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Idle Clutch Rattle

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US
#1
I've done some reading and it seems it could be throw out bearing or a cracked clutch. Car drives fine but I hear constant rattle when idling with clutch out. When I depress the paddle it goes quiet.

Car has 100k miles, likely the original clutch but I'm not sure. I did purchase an extended warranty from a ford dealership but I'm pretty sure wearables are excluded.

My question is, if it is the clutch, is there a better option than stock? Last time I upgraded a clutch it was blowing slaves left and right. If stock is usually good as far as maintenance I'll stick with it. Advice please, or links to thorough discussions.

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OP
G
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Thread Starter #3
If I’m not mistaken we have a dual mass flywheel and that’s the noise we hear
So neither, haha. Well if this is normal rattling, how do you tell when it's really on it's way out? Does it rattle even when the clutch is disengaged? Or just get louder?

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387
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Location
Yorktown
#4
The stock clutch assembly is more than enough for stock and higher hp and tq numbers. Having have had a car with a dual mass flywheel I can attest to how loud they are. As far as how to tell when a failure is imminent, assuming your at idle the noise should get substantially worse or just fail completely. If it happens under load going down the road you hear the bearing get tossed around the bell housing and then feel nothing as you try to press the clutch in. All the above mentioned reasons is why never stay in gear if I don’t have to and rev match as much as possible. I also don’t flat floor shift or money shift and I have 83k on my car.


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OP
G
Messages
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Location
US
Thread Starter #5
The stock clutch assembly is more than enough for stock and higher hp and tq numbers. Having have had a car with a dual mass flywheel I can attest to how loud they are. As far as how to tell when a failure is imminent, assuming your at idle the noise should get substantially worse or just fail completely. If it happens under load going down the road you hear the bearing get tossed around the bell housing and then feel nothing as you try to press the clutch in. All the above mentioned reasons is why never stay in gear if I don’t have to and rev match as much as possible. I also don’t flat floor shift or money shift and I have 83k on my car.


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I noticed that sometimes I could hear it, and other times it was almost completely inaudible, clutch out. I noticed when I abruptly let off the clutch the rattle comes back. If I gently ease off the clutch, I don't hear the rattle. Also seems to be more noticeable once the car is warm. Sounds like it's nothing to worry about at the moment. With 100k have to wonder about any odd noises.
 


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Location
Yorktown
#6
I noticed that sometimes I could hear it, and other times it was almost completely inaudible, clutch out. I noticed when I abruptly let off the clutch the rattle comes back. If I gently ease off the clutch, I don't hear the rattle. Also seems to be more noticeable once the car is warm. Sounds like it's nothing to worry about at the moment. With 100k have to wonder about any odd noises.
Hearing that rattle if abruptly letting out the clutch would make sense having a sprung friction disc and dual mass flywheel. I too feel like Ive noticed a little more clack or clink noise in this car when driving around but performance has never changed. Its hard for me to admit being a tech because I am OCD to an extreme, but I think its easy to forget that this is economy car built to be light, fun, and fuel efficient. All of that is achieved through using cheaper and less material for sound deadening.
 


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#7
I am going to have my tranny out, and "while there" I am going to replace the clutch. A recommendation was made to go with a dual mass flywheel - so, I wan't to ask:
1) Is the stock one a DMF as @Erick_V suggested above?
2) If not, where can I find one (Googel isn't particularly helpful)

Thanks.
 


Intuit

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#9
DMF provides no performance benefit. It smooths out vibrations between the engine and transmission, in much the same way that the clutch disc springs smooths out clutch releases.
 


Intuit

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#13
My understanding is that it is easier on the clutch than a single mass.
Pretty interesting interview.
https://www.just-auto.com/interview...mx65-manual-transmission-family_id163132.aspx
"<<................................................... replace iB5 without any modification to existing drivetrains. That was especially tough because the iB5 does not have a dual-mass flywheel (DMF) - so there's not any NVH damping between engine output and the drivetrain - and when you increase to six-forward gears and one-reverse, you have much more opportunity for gear rattle and chatter. But MX65 has to do without a DMF too, to keep the desired "plug and play" attribute and a DMF would have added about US$70 to the cost.............................................>>

Direct injection four and three cylinder engines have a much less smooth output versus port fuel injection. That's why everything has gone DMF.
 


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Location
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#14
Messages
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Location
West Chester, PA, USA
#15
Input shaft bearing(s). I'm currently waiting for them to come off of a quality-based back order with my car sitting at a dealership. Thankfully just prior to the 60K warranty expiring. When they finally let go - you'll know it - excruciating metal on metal grinding, slightly relieved by depressing the clutch pedal.
 




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