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Rebuilding TJIN Ford Fiesta ST

OP
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Minneapolis, MN, USA
Thread Starter #41
I should add that I may have jumped the gun before by saying the communications network being shorted could damage the modules. After a small amount of research it doesn't seem that the module communication wires being shorted to the chassis in the event of the accident should damage the module in question, but being that the wiring seems intact after being replaced it really only leaves the possibility of the module(s) according to the WSM. That could get expensive very fast, and still may not solve your issue. More in depth testing is a bit painstaking and would be best with a scope. I apologise for not having anything more to add right now, but I'll try and do some more research and thinking after work. I'm stoked at the idea of this Fiesta coming back to life.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
No worries at all. I know the module was working just fine when I first got the car, everything happened the first time I started it after replacing the wiring harness. Do I need to reflash or reprogram the ABS module after switching the wiring harness?
 


OP
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Location
Minneapolis, MN, USA
Thread Starter #42
Still working on the ABS light issue however, today I need to focus on the suspension as the right side (side that took the hit) is slightly off towards the right

I'm only seeing a bent inner tie rod (replacing that and the outer tie rod). I know the control arm is bad so I'll be replacing that as well. Are you guys seeing anything else bent or that may be broken?
IMG_20191018_154148.jpg IMG_20191018_154207.jpg IMG_20191018_160540.jpg IMG_20191018_160558.jpg IMG_20191018_160643.jpg

Also here is the picture of the car as it sits now! I put on the damaged hood just to drive it around the street and it did great! I got it up to third gear and finally hit that turbo... what a feeling! :) I literally can't wait to get that ABS issue figured out so I can drive it! (You can also see how the right wheel is slightly off)
IMG-20191018-WA0002.jpeg
 


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PunkST

Active member
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Menasha
#43
Im curious to find out if the power steering issue goes away when you replace the bent tie rod and control arm. It could be making the rack all sorts of ticked off. Its starting to come around though. Also is your driveway that crooked or is the arm that bent??
 


OP
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Location
Minneapolis, MN, USA
Thread Starter #44
Im curious to find out if the power steering issue goes away when you replace the bent tie rod and control arm. It could be making the rack all sorts of ticked off. Its starting to come around though. Also is your driveway that crooked or is the arm that bent??
Agreed! New inner tie rod should be here tomorrow morning and I'm about to go tackle the control arm. I'm also looking into a new front bumper cover but darn they are expensive especially when compared to the Focus'. I'll probably just suck it up and get an OEM. I was looking into the RS one but it looks like it needs quite the work to make it

The driveway is flat as a pancake I think what makes the car look crooked is my arm and the fact that I don't have any control over the air suspension as the remote wasn't in the car but I reached out to Airlift and they can sell me a remote controller which should finally let me lift up the car.
 


PunkST

Active member
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Menasha
#45
Oh, lol yeah That will make it crooked. I wonder if that. Makes the stability control mad when driving.
 


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Location
Portland
#46
It seems like those are the only two things that are really been out of shape, I can't imagine the knuckle would give way much before the tire rod and control arm. Also, I thought about the ABS issue and I'm curious if a hard reset would work. Taking the negative and positive battery cables off and hooking then together for about 15 minutes. Maybe your already tried this, but if not it might help!

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 


OP
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Thread Starter #49
It seems like those are the only two things that are really been out of shape, I can't imagine the knuckle would give way much before the tire rod and control arm. Also, I thought about the ABS issue and I'm curious if a hard reset would work. Taking the negative and positive battery cables off and hooking then together for about 15 minutes. Maybe your already tried this, but if not it might help!

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
I tried that and nothing. I can only see two things at this point
1. CAN BUS High Speed High or Low is bad
2. The whole module needs a hard reset to communicate with all the other modules after the wiring harness switch

Other than those, I'm not sure what else could be wrong. It gets voltage and the ground is working as expected. I think it will end up at Ford or some local dealer to get it further diagnosed but not looking forward to that bill
 


OP
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Thread Starter #51
Update:
I got the control arm off the car... and I all can say is that the ball joint was a huge PITA to get off! It has been the biggest struggle I've had with this car so far.... I got this ball joint seprator and it still took me a couple hours of hammering.
I had to battle so hard with the ball joint that I'm afraid I forced the front axle more than it was supposed to. I hear like a buzzing sound some times if I move it a bit (like depressurization) and I've seen some grease leak (light yellow, almost creamy looking) from one end of the protective boot. Hopefully I didn't mess anything up, otherwise I'll have to end up buying a new one :rolleyes:
I also got the outer tie rod disconnected and just waiting on a new boot for the inner tie rod before I took the one on the car off (the boot and clamps aren't reusable).

A few more updates:
1. I called Airlift and they told me the remote that I'm going to need to finally be able to operate the air suspension!
2. I was able to locate a rear spoiler locally for very cheap
3. Currently looking for a new set of tires as I verified that the front right wheel is bent.

I'm going to be ordering the front bumper cover and hood this week. I also hope to have the rear glass replaced by late this week or next week.

I'll upload some photos later today.
 


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Location
Portland
#52
I tried that and nothing. I can only see two things at this point
1. CAN BUS High Speed High or Low is bad
2. The whole module needs a hard reset to communicate with all the other modules after the wiring harness switch

Other than those, I'm not sure what else could be wrong. It gets voltage and the ground is working as expected. I think it will end up at Ford or some local dealer to get it further diagnosed but not looking forward to that bill
You're probably right, bringing it to a dealer might be the only option for the communication issue, unless you can borrow the ford diagnostic equipment or know someone who has it. It's is a shame to bring it to a dealer though since the techs are obligated to follow the wsm which will usually end in module replacement.

Looking forward to the progress in other areas though!

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OP
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Thread Starter #53
The car is close to being almost done! Read on for some updates:

Suspension/Steering
I thought that after taking the control arm off, things couldn't get any worse... well, I was wrong. I had to battle very hard with the inner tie rod but I finally got it replaced. FYI the inner tie rod that came with the car doesn't have those flat side so the regular inner tie rod tools you'll find for rent at your local auto parts store will NOT work. You need to grab one of those that slides over the tie rod end and tighten the collar. After that, you can grab a 3/8 drive extension bar and get it loose with almost not effort.

If you don't own one, I seriously encourage every one to get one for like $12-20. No need to rent a tool and you can use it on any kind of tie rod end plus there is no need to get the boot or outer tie rod off first since you can slide it over those two saving you lots of time. My tie rods and bolts were so rusted that it took me hours during several days to get everything off and replaced because the tie rod would keep spinning. Getting the new control arm on the car was also not easy but with some help from a c clamp, it was fairly straight forward. I also was not able to cramp one of those stupid CV boot clamps, there's simply not enough room anywhere for the special pliers to open up enough for me to get a good grip so I just used a zip tie for now... I'll end up getting something more permanent but for now, that is it.

So there you go! New inner, outer tie rods and a new control arm on the right side done.

Rear Glass
The rear glass just got replaced so all I need to do to the rear is get that spoiler installed and we'll be good to go.

Front End
  1. Headlights: Got a pair headlights from eBay with bulbs and shipped for just under $190 and are working great.
  2. Front Bumper cover: I got a new OEM bumper for just $420. I was also able to get it in place and it's fitting very nicely so far! I'll end up painting it to match but for now I think I need to prioritize the ABS module fix before I spend any more money on the looks.
  3. Hood: Ordered a new one and should be here tomorrow.
Other misc. stuff... I still need wheels/tires. I'm so mad at myself for not realizing that the front wheels wouldn't clear the front calipers so I'm in desperate need to find new ones for the winter season. I also have the remote for the air suspension coming in the mail tomorrow so I'll be able to finally lift up the car! After these few things are done and the hood is on the car, the car will be going to Ford for the ABS and other electrical issues. Hoping I don't end up paying thousands on diagnosing the issue....

Below are pictures of how the car looks like right now and the inner tie rods for comparison :)
 


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OP
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Location
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Thread Starter #56
Great to see you are still carrying on with this! Are you rebuilding all on your free time?

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Yeah! First time rebuilding a car and everything is being done in my garage on my free time :)
 


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Metro Detroit
#57
What wheels were on the car, aftermarket or Ford. If they were Ford there is a wheel shop the Detroit area that specializes in restoring factory wheels that my dealer referred me to when I was looking for 16 inch wheels. While the Ford rims were NOT cheap you could get a single vehicle specific wheel from them, even the brand new 17 inch black something or other that are optional on our ST. The name of this outfit is Detroit Wheel and Tire and the web link is https://www.detroitwheelandtire.com/ford/fiesta/2018.html

If you need aftermarket you might get lucky with Summit Racing, Jegs, or you could spend BIG Bucks and check out the wheels on Mountunes web site. Another more time consuming option would be to contact the brake manufacturer and get a wheel template and spend time going from shop to shop checking what is in stock for fit. BTW, grew up in the Akron area and have been shopping at Summit since the 70's. They are a great and trustworthy source for classic older Hot Rod parts but do carry some of the modern stuff and a really large selection of wheels. It's where I got my 16 x 7 rims and the look great on my FiST.
 


OP
F
Messages
71
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57
Location
Minneapolis, MN, USA
Thread Starter #58
What wheels were on the car, aftermarket or Ford. If they were Ford there is a wheel shop the Detroit area that specializes in restoring factory wheels that my dealer referred me to when I was looking for 16 inch wheels. While the Ford rims were NOT cheap you could get a single vehicle specific wheel from them, even the brand new 17 inch black something or other that are optional on our ST. The name of this outfit is Detroit Wheel and Tire and the web link is https://www.detroitwheelandtire.com/ford/fiesta/2018.html

If you need aftermarket you might get lucky with Summit Racing, Jegs, or you could spend BIG Bucks and check out the wheels on Mountunes web site. Another more time consuming option would be to contact the brake manufacturer and get a wheel template and spend time going from shop to shop checking what is in stock for fit. BTW, grew up in the Akron area and have been shopping at Summit since the 70's. They are a great and trustworthy source for classic older Hot Rod parts but do carry some of the modern stuff and a really large selection of wheels. It's where I got my 16 x 7 rims and the look great on my FiST.
Aftermarket and I'm not a big fan of them so they pretty much need to go. I could go the new route but I'm hoping I can find a used set that already has tires on them to save money. The wheels on the car are 17s and honestly, I just need a quick set to get me through the winter so I don't care about looks or anything, just fitment. Next year, once winter goes by I'll start looking for better looking wheels :) I'll check out those places though. If the right deal shows up, I won't say no anyway...
 


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