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Matt's Oxford White 2014 FiST Build Thread

OP
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Thread Starter #61
Haven't dynod it and probably won't until later this year because I'll just be disappointed due to the disgusting heat and humidity we will have until November. Come winter, I'll dyno it and shoot for 12s at the track.
 


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#62
I'm thinking about doing a dyno but rather wait till I get the tune from adam and than switch the tunes same day do couple pulls with cobbs ots than a couple pulls with Adams tune. You like the e30 tune? I'm considering it, I only get 91 in Oklahoma :/ not sure about mixing I've been told it's not that hard just a pain.
 


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Thread Starter #63
It's really not bad for me...there's ONE E85 gas station around here but it's like 4 minutes from my house, and literally right outside my shop. There are calculators you can use online or on your phone...I usually end up adding somewhere around 3 gallons of E85 and fill the rest with 93. It's totally worth it IMO, but my car is more or less a weekend car so I don't have to refuel too often.
 


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Thread Starter #66
It is the stock KP39, with modified guts for more airflow.
 


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#67
Ah now i feel stupid i guess its like the cyborg turbo I think some guy makes them on here.
 


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Thread Starter #68
Installed the turbo today, and it went very smoothly. From start to finish, it took right around 5 hours.

I let the car sit overnight. I lost maybe 1/2 quart of coolant when disconnecting the coolant lines, and only lost whatever oil was inside the turbo (not really a measurable amount in terms of overall oil level).

I used SourSkittle's turbo removal DIY as a guide, but I didn't remove the cold side, hot side, then manifold separately. Once everything was unbolted, the entire turbo assembly, still mounted to the manifold, came out the top without issue. I did not have to remove my downpipe from the car, I simply had to unbolt it from the turbo. I didn't even have to loosen it from the cat-back.

I also used Cobb's intake install guide, as it gives you a pretty good idea of which order to remove your headlights, upper/lower cowl, intake pieces etc. From there, it's basically removing the manifold heat shield, unbolting the downpipe, oil and coolant lines, disconnecting some electrical connections and hot side charge pipe, etc. Pretty easy to figure out once you're at this point.

Thanks to johnnyaf87, here are the gaskets you should replace when doing this install. Luckily, Adam has an option to include these with the purchase of the turbo. I bought them separately, even though Pumaspeed told me they were sending me "all the gaskets I would need", which is good because they didn't send me any.

Turbo to manifold gasket
BM5Z-9450-A
Oil feed line gasket
4R8Z-6N652-A
Downpipe to turbo gasket
AM5Z-9450-A

Only hiccup was that I broke one downpipe bolt in my old turbo...there was no saving it (ironically the new turbo had a helicoil in the same hole I broke the bolt off on my stock turbo). It was the last one I took out, and I think the weight of the downpipe pulled on the bolt while I was loosening it...can't hurt to have some extra bolts on hand in advance, as I ultimately had to go to the hardware store to buy an extra. Luckily, no issues removing the manifold bolts. If you have an extra hand, have someone support the downpipe and/or manifold when you loosen the bolts to avoid putting extra stress on the threads.

Link to SourSkittle's turbo removal thread:
http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/2592-How-To-Remove-your-turbocharger

Cobb Intake Install Guide:
https://cobb.app.box.com/v/701100instructions

Heat shield is the biggest pain in the ass. Mine only had two bolts in since it was already bent from my downpipe install, and I was lucky to get them both back in after wrestling with it for 20 minutes.

Anyways, on to some pics.

Starting out.




Headlights removed




Followed by wipers and upper/lower cowl










Nemesis.




Once that POS is off, this is what you'll see.




My broken downpipe bolt and its replacement.




More disassembly in progress...coolant lines are 17mm, oil line is T30 torx.








Old vs new




Switching parts over, including my Tune+ wastegate actuator. I was instructed by Adam to use 1 turn of preload with the new turbo, just an FYI for those




Ready to rock and roll.




New turbo in, assemble in reverse order. Very straight forward.














5 hours later, all done!




Waiting to get the tune ironed out now, so I can't comment on results just yet. Only seeing ~7.5 psi as it sits...I'm chomping at the bit to see what 25psi feels like!

I hope this helps give you guys an idea as to what you'll encounter. Anyone with basic mechanic skills can install this thing. The only tricky parts are the ones I described - trying not to cross thread the downpipe or manifold bolts, and just being careful with various fittings and connections. Take your time, use common sense, and you'll be fine. Oh, and smoke from the engine bay is normal after the install. A little oil/coolant may have dripped on some exhaust parts, and I sprayed the shit out of my manifold and DP bolts with JB80 penetrating oil, so I had a bit of smoke for awhile. Keep an eye on things and make sure no fittings are leaking, and it wouldn't be a bad idea to check the torque on your downpipe/manifold bolts after a few heat cycles, if you feel like disassembling everything and wrestling the damn heat shield again...with that being said, I'm not messing with it lol. Videos to come as soon as the tune is finalized.
 


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MS67

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Thread Starter #69
Car is feeling pretty awesome right now. Should be buttoning up the E30 tune this week.

Driving impressions:

Boost is more predictable and linear. Boost isn't as instant, but it's not laggy by any means. Power gains from 3k-7k are VERY noticeable and the car pulls like a freight train compared to the stock turbo. I'm extremely pleased and feel that this is a perfect power level for this chassis.

Also, I got a set of used ST XTA coilovers locally from Chuckable. Installed them Sunday and it only took me about 3 hours start to finish...working by myself, and that includes drilling out the upper rear strut mounts and clearancing the body mounting holes. I also lubricated the top mounts a little bit due to reports of squeaking. No abnormal noises thus far. I still need to get an alignment, but so far the car feels more compliant over bumps. You can tell the springs are stiffer, but the shocks aren't overdamped like the factory ones, so the ride isn't as bouncy. I set them to 9 clicks from full stiff in the front, and 8 clicks from full stiff in the rear.











Didn't go super low, there's still a bit more range to drop the car but I feel this is a perfect stance. I'll get more pics when the car is clean and it isn't storming outside, which may be a few days!
 


OP
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Location
Palm City
Thread Starter #71
Installed a Rola roof rack w/2 Yakima frontloader bike racks. Had to install the rack about 8-10" forward of the recommended setting because it obstructed the hatch from opening, but aside from that it was super easy to install and works great.

 


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