I have no problem cutting up cars to do whatever mods I want but not many willing do some of the things I do
I would dial in all the negative camber at the bolt then move the top the final amount you want and see where you can cut just enough to allow access to reduce it a bit as needed, street, autocross, track, etc....it is better to gain negative camber at the bolt than the top of the strut.
In my particular case I could not use the bolts, had to go full positive there to clear the 9" wide wheels so I set that, wedges used so prevent slip then drilled new mounting holes for the strut tops and slotted the hole so the camber adjusters fit and I can turn them. I just run one setting but my car does not get a lot of miles, no commuting, etc so -2.5 front camber is a nice all around street/track/autocross setup I can just leave as is.
I do not like to much front camber on a FWD car as it can reduce grip, acceleration and braking and lead to instability under braking as well.
I was considering camber plates for fine tuning but my setup is right on for both sides so leaving as is since camber plates generally means running shorter springs for the same ride height, depending on the design of the struts. I have 8k front swifts on BC and only about 1/4" on height adjustment, if I wanted a really low height, which I never do as it does not work well on most cars for handling and a hassle on the street, I would have to get shorter springs as the 8k are stiff enough to cause using up almost all the BC height adjustment. On the rear I had to pull one lock ring off the adjusters to get low enough.
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OK, back to the story line here, if you want to be able to adjust them but not drill a big hole perhaps there is enough material to make slots for the adjustment bolts. That would take much more time to mark, drill the ends of the slots then cut out the rest but might work out and would look cooler