kerry]

You really need to do some testing, is probably the best recommendation.

Some of these cars vary year to year with two different size front swaybar or ARB and two different designs rear beam, and several different versions of the springs, sometimes without rhyme or reason for model year. The 2018 HS car had the larger front sway bar with the same old rear beam and springs... this car loved the rear swaybar, that was the biggest improvement for me and I've tested NO-Bar/22-Solid/NO-Bar Koni/22-Solid Koni/22 Hollow Koni/22-Solid Koni on that car, than back to stock with no bar, and it was very conclusive that the biggest heaviest rear sway bar won. It increased front grip also. The rear bar for me was much more of an improvement than the Koni, I would estimate 0.5 to 1.0 whereas the Koni it would not be

However... and I always looked sideways at people who recommended differently until I bought the 2014 car with stock suspension and no rear sway bar, I'm not convinced that I should recomment blindly installing a RSB. Didn't autocross it but I noticed some things that would change my opinion, so I would recommend testing. Some people say it depends on driving style, course design, etc. I don't know, but the 2014 car allowed for me to form different opinion than just looking at the 2018 car. About 16+ years ago, I was autocrossing quite a but and went from FS to ESP to SM to CP in a 2000 Mustang GT. I loved the setup on that car, and so did for example the instructors at the EVO school back then (probably same people today)... but when a fellow experienced Mustang driver swapped cars with me, he spun it three times in the fun runs, said it was un-drivable. His own car had Hoosiers and 500HP, softer suspension and lighter car, but was usually slower and he was looking for feedback. Point is, I enjoy a looser car that requires smooth driving more than some others out there.

For the Koni, the rear was less high speed compression than sock which seemed to help... for the rebound (the adjustable part) I ended up with full stiff minus a half turn as I don't like to set suspension on the limit. Some have recommended similar by the way, I've researched and read about two turns out one turn out and full stiff as recommended, and being one who prefers a compliant suspension I tried two turns out first, and ended up after many tries with 1/2 turn out.

For the front, I ended up with about 6 turns out from full stiff (or six turns in as the adjustment is backwards). This was on the 2018 car with the larger OEM ARB and usually a rear ARB.

Also I preferred a full tank of gas BTW, so I'm pretty sure I'm the only one in that realm, perhaps take my information with a grain of salt .

LOL, will do. I just looking for some base settings to start with. I'm not going to put as much time in this car as the 1M that won B Street with Jeremy Foley driving but would like to get close enough without having to put so much time in testing.

 

[psiaddict1]

We just had the first event of the season here, it was PCA event so no PAX etc.. for comparison.

I ran my new set-up Eibach front bar with stock Koni’s, I did not do any adjustments except tire pressures, shocks are set mid point front and rear… I felt I had so much rust to knock off as a driver I did not want to convolute things.

I felt the car was more stable and less tail happy with the front bar, had no problems getting rotation if needed. Still getting used to driving this set-up so it will likely take a few more events to get the things dialed in, but I am happy with change so far.

By the way, I installed the bar in my garage in an afternoon, yes, you have remove the subframe bolts and let the frame sag down (onto a jack stand) and then finesse the bar into place, but it was not a bad job.

There was a good video on the work: (probably already posted here on the forum somewhere, but here it is anyway)
https://www.google.com/search?clien...bar+install#kpvalbx=_SJACX6anAYLw9APDjaq4Dw15