I have a major oil burning issue...help!!

[Rocketst]

It makes things easier if you can remove everything in front of it as there's not much room to spare. Make sure you mark all the connectors... They can be a bitch to put back together.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk

 

[ywgbandit]

You lift the engine out of the top of the car..

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk

So I can do this in my garage with an engine hoist? And if I get a long block it's a fairly simple matter to transfer over the accessories.

 

[Rocketst]

Yep. That's what I did. I have a write up as well if you wanna take a look.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk

 

[ywgbandit]

Yes please, any information is appreciated! It has been suggested that the long block is better than the short block and transferring the head because of the difficulty in timing the cams......is that why you went with the long block? What happened to you that you needed a long block?

 

[scooter123]

I would seriously consider spending the extra dollars for the Mountune MRX long block. Because your story is one that I have seen many times since joining this forum. Someone decides to put an increased capacity turbo on their stock engine and within 2 or 3 months they've blown a hole in one or more pistons. My simple conclusion is that the cast pistons in the stock engine assembly just cannot tolerate the increase in power/combustion pressure that goes hand in hand with a higher capacity turbo. If you want to go for bit HP on these engines there are two critical aspects for making a good foundation to build on. Element number one is the radiator because the factory radiator just isn't big enough. Heck, these cars will overheat in 90 degree temps on just a 2 mile pull up a 7% grade. Element two is the base engine block, you want FORGED pistons and preferably a Deck Plate to stabilize the cylinders. I'll also note that this is good to perhaps 400 hp, if you want to go for more power than that you need to be looking for a stronger crankshaft, H Beam rods, stronger half shafts, a beefed up transmission, stonger clutch and pressure plate, and dont forget the brakes.

Basically if you want to make a strong showing against a Hellcat you need to plan on spending at least 40K dollars and add about another 8-12 K if you want AWD.

 

[Ford ST]

Well someone on the site has a mountune engine and has had nothing but problems with it.
Hell they put a wrong bolt in one of the camshafts.





Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

 

[ywgbandit]

I asked on this forum if 300 whp was asking too much of this engine and the feedback I got was that 300 whp was well within the capability of the OEM block. That anything over 375 to 400 whp required internal engine work. Was that just bad information? I'm not looking to compete with a Hellcat, I live in the mountains of British Columbia Canada and there are awesome roads to drive here. I went with the bigger S280 turbo to help compensate for the thinner air at altitude, thinking it wouldn't have to work as hard and generate as much heat as a hybrid would to make that kind of hp. If these are unrealistic goals, please tell me.....that would certainly help make up my mind as to what to do. I'll just fix it and bail out.

 

[ywgbandit]

If I could buy a complete head from Ford I'd think about the Mountune Short block, but my local Ford dealer says I can't buy a short block or a built head from Ford. Only parts for the head or a long block. Apparently too many people have botched the valve timing installing the head on these things, so you can only get a long block. Ford Canada doesn't list a short block or a complete head anymore.

 

[scooter123]

Ford ST does have a point about Mountune's assembly quality. As I understand it the assembly is actually farmed out and some recent posts indicate that the shop doing the work is NOT perfect. I've seen posts about crankshaft main bearing failures that show signs of improperly torqued bearing caps. IMO anyone purchasing a Mountune engine should pull the oil pan and valve covers and re-torque all the rod and head bolts. Yeah, we really shouldn't have to do that but back when I was building my own engines I used to check all the torque values 3 times. When you consider the cost of an engine build it's very cheap insurance to insure that you didn't miss tightening just one rod cap bolt by double or triple checking.

Even with the assembly issues the Mountune engines are a good value. Fifteen to twenty years ago the cost for building a Small Block Chevy short block with all the "good stuff" ran about 3000 dollars for a fully blue printed and balanced engine with me doing all the assembly. Considering the complexity and precision that goes into a modern direct injection motor and the price Mountune charges is a very fair value. As for those claiming the stock block can handle 300 hp, you have seen the result first hand. If you engine could actually stand up to 300 hp your engine would not have blown. Remember all those timing corrections you read about are there to correct for "bad gas". The control systems on these engines are specifically designed to allow the engine to safely operate if low grade gas is in the tank. I would expect that aftermarket tuners have NOT defeated that particular aspect of the control programs, if they have I would advise everyone to NOT use that tuner.

 

[Rocketst]

Well someone on the site has a mountune engine and has had nothing but problems with it.
Hell they put a wrong bolt in one of the camshafts.





Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

That person would be yours truly lol

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk

 

[ywgbandit]

Do you still have the Mountune or did you get a Ford long block?

 

[Se7eN]

Looks like I blowed her up real good!
Compression test by Cyl, cold engine:
#1: 145 psi
#2: 140 psi
#3: 145 psi
#4: 65 psi

Can't imagine anything but a blown piston causing the low compression and the excess oil smoke, unless someone has an idea?

Looks like I'll have to save up for a short block.
Looks like I'm done for the summer!

bummer

 

[JDG]

I asked on this forum if 300 whp was asking too much of this engine and the feedback I got was that 300 whp was well within the capability of the OEM block. That anything over 375 to 400 whp required internal engine work. Was that just bad information? I'm not looking to compete with a Hellcat, I live in the mountains of British Columbia Canada and there are awesome roads to drive here. I went with the bigger S280 turbo to help compensate for the thinner air at altitude, thinking it wouldn't have to work as hard and generate as much heat as a hybrid would to make that kind of hp. If these are unrealistic goals, please tell me.....that would certainly help make up my mind as to what to do. I'll just fix it and bail out.

Here's the thing, I get it you need to fix your car, but we need some more information to fully explain the failure. An engine doesn't just blow up with bad gas. There are safety systems in place to pull timing and save the engine if low quality fuel is added. Do you have datalogs to share that you completed on the suspected poor fuel? How many miles did you drive on this fill-up before the engine blew? How much did you fill tank (25%, 50%, 95%)? Did the engine ever go into limp mode? Are there any stored engine codes?

What do your spark plugs look like? Have you pulled those yet? Is there evidence of detonation? What does the coolant and oil look like?

You need to be more systematic about explaining the failure IMO. Blaming it on bad quality fuel with no evidence (especially when the fuel was from a reputable company like Mobil) is asking for another failure when you put the new engine in.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Remember all those timing corrections you read about are there to correct for "bad gas". The control systems on these engines are specifically designed to allow the engine to safely operate if low grade gas is in the tank. I would expect that aftermarket tuners have NOT defeated that particular aspect of the control programs, if they have I would advise everyone to NOT use that tuner.

THIS is what I'd like to know for certain, and it WILL be asked of any tuner I use before they are given my coin for a tune, even one for the factory snail!, let alone a more stress/much more detonation prone/higher cylinder pressure, S280 and above setup.

 

[Se7eN]

THIS is what I'd like to know for certain, and it WILL be asked of any tuner I use before they are given my coin for a tune, even one for the factory snail!, let alone a more stress/much more detonation prone/higher cylinder pressure, S280 and above setup.

Here is the thing, any tune any programing will increase timing regardless. Knock will cause the ignition corrections which will still be active but you can't ever expect the car to fully adjust to anything if you are custom tuning the car. Just doesn't exist. A tune that's meant for 93 and if you put 87oct will adjust. Try doing that on a Cobb OTS map catastrophic failure waiting to happen.

A tuner can take precautions as there are limits that you can leave on or adjust so that if it sees a high knock it will go to Limp mode or if there is a huge correction. But then any tuner that turns off Knock Sensors (and I have seen it in other cars) is just not worth giving them business.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I'd rather leave the car factory bone stock than have the knock sensors turned off!

But yeah, I seriously doubt that any of the tuners that members on here use would even think about doing that.

 

[ywgbandit]

It happened as I was doing a datalog at about 5500 rpm and I never competed the log. The plugs from cylinders 1 thru 3 were fine., #4 was black and oily. I had just filled up and my tank was almost completely empty, which was the only reason I filled up at the Mobil station. (Small town with limited choices) Which I have since found out is not the same as in the USA. Mobil here is located on Superstore or Independent Grocers lots and they sell Esso gas. They are "Mobil" in name only. Like most pumps here the 87, 89 and 91 octane all come out of the same hose. 91 is ethanol free, 87 is 10% and 89 is blended inside the pump 50/50 and has 5% ethanol. I have been running this tune for 5 weeks on Chevron gas with no issues. Coincidence or gas? I suspect the fuel. Problem is I have to drive an hour one way to get Chevron. My tuner is Jason from Dizzy tunes and he has always been very conservative in the process and the car had very smooth and steady power band. My car was bought used with 8,800km (5468 miles) the car had just under 20K km (12,400 miles) when it grenaded. I unfortunately read after this happened that early production 2015's had the heads that overheated. This may have been a major contributing factor. I was also very suspicious as to why the previous owner was selling with such low mileage.....I may have found out? I have't had the heart to start the teardown yet, so that's all I have for now.

 

[Dpro]

It happened as I was doing a datalog at about 5500 rpm and I never competed the log. The plugs from cylinders 1 thru 3 were fine., #4 was black and oily. I had just filled up and my tank was almost completely empty, which was the only reason I filled up at the Mobil station. (Small town with limited choices) Which I have since found out is not the same as in the USA. Mobil here is located on Superstore or Independent Grocers lots and they sell Esso gas. They are "Mobil" in name only. Like most pumps here the 87, 89 and 91 octane all come out of the same hose. 91 is ethanol free, 87 is 10% and 89 is blended inside the pump 50/50 and has 5% ethanol. I have been running this tune for 5 weeks on Chevron gas with no issues. Coincidence or gas? I suspect the fuel. Problem is I have to drive an hour one way to get Chevron. My tuner is Jason from Dizzy tunes and he has always been very conservative in the process and the car had very smooth and steady power band. My car was bought used with 8,800km (5468 miles) the car had just under 20K km (12,400 miles) when it grenaded. I unfortunately read after this happened that early production 2015's had the heads that overheated. This may have been a major contributing factor. I was also very suspicious as to why the previous owner was selling with such low mileage.....I may have found out? I have't had the heart to start the teardown yet, so that's all I have for now.

I am not sure about Canada but here in the U.S. we have a top tier certification any gas station brand selling top tier gas is selling good gas. Most name brands are Top Tier gas retailers even Costco sells Top tier gas and so does Arco even though people and some mechanics like to malign Arco with cheap gas BS comments.
As long as the gas is stated Top Tier it has pretty strict regulations for quality . Now if a station is Independent like quite possibly that Mobil station you bought from up there then you have an issue where they can buy tank wash. That is Gas thats used to clean oil tanks and Kerosene tanks at refineries . It will still have the octane and work but it has crap in it which can and will cause issues in high performance engines. It might work fine on a lowly low hp engine putting around though.
Tankwash is indeed sold on the open market and it is cheaper than Top Tier fuel. Perhaps you got some Tankwash?

 

[ywgbandit]

"Top Tier" here only means the fuel exceeds the basic Canadian Fuel Standards for detergent content, which is pretty much meaningless. I'm more concerned that the valve that is located in the pump screwed up and wasn't pumping 91 at all. It is entirely possible the issue was more to do with the coolant flow in the head (hence the recall) but it just seems funny that I ran it for 5 weeks with no issues and within 10 km (6 miles) of filling up with different fuel I burn her up?

 

[Dpro]

"Top Tier" here only means the fuel exceeds the basic Canadian Fuel Standards for detergent content, which is pretty much meaningless. I'm more concerned that the valve theat is located in the pump screwed up and wasn't pumping 91 at all. It is entirely possible the issue was more to do with the coolant flow in the head (hence the recall) but it just seems funny that I ran it for 5 weeks with no issues and within 10 km (6 miles) of filling up with different fuel I burn her up?

Dismiss my post all you want if they bought tankwash it could have contributed if not been causation.
After you now have posted what you have posted though pertaining to the year of your car. I would hazard a guess it might not have had anything to do with your fuel.

Remember there are people on here with cars that fell into the recall years who’s engines just up and popped on mid 60’s degrees days that turned out to be the very coolant head issue.