Radiator Fan Woes

[sdelivery]

Hey all, recently picked up a 17 FiST. Replaced the radiator after it overheated 2x and noted it was a common issue. After the replacement went in the radiator fan would not turn on (low or high), and the fan was working fine prior to replacement.

edit: the fan will not turn on with the AC on

So far I’ve done the following:
-Relay tests fine (75ohm across the coil)
-I have 12vdc at the plug leading into the module with the car running and/or ignition on
-I have 12vdc at the plug out of the module with the ignition on (I had to pull the IC pipe to get unplugged, have not put the piping back in to test with the car
-The fan spins when connected directly to 12v
-No CEL
-noted cracked wire insulation on both the power and ground wires at the engine harness plug To the module and insulated with e-tape as a temp fix.

Are there any specific resistance tests that can be run on the module?

I was going to test the coolant temp sensor but debating just replacing it since it’s relatively cheap.

I would generally assume it’s unrelated, but I changed the coils and plugs at the same time. I also have the headlight housings out of the car. I pulled the crash bar and rad support as it seemed easier, but everything is plugged back in as it should be.

 

[LilPartyBox]

Since you still have it apart, the temp sensor is a logical next step.

 

[sdelivery]

Replaced the temp sensor (ended up getting several P0128, thermostat below thermostat regulating temp codes.

started the car and still no fan when up to temp nor when AC on.

picked up a used fan control module off eBay and swapped it in. Still no fan with AC on.

Previously tested the fan (connected direct to battery) and it spun.

What’s the next logical step here?

 

[Sam4]

What’s the next logical step here?[/QUOTE]

On/Off toggle switch. Power the fan when you need to...I assume you can't really drive the car as is.

 

[sczamun]

Replaced the temp sensor (ended up getting several P0128, thermostat below thermostat regulating temp codes.

started the car and still no fan when up to temp nor when AC on.

picked up a used fan control module off eBay and swapped it in. Still no fan with AC on.

Previously tested the fan (connected direct to battery) and it spun.

What’s the next logical step here?

These cars act weird when anything electrical is messed with without disconnecting the negative side of the battery (A/C won't turn on, etc). Have you disconnected the negtive and let it sit

 

[sdelivery]

These cars act weird when anything electrical is messed with without disconnecting the negative side of the battery (A/C won't turn on, etc). Have you disconnected the negtive and let it sit

I haven’t let it sit, however the negative terminal was disconnected the entire time while I replaced the radiator and the coils, and then again when I replaced the coolant temp sensor and the control module.

Where does the signal to turn the fan on come from? I find it odd this I have 12v on the module output side and the fan just isn’t spinning (despite spinning when connected directly to 12v).

 

[sdelivery]

What’s the next logical step here?

On/Off toggle switch. Power the fan when you need to...I assume you can't really drive the car as is.[/QUOTE]

That’s what I’m looking at unfortunately. I can drive it as is for another month or two before it’s 100+ daily.

 

[sczamun]

I haven’t let it sit, however the negative terminal was disconnected the entire time while I replaced the radiator and the coils, and then again when I replaced the coolant temp sensor and the control module.

Where does the signal to turn the fan on come from? I find it odd this I have 12v on the module output side and the fan just isn’t spinning (despite spinning when connected directly to 12v).

Reading for voltage is great for troubleshooting (looking for shorts/opens), but if a device is under load, things can go wrong. Can't tell you how many times I'll be getting correct voltage to the component only for it to not function correctly when turned on, especially with ICs in between. You can put something in line to measure current or you can put an oscilloscope on it to see how it acts. Honestly if I were you, I'd double check the wiring. Then I'd fire the parts cannon and just get a new fan module.