New FiST owner

[sdelivery]

Hey All. I've wanted one of these for years and finally decided to pull the trigger to teach my son to drive manual and how to work cars. Grabbed a completely stock 2017 with 161k on the clock that happened to be in the area a few weeks ago. Runs great, but needs some cosmetic love (definitely involved in a front end collision, and some idiot drilled holes to mount an autozone hood scoop). Besides the bumper brackets being broken, found the radiator support was broken in numerous spots, the welds on the cross piece that the rad support and crash sensors mount to were broken, and the driver side fender rail apron was a little smooshed, and the lower mounting tabs on both headlights were broken. Repaired the apron, replaced the rest, massaged the bent portions of the hood back into place, and everything fits together passably. Plan is to do autocross periodically, which includes a 170 mile drive to/from the closest club, as well as an around town beater. Currently fixing to install the eBay GPI radiator, a replacement overflow tank, get some correct sized tires, replace the front pads/rotors, and replace the AC blender motors.

Only issue noted so far (besides overheating after a spirited drive followed by dead stop traffic): At idle it started stutter/drop down to nearly stalling and pick back up. I read all of the threads regarding this after re-fueling, it started happening on less then a half tank so doubt that's it. Probably going to convert it to a 14-15 evap harness anyways so that is a problem for another day.

Previous cars: 91 Stealth TT, 05 Evo VIII MR, and currently daily a 2020 F150 Raptor.

View attachment IMG_4906.jpg

 

[Zeille]

Welcome!
First, I would highly recommend an aftermarket radiator.
Second, rather than converting the evap harness, you could just cut the current setup up so it's easy to replace the purge valve. (replace the hard lines before and after the valve with hoses and worm clamps, might be 3/8in ID or smaller, I cannot recall, but that's how I have mine set up)

 

[sdelivery]

Welcome!
First, I would highly recommend an aftermarket radiator.
Second, rather than converting the evap harness, you could just cut the current setup up so it's easy to replace the purge valve. (replace the hard lines before and after the valve with hoses and worm clamps, might be 3/8in ID or smaller, I cannot recall, but that's how I have mine set up)

I went with the all aluminum radiator from eBay (linked from someone else's post, fairly sure its a mishimoto clone). The stock one is the smallest I've ever seen. Im fairly sure my motorcycle radiator holds more coolant.

Thanks for the tip on the purge valve lines, that route sounds significantly more cost effective.

 

[Zeille]

I went with the all aluminum radiator from eBay (linked from someone else's post, fairly sure its a mishimoto clone). The stock one is the smallest I've ever seen. Im fairly sure my motorcycle radiator holds more coolant.

Thanks for the tip on the purge valve lines, that route sounds significantly more cost effective.

If you are wanting to go aftermarket on an intake/crossover pipe where it goes to the one port, you will need to convert to the 14/15 harness. If you stay stock (which the stock intake works well enough), you can keep it as is. I bought a super cheap purge valve from eBay, tossed it on the car maybe 5-10k miles ago, and it's been great since. Was like $15.

 

[sdelivery]

If you are wanting to go aftermarket on an intake/crossover pipe where it goes to the one port, you will need to convert to the 14/15 harness. If you stay stock (which the stock intake works well enough), you can keep it as is. I bought a super cheap purge valve from eBay, tossed it on the car maybe 5-10k miles ago, and it's been great since. Was like $15.

The plan for now is stock. Will take a look for the ebay valve, though even the OEM valve itself is only 27$, way better than 200+ for the whole set up.