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I replaced my front speakers (w/pics)

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Marlin
#1
Hello out there, so for the past few weeks I have been trying to quiet my car down and upgrade the sound. 2016 FiST Magnetic sparkle grey. Overall I like the car a lot but two things really really annoyed me: the intense road noise from the tires (we have pretty bad roads out here in the boonies) and pathetic tweeter location (besides the obvious, I drive with my arm resting on the door...so on the speaker).

I did this at the same as my wife's car, which consumed most of the KnoKnoise Kolossus I had bought. I started by taking the trunk apart and pulling the rear seat, placing CLD tiles to fill 25%-50% of the area. Then laid down CCF and MLV on the floor, extending as far to the sides as possible and forwards underneath the rear seat up under the first few inches of the carpet. I didn't have time to go up the sides or properly cover the wheel wells. But overall this cut out quiet a bit of road noise. (Sorry no pics of this)

Next weekend I pulled the wheels and wheel well liners and applied CLD tiles to the outside surface. Then masked off and sprayed 3M 08881 sound deadening undercarriage treatment in each wheel well. On top of that I applied a good amount of CCF and MLV (didn't really do a great job as far as surface area, but can always come back later). The rears I wasn't able to apply much MLV at all because of the angles. The front though...theres a 5" wide gap between the outer sheet metal and the inner that exposes the entire door to the wheel well. There is a small amount of factory sound proofing there, but very flimsy. Well I sealed that up on both sides with CCF and MLV. All said this made a noticable difference. From about 35-90 the road noise is basically the same now, its there but nothing like stock.

This past weekend I replaced the front speakers. I had an old (but brand new) set of Polk DB6501s so I used them. Getting the door panel off takes maybe 2 minutes tops. I cut the old speaker out of its surround and installed the Polk in it, then soldered the polk up so it would just plug right back in. Also popped out the two connectors that ran off that connector to the tweeter, leaving it in place because I was too lazy to remove it. I had run out of CLD tiles at this point, and the door desperately needs them (later this summer). Even though the factory installed a CLD tile in the middle of the outer door skin, its too thin and doesn't do enough. Anyways, had a set of Second Skin Speaker Tweakers so I cut them in half to fit around the bar in the door and surrounded that with a 14" square of CCF. The midrange in the door now sounds very good, but the amount of vibration coming through tells me theres more to be had.


The tweeters I mounted on the A pillars. I pulled them off and really theres only one spot to put them if you're concerned about depth. Fortunately, Ford marked this out with a handy casting mark in identical locations on both sides, so I just used it as a centering mark for the hole saw. Took about 20 minutes on each side to round out the hole enough to push the mounting ring through then gorilla glued it in place. Then wrapped both pillars in leftover suede headliner. I could have done a much, much better job of this. Not least of which I should have made the hole saw hole bigger and tucked the head liner in rather than leave it on top. But I have some leftover plastic trim rings I will put on later to hide it. In the pics it looks dirty, I just haven't had a chance to clean it off yet.

The speaker wire though...I spent a good two hours on both the internet and in the kick panels looking for the speaker wires. Theres MANY white and white/orange wires! Not only that the harnesses are wrapped so tight you'll never find them. Eventually I gave up and pulled the head unit. Which took me about 45 minutes to find instructions for. (The trick is to not be scared of breaking plastic like I was and just PULL lol). I put the drivers side crossover just left of the steering column and the passenger side tucked up above the little pull out piece of sound proofing.

So...all that being said the results: the harshness is gone, radio and sirius sound 100% better. But MP3s off of the thumb drive I have plugged in sound soft almost mushy now. I really really need to install my amp next (and then a DSP bla bla, I need $$ first). The sound stage is wider and clearer though. Overall I'm happy with the results thus far. I wouldn't change what I've done, just use the experience to maybe do a better job of it next time.

Next up 4 channel amp and sub.
 


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Thread Starter #4
Thanks! Last weekend I installed a four channel amp (Profile AP740) and a sub (Rockford Fosgate P2-1x10) with a JBL amp. The sound right now is hard to describe. Its good, the EQ doesn't really bother me too much now, nothing like before. But the sound stage still feels constrained. You can still tell where the speakers are located most of the time. Now though it really depends on the quality of the mp3 I'm playing (I never listen to radio..like ever). Overall though vastly improved from stock.
 


Waterfan

Active member
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#7
Thanks! Last weekend I installed a four channel amp (Profile AP740) and a sub (Rockford Fosgate P2-1x10) with a JBL amp. The sound right now is hard to describe. Its good, the EQ doesn't really bother me too much now, nothing like before. But the sound stage still feels constrained. You can still tell where the speakers are located most of the time. Now though it really depends on the quality of the mp3 I'm playing (I never listen to radio..like ever). Overall though vastly improved from stock.
I'll bet your tweeter relocation helped staging a TON. Probably as much as adding clean power/better drivers.

Thanks again for sharing.
 


GAbOS

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#8
I've been brainstorming an easy way to get tweeters in the little triangle shaped window area for my build without having to cut up the car. Once I get a sure fire way, I'll be sure to post a write up as well.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #9
I've been brainstorming an easy way to get tweeters in the little triangle shaped window area for my build without having to cut up the car. Once I get a sure fire way, I'll be sure to post a write up as well.
At some point I'm going to add midranges to the triangle windows and bandpass the woofers in the door from 80-320 for midbass only. Hence why I put the tweeters up.

I took the rear speakers out and put some cheap parts-express midbasses in, bandpassed from 80-320hz (below 320hz its almost impossible to localize sound). After adjusting the gains to match the fronts, the bass is spectacular now. And this was with 10 minutes of fiddling with no tuning equipment. Theres obviously still peaks and nulls, but everything sounds so much better.

I tore the pillars apart again this weekend, I'll post pics of what I did when I get them back in (its dumping rain today). Also ordered Cadence DSP 4.8 which should be here next week.

If I stopped right now I would be happy. I mean this is not a killer setup or anything thats going to win competitions, but for as little effort as I've actually put in (maybe 8 hours total) I have something that sounds 300% better than stock. When I started all I did was search for ways to replace the head unit, now I am pretty sure I can (with a DSP) get everything I need from the stock head unit. Sirius still sounds like crap though. Also interesting when I started it sounded better with the positioning set to All Seats, now it sounds wayy better on Driver mode.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #10
I'll bet your tweeter relocation helped staging a TON. Probably as much as adding clean power/better drivers.

Thanks again for sharing.
When I first moved the tweeter location, but was running off of head unit power the staging was improved, but the width narrowed. I am no expert, I just read a ton on the internetz and then slap something together and hope for the best (which, given the sheer knowledge thats out there, usually works). I put this down to the lack of power in the midranges in the door, as when I hooked up the amp, the tweeter level stayed the same (by ear, still haven't bought a calibrated microphone yet) but the midrange came alive.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #11
I think if I was to do this again and wanted to keep it very simple I would try wiring up a DIY bandpass crossover for the rear speaker from 80-320hz, HPF the fronts at 80hz* and install a small sub with a 125hz LPF (as a starting point). Four of these: http://www.parts-express.com/500uf-100v-electrolytic-non-polarized-crossover-capacitor--027-378 would HPF the four doors at 80hz and be cheap and simple. I know caps aren't as audiophile as proper crossovers but they are simple.

The reasoning being that midbass (being 80-320) is the weakest area, and most of the time we run the fader towards the front. Well if you bandpass the rears you can set the fader in the middle and use that juice to boost the weakest area (using the rear speakers), which thankfully isn't localizable at that frequency range. Then use the Sub to boost the frequencies that the stock speakers can't hit.

*I read somewhere that the doors resonate at 63hz and indeed if I run the fronts off the amp at full range I get a lot of rattles compared to HPF them at 80hz.
 


antarctica24

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#12
I think if I was to do this again and wanted to keep it very simple I would try wiring up a DIY bandpass crossover for the rear speaker from 80-320hz, HPF the fronts at 80hz* and install a small sub with a 125hz LPF (as a starting point). Four of these: http://www.parts-express.com/500uf-100v-electrolytic-non-polarized-crossover-capacitor--027-378 would HPF the four doors at 80hz and be cheap and simple. I know caps aren't as audiophile as proper crossovers but they are simple.

The reasoning being that midbass (being 80-320) is the weakest area, and most of the time we run the fader towards the front. Well if you bandpass the rears you can set the fader in the middle and use that juice to boost the weakest area (using the rear speakers), which thankfully isn't localizable at that frequency range. Then use the Sub to boost the frequencies that the stock speakers can't hit.

*I read somewhere that the doors resonate at 63hz and indeed if I run the fronts off the amp at full range I get a lot of rattles compared to HPF them at 80hz.
If you think your midbass sounds good now, when you get your midrange speakers play them from 2500-200 and play your midbass from 200-50 and your subs from 50 and down. All of the localization will dissapear and your subbass will appear to be coming from the front of the vehicle.

Just a thought :)
 


OP
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Thread Starter #13
Subbass already sounds like it comes from the front :). Only time it appears from the rear is if I turn my head about 75* to the right. Any further back and it sounds from the front again. Reversed polarity firing towards the rear
 


OP
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Thread Starter #14
I'm tight for money now (lots of medical bills hit in the same month), I'm just going to get the DSP in and fiddle with it for a few months. Unless I can get a screaming deal on some midrange speakers of course.
 


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Summerville
#15
Hello, when you replaced your factory speakers did you happen to see what brand they where? Also what size? Trying to find a pic of the factory door speakers. Thanks in advance.
 


M-Sport fan

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#16
+1

Eventually, I want to replace the factory speakers ONLY as well, even if it would not be anywhere near 'optimum' sound to even a non-audiophile.

I do NOT want to add amps and subs as I refuse to add that weight to this car (even if the sub box is removable), and want to avoid all of the wiring nightmares/tearing the whole interior apart. (IF I ever do that, it will be for weight reduction ONLY! ;) )

I know that they are FAR from audiophile level experts, but Crutchfield had suggested the Polk audio speakers as replacements, and I'm guessing because of their reasonable cost, decent efficiency(?), and due to the low power level of the factory amp.
(I wanted to use Focals, but they thought that would be a waste, given the lack of clean power from the factory amp, and the inefficient nature of the Focal product lineup.)
 


Based

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#17
How did the sound deadening on the wheel wells do? Is the road noise quieter now or not really a big difference?
 


Intuit

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#18
Hello, when you replaced your factory speakers did you happen to see what brand they where? Also what size? Trying to find a pic of the factory door speakers. Thanks in advance.
Don't forget about ohms. Unless the factory speakers are old or damaged, it can be difficult to get better results from replacing speakers alone due to the fact that the factory head unit is tuned to the characteristics of the factory supplied speakers. Characteristics from one speaker to the next, vary widely. Replace them and your sound could be very quiet, or very loud, or very "voicy" (loud mid-range). Some speakers require notably more power to drive the woofer, some just seem poorly balanced. This is why it is important to look up the specs on the original equipment, before deciding on a set of replacements. Even with the specs, the selected replacement may still sound underwelming in comparison to the original.
 




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