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Removing brake rotors 2016 fiSt

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Location
las vegas
#1
Hi, this is my first time changing my brakes on my st and i literally cannot remove my brake calipers. can someone please help me im a single dad and this is my daily i have to get it back on this road and this is setting me back so much. i’ve been banging on it with a hammer i have new pads and rotors i just cannot for the life of me get mine off
 


green_henry

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#2
Do you have Liquid Wrench or any other penetrating oil? I would spray that around the lug holes in the rotor and tap on the rotor gently with a mallet to help it seep in. Give it a few minutes and then give the rotor a few taps from behind. Just make sure to remove any remaining oil with brake cleaner when you're done.
 


OP
V
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Location
las vegas
Thread Starter #3
i’m going to try that i have brake/clutch cleaner that’s it but i’ve sprayed the middle i’ll spray around the areas with the lug holes im just kind of at my wits end
 


green_henry

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#4
Cleaner might help, but I kinda doubt it because it dries out too fast. If you don't have a true penetrant, CLP (cleaner-lubricant-protectant) or WD-40 might work; you can usually get it (WD-40) at the supermarket if the other stores are closed.
 


TyphoonFiST

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Rich-fizzield
#5
Did you remove the caliper and caliper bracket? Its two bolts on the backside for each. These need to come off before anything to get the rotor off. Then i would put one lug nut back on the wheel stud...Loosely..not fully tightened down. Then proceed to hit the old rotor from the back side with a hammer of your choice[driving]
 


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LilPartyBox

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NYC
#9
I have a small 4lb sledge hammer that i use whenever i run into this. A rubber mallet isn't enough in some cases. Once the caliper carrier is removed, pick a side of the rotor (left or right), NOT the hub. The 4lb sledge will do most of the work...With all you got, whack it from the FRONT directly on the rotor surface - i assume you're replacing the rotors anyway. Try to hit it as close to the edge as you can while still making full contact with the sledge. Hitting it like this creates a leverage of sorts and it will pull away on the opposite side.

When replacing the rotor, coat the inside of the hub with anti-seize to prevent this from ever happening again. I also coat the outside of the hub to keep the wheels from sticking as well. I live in the northeast where this was a real problem. I only deal with it now on cars i just bought or on friend/family cars. On my personal fleet, none of them have stuck since i've been coating the hubs.

THE PROBLEM SOLVER:
Stanley FATMAX 4 lbs. Engineering Hammer FMHT51297 - The Home Depot
 


dhminer

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Burlington, NC, USA
#11
is that a euphemism?
Not at all. I literally beat the shit out of them with a dead blow hammer because they were seized so badly. I also didn’t replace my factory brake pads or rotors for 6 years because all my driving was interstate thus never used the brakes.
 


CSM

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Cleveland, OH, USA
#12
Not at all. I literally beat the shit out of them with a dead blow hammer because they were seized so badly. I also didn’t replace my factory brake pads or rotors for 6 years because all my driving was interstate thus never used the brakes.
this is what I had to do a couple years back. Overnight soak in PB BLaster, then just patience with a bunch of strikes with a weighted hammer
 




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