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Ignition Correction Cyl. #4 2 Degree Drop Mountune Stage 2 beta map

Messages
12
Likes
2
Location
Tucson
#1
Hey everyone,
I am attempting some data logging with the 2018 Mountune RR1 91 beta 2B preloaded map from the FB3 package off Mountunes website for revisions with Randy. I noticed at 2300 in rpm, the ignition corrections for cylinder #4 drop 2 degrees to +.07 from +3.2, every other cylinder stays at +3.4 degrees. Is this a bad sign? Is cylinder 4 going too be an issue or is this simply something the tuner will compensate for in the new tune? I plan on being in slot 4 aka panic mode too avoid more/any detonation. I have been using QT brand 91 octane fuel and have OAR values of -1 on this map. Car har 8200 miles on it with basic Mountune stage 2 bolt ons;
Mountune High Flow Induction Hose, Mountune High Flow Lower Intercooler Charge Pipe, Mountune FB3 Package(intercooler, RMM, Cobb APV3, airbox[still have not recieved]), Mountune Turbosmart Kompact BOV kit, & Radium Engineering Dual Catch can System​
Screen Shot 2019-06-08 at 9.24.47 PM.png
Screen Shot 2019-06-08 at 9.25.34 PM.png
Here is one of the data logs showing this; I hope someone can put my mind at ease or at least give me a sense of what I should do moving forward. I've been doing my best to learn about ignition corrections and OARs, if there are any other things anyone thinks are worth expanding my knowledge on please let me know. Im really trying to be a student of these motors/cars. Ive been data logging with Randy at mountune however I have been experiencing difficulties with the actual data or following the exact instructions and keep having too redo logs and that takes around 7 days to hear anything back. Any help or if someone can glance over my logs sooner and give their thoughts I would really appreciate it, thank you Fiesta fam.
Timothy
 
Messages
48
Likes
13
Location
Cheshire
#2
I am kinda in the same spot as you regarding custom tuning with Randy. Negative corrections is a rabbit hole of a topic, but from what I have gathered, some neg correctly isn’t a bad thing as long as it’s not frequent and severe (more than 1.5 deg or so). I plan to just keep the back and forth going with Randy until we settle on a safe reliable tune.

I also struggle with following the directions given to the tee but honestly you do the best you can.
 
OP
G
Messages
12
Likes
2
Location
Tucson
Thread Starter #3
Thanks for your input, it is definitely a rabbit hole topic and I can't really ever get a solid answer. Kinda makes me think it may not be a big problem unless your driving it too redline everywhere you go. I try not to go over 4500 rpm really so hopefully granny shifting will be on my side. I hear your supposed to drive these motors kinda hard.. however that is difficult to conscientiously do when I see contestant drops in correction on the same cylinder (#4). What are your (& anyone else that would care to share) OARs may I ask? On a stage 0 tune I can't seem to get any lower than -.61 and on the stage 2 I am able too achieve -1 values. The instructions seem to make more and more sense every time I do more research or read an article on eco boost motors, I've been having lots of aha moments rereading the instructions or previous emails and data logs. Also I've been looking back at my previous logs from weeks before and it looks like cylinder 4 was getting less positive corrections than cylinder 1,2, & 3 (ie. +6, +6, +6, +4.5 degrees of ign. corr.) on the stage 2 map. Should I be concerned or is this normal to have these inconsistencies across the cylinders. Does anyone have any idea as to how many knocks counted are bad? I understand these motors do knock and that it may not be a bad thing but is there a number, say for example if I hit 5 counted knocks on cylinder #4 in one pull or something like that. Ive only seen up too 2 counted knocks in cylinder 4 on a pull so I'm not sure if thats okay, I'm curious if theres such a thing as too many knocks. Thanks for any input from anyone it is greatly appreciated. Have an awesome day
 
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48
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13
Location
Cheshire
#4
I had crappy AOR and they varied from about .46 to -1.00 where it should be. Bad gas was the cause. After switching to Costco gas all AOR have been -1.

It’s up to you but I wouldn’t worry so much about the neg corrections. I found that the articles on the stratified tuning page offer enough knowledge to the layperson.

One thing I was told was to no bog the engine in high gear and if you’re in higher gear and need to get on the gas, keep boost negative or downshift into lower gear. Bogging engine has caused neg corrections with my car.
 

CSM

Active member
Messages
597
Likes
266
Location
Charlotte
#5
It happens occasionally when you are pro-tuned. Step 1: Add a gal or two of E85 to boost octane. Hopefully you see the issue correct itself. If not, then check the gap on your plugs.
 

MRX330

Active member
Messages
628
Likes
271
Location
Minnesota
#6
You need to find out when it is happening. Low speed in traffic I wouldn’t worry about. If you are getting negative corrections at wot that isn’t good. I would use Sunoco Chevron Mobil Exxon and if you can find E85 add some. I would get a pro tune for sure. In the meantime check the plug and see if it’s fouled or not. I would just replace it anyway to see what happens. Oh and get some oil made for direct injection engines and don’t wail on it until it’s warmed up. [burnout]
 
OP
G
Messages
12
Likes
2
Location
Tucson
Thread Starter #7
I had crappy AOR and they varied from about .46 to -1.00 where it should be. Bad gas was the cause. After switching to Costco gas all AOR have been -1.

It’s up to you but I wouldn’t worry so much about the neg corrections. I found that the articles on the stratified tuning page offer enough knowledge to the layperson.

One thing I was told was to no bog the engine in high gear and if you’re in higher gear and need to get on the gas, keep boost negative or downshift into lower gear. Bogging engine has caused neg corrections with my car.
My OARs are at -1 now, Im pretty sure I did the data logs right after I loaded the maps. I now realize that I should have driven the car bc it needs miles and the drive cycle to learn the right OAR. Ive been talking to this dude on instagram (@worthams_garage) about his stratified tunes and some basics on corrections, afrs, oars, boost levels and all the good stuff.
 
OP
G
Messages
12
Likes
2
Location
Tucson
Thread Starter #8
It happens occasionally when you are pro-tuned. Step 1: Add a gal or two of E85 to boost octane. Hopefully you see the issue correct itself. If not, then check the gap on your plugs.
Ive been looking at upgrading plugs and seeing if it changes the issue. I want to put some e85 in, do I need any fuel mods to run an E30 mixture? Or could someone literally do this in a stock fiesta
mine isn't just curious
 
OP
G
Messages
12
Likes
2
Location
Tucson
Thread Starter #9
You need to find out when it is happening. Low speed in traffic I wouldn’t worry about. If you are getting negative corrections at wot that isn’t good. I would use Sunoco Chevron Mobil Exxon and if you can find E85 add some. I would get a pro tune for sure. In the meantime check the plug and see if it’s fouled or not. I would just replace it anyway to see what happens. Oh and get some oil made for direct injection engines and don’t wail on it until it’s warmed up. [burnout]
Well it seems to happen around 4k at WOT and corrects as I go up in the rpms, I don't really want to take it too high though. Ill post a fresh data log later with some analysis or something. They aren't ever in the neg numbers, they aren't as high of corrections as the other cylinders. ie 1,2,&3 will be at like 5 or 6 and it might be fluctuating from about 2.75ish up to like 5.8. Once again they don't go negative they aren't as high as the other cylinders and it does tend to fluctuate up too 3 degrees. Ive read somewhere that even if they aren't going negative and are adjusting up to 3 degrees like that, I may have an issue. Im running the panic mode and will post a data log from today to show the numbers. It is a struggle to find some E85 in Tucson but I will try. In the meantime I have been looking at flash tunes from companies like stratified, cpe, and mountune.. is a pro tune any different? Im still in my 45 day data logging period with Randy at mountune and am waiting for a response from the data logs I last sent. Ill have to check out #4s plug and see if replacing makes a difference. As far as oil I am already using an oil made for GDIT and eco boost, been running Castrol Edge 5W20 for the last 3 oil changes. If you have a better suggestion other than royal purple ($$$) I'm all ears, I figured that was good enough since it says specialized for GDI Turbo engines on the bottle(mentions eco boost on the back as well). I like to replace the oil based on color and miles and would rather not spend like $40 on purple oil. Im up to anything that is known to be better in the community though.
 

MRX330

Active member
Messages
628
Likes
271
Location
Minnesota
#10
A pro tune will be made based on your car doing a pull in third or fourth gear. False knock is also something that can cause negative corrections. The knock sensors on our car are very sensitive. Having good fuel with more octane than the tune calls for will help ie adding a gallon or 2 of E85 will give more consistent positive corrections. Forced induction!!! 👍👌🧨
 
OP
G
Messages
12
Likes
2
Location
Tucson
Thread Starter #11
Screen Shot 2019-06-11 at 7.48.31 PM.png It looks like right at 3200 rpm cylinder 4 goes from +6 to +3.71, back up to +4.21 briefly and then continues to drop to +1.71 at 3700 rpm. It does raise back up too +2.21 around 4k and at 4200 i let off slightly to 96% throttle and it roes up to +3.21 again before I let off throttle. Im hesitant to go higher in the range, also worth noting that I currently using the "panic mode" slot of the mountune beta map. Also my OARs are at -1, it wouldn't fit on my screen shot. Any input would be sweet! Thank you
 
Messages
48
Likes
13
Location
Cheshire
#12
In terms of oil, everyone will have an opinion. I started with Amsoil but got sick of paying $8 a quart even as a preferred member.

Switched to Pennzoil platinum 5w20. 1/2 pride of amsoil and is almost as good. It meets Ford spec and is marketing to DI turbo engines. Amazon has good deals.
 
OP
G
Messages
12
Likes
2
Location
Tucson
Thread Starter #13
Update on the corrections... Randy sent me a revised tune 3 days ago and things are much better. I am not seeing the inconsistansies on timing corrections like I was seeing before. I have been using the full boost slot one and am seeing est torque numbers of 265+ at WOT (what my APV3 is estimating). However I only see these numbers when it is cooler outside; ATM Tucson AZ is seeing 100+ temperatures during the day and even with the upgraded intercooler and a/c off I don't see boost higher than 21-22 psi and est torque figures around 250. I don't ever push the car in these conditions but I've been curious to see how the heat affects the numbers my AP will put out. Id really like to get an upgraded rad/oil cooler to keep my temps down and be able to report some numbers for the summer. Also I installed a CPE Blockd DV Delete Plate to cover the factory diverter valve location on the stock KP39 turbo, I am now seeing much more consistent boost levels through out the rev range. This is probably a combo of the elevation adjustments and data log revisions Randy made too the
Mountune map plus the delete of any boost leaks on the turbo itself. I will post more recent data logs soon if anyone is interested in checking them out.
 
Messages
181
Likes
65
Location
Baton Rouge
#14
Update on the corrections... Randy sent me a revised tune 3 days ago and things are much better. I am not seeing the inconsistansies on timing corrections like I was seeing before. I have been using the full boost slot one and am seeing est torque numbers of 265+ at WOT (what my APV3 is estimating). However I only see these numbers when it is cooler outside; ATM Tucson AZ is seeing 100+ temperatures during the day and even with the upgraded intercooler and a/c off I don't see boost higher than 21-22 psi and est torque figures around 250. I don't ever push the car in these conditions but I've been curious to see how the heat affects the numbers my AP will put out. Id really like to get an upgraded rad/oil cooler to keep my temps down and be able to report some numbers for the summer. Also I installed a CPE Blockd DV Delete Plate to cover the factory diverter valve location on the stock KP39 turbo, I am now seeing much more consistent boost levels through out the rev range. This is probably a combo of the elevation adjustments and data log revisions Randy made too the
Mountune map plus the delete of any boost leaks on the turbo itself. I will post more recent data logs soon if anyone is interested in checking them out.
You still running OEM plugs?
 
Messages
628
Likes
271
Location
Minnesota
#16
Err on the side of more octane and never continue to pump fuel into your tank if it pumps slowly. Bad gas is real and gets worser when you’re pumping the bottom of the barrel into your tank. Ask me how I know 🤢
 


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